Guide to Rural England - Cumbria

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Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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e Kirkland

Kirkstile

Castleton West Woodburn

Newcastleton

Auldgirth

Stannersburn

Corrie

Dunscore

Risdale

Langholm

Lockerbie

Lochmaben

Cambo

Bellingham

Kershopefoot

Locharbriggs Newbridge Torthorwald

Dumfries

Canonbie

Waterbeck Dalton

Islesteps Springholm

Powfoot

Humshaugh

Longtown

Greenhead Newtown

Todhills

Langley

Halton Lea Gate

Kirkbride

Mainsriddle

Newton Arlosh

Silloth

Colvend

Catton

Whitfield

Carlisle

Kirkbampton

Corbridge

Hexham

Haltwhistle

Brampton

Cardurnock

Kirkbean

Palnackie Rockcliffe

Burgh by Sands

Glasson

Wall

Gilsland

Smithfield

Gretna

Annan

Dalbeattie

Stanfordham

Chollerford

Kirkcambeck

Clarencefield

New Abbey

Colwell

Roadhead Easton

Chapelknowe

Bankend

Glencaple

Haugh of Urr

Wark

Catlowdy

Evertown

Eaglesfield

Carrutherstown

Crocketford

Rowanburn

Warwick Bridge Allendale Town

Knarsdale

Wetheral

Blanchland

Auchencairn

Wigton

Abbey Town

Beckfoot

Cumrew

Dalston Thursby

Edmundbyers

Wreay

Alston

Waverton Armathwaite Rosley Allonby

Lazonby

Uldale

Westgate Eastgate

St. John's Chapel

Unthank Langwathby

Flimby

Stanhope

Wear Head Melmerby

Crosby Blindcrake

Wolsingham

Bassenthwaite

Cockermouth

Seaton

Greystoke

Workington

Penrith

Mungrisdale Thornthwaite Pardshaw

Harrington

Whitehaven

Hackthorpe Howtown

Rowrah Thirlspot

Buttermere

Patterdale

Shap

Barnard Castle

Brough

Warcop

Great Asby

Orton

Boot

Bowes

Soulby

Kirkby Stephen Nateby

Tebay Langthwaite

Little Langdale

Ravenstonedale

Troutbeck

Thwaite

Hawkshead Staveley

Seathwaite Ravenglass

Ulpha

Coniston

Grizedale

Broughton- Blawith in-Furness

Bootle

Reeth

Keld

Windermere

Eskdale

Holmrook

CUM BRIA

Ambleside

Egglestone

Romaldkirk

Bampton

Grasmere Elterwater

Wellington

Seascale

Hilton

Winton Wasdale Head

Nether Wasdale

Calder Bridge

Appleby-inWestmorland

Glenridding

Rosthwaite Borrowdale

Cleater Moor Egremont

Middletonin-Teesdale

Pooley Bridge

Watermillock

Loweswater

Newbiggin

Temple Sowerby

Troutbeck

Keswick Braithwaite

Distington

St. Bees

Rookhope

Garrigill

Sebergham

Caldbeck Bothel

Maryport

Nenthead

Southwaite

Aspatria

Hayton

Allenheads

Crosthwaite

Newby bridge

Grayrigg

Sedbergh

Kendal

Askrigg

Hawes

Levens

Carperby

Dent Carlton

Barbon Kirkby-in-Furness

Millom

Ulverston

Haverigg Askam in Furness

Bardsea

Dalton-in-Furness

Cark

Milnthorpe

Cartmel

Kirkby Lonsdale

Arnside

GrangeoverSands

Buckden Silverdale

Tunstall

Ingleton Arncliffe

Baycliff

Bolton-le-Sands

Vickerstown Biggar

Horton in Ribblesdale

Carnforth

Barrow-in-Furness Rampside

Over Kellet Wray

Morecambe Caton

Heysham

Cray

Lancaster

High Bentham

Kettlewell

Austwick Giggleswick

Threshfield

Grassington

Settle

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

LOCATOR MAP

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Bassenthwaite Lake pg 81 Burgh by Sands pg 115 Calder Bridge pg 59 Cleator Moor pg 63 Crosby Garrett pg 101 Crummock Water pg 81 Eden Valley pg 99 Ennerdale Bridge pg 63 Eskdale Green pg 53 Great Asby pg 105 Great Langdale pg 49 Great Ormside pg 104 Great Urswick pg 39 Hardknott Pass pg 53 Hesket Newmarket pg 78 High Lorton pg 67 Holme St Cuthbert pg 70 Kirkby Lonsdale pg 5 Kirkby Stephen pg 99 Little Salkeld pg 87 Low Lorton pg 67 Low Row pg 116 Matterdale End pg 79 Mawbray Hayrigg pg 70 Near Sawrey pg 50 Newby Bridge pg 27 Newton Arlosh pg 74 North Stainmore pg 105 Piel Island pg 44 Pooley Bridge pg 96 Santon Bridge pg 61 St Bees pg 63 Temple Sowerby pg 107 Troutbeck Bridge pg 23 Walney Island pg 44 Abbeytown pg 73 Allonby pg 69 Alston pg 89 Ambleside pg 28 Appleby-inWestmorland pg 101 Armathwaite pg 86 Arnside pg 9 Askham pg 92 Aspatria pg 72 Bampton pg 93 Bardsea pg 39 Barrow-in-Furness pg 40 Beckfoot pg 70 Beetham pg 8

Bewcastle pg 113 Boot pg 53 Borrowdale pg 80 Bowness-on-Solway pg 115 Bowness-onWindermere pg 24 Braithwaite pg 81 Bridekirk pg 67 Brigham pg 68 Brockhole pg 28 Brough pg 105 Brougham pg 91 Broughton-in-Furnesspg 42 Burneside pg 14 Buttermere pg 80 Caldbeck pg 78 Cark-in-Cartmel pg 34 Carlisle pg 107 Cartmel pg 35 Cockermouth pg 64 Coniston pg 45 Crosby-on-Eden pg 111 Dacre pg 96 Dalemain pg 95 Dalton-in-Furness pg 41 Dearham pg 72 Dent pg 18 Drigg pg 58 Dufton pg 104 Eaglesfield pg 67 Edenhall pg 87 Egremont pg 60 Flookburgh pg 34 Garsdale pg 18 Gilsland pg 117 Gleaston pg 44 Glenridding pg 97 Gosforth pg 59 Grange-over-Sands pg 33 Grasmere pg 30 Greystoke pg 97 Grizedale pg 52 Hale pg 7 Haverthwaite pg 38 Hawkshead pg 49 Hutton-in-the-Forest pg 98 Ivegill pg 114 Kendal pg 9 Kentmere pg 23 Keswick pg 75

Kirkoswald Lakeside Langwathby Levens Lindale Lindal-in-Furness Linskeldfield Longtown Loweswater Lowther Maryport Melmerby Millom Milnthorpe Orton Outhgill Patterdale Penrith Ravenglass Ravenstonedale Rydal Seascale Seathwaite Sedbergh Sedgwick Shap Silecroft Silloth Skinburness Stainton Staveley Swarthmoor Talkin Thirlmere Threlkeld Troutbeck Uldale Ulverston Warcop Watermillock Wetheral Whitehaven Wigton Windermere Winster Winton Witherslack Workington Wreay

pg 89 pg 27 pg 87 pg 14 pg 33 pg 40 pg 67 pg 111 pg 81 pg 93 pg 71 pg 89 pg 57 pg 9 pg 94 pg 100 pg 97 pg 83 pg 54 pg 100 pg 30 pg 58 pg 53 pg 16 pg 14 pg 94 pg 57 pg 70 pg 74 pg 97 pg 14 pg 39 pg 117 pg 79 pg 79 pg 23 pg 77 pg 35 pg 104 pg 97 pg 113 pg 61 pg 73 pg 19 pg 25 pg 100 pg 27 pg 68 pg 114

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

Towns and Villages

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Almost exactly one third of Cumbria’s 2636 square miles lies within the boundaries of the Lake District National Park, England’s largest National Park. It was created in 1951 to protect the area from “inappropriate development and to provide access to the land for public enjoyment”. Within its boundaries can be found some of the most dramatic scenery in England, including the highest mountain in the country, Scafell Pike (3205ft), and the largest and deepest lakes, Windermere and Wast Water respectively, along with another 14 lakes (although apart from Bassenthwaite they are called ‘meres’ or ‘waters’). Despite the huge influx of visitors, most do not venture far from the main tourist ‘honeypots’, so it’s still easy to find the peaceful glades and windswept, isolated fells celebrated by the Lake Poets, Wordsworth, Coleridge and Southey. Between them, this lyrical trio transformed the pervading 18th century perception of the most northwesterly corner of England as an intimidating wilderness into an appreciation of its majestic scenery. The southeastern corner of the Park is Cumbria’s best known and most popular area, with the main resort towns of Windermere, Bowness-on-Windermere and Ambleside set around Windermere itself. Lying between the lakes and mountains of the Lake District and the sandy estuaries of Morecambe Bay, the Cartmel and Furness Peninsulas are areas of gentle moorland, craggy headlands, scattered woodlands and vast expanses of sand. The arrival of the railways in the mid 19th century saw the development of genteel resorts such as Grange-over-Sands overlooking the treacherous sands of Morecambe Bay. Grange is still an elegant little town and has been spared the indignity of vast amusement parks and rows of slot machines, retaining its character as a quiet and pleasant holiday centre. The North Cumbrian coast, from Workington in the south to the Solway Firth in the north, is

one of the least known parts of this beautiful county but it certainly has a lot to offer. It is an area rich in heritage, with a network of quiet country lanes, small villages, old ports and seaside resorts. The coast’s largest town, Workington, on the site of a Roman fort, was once a busy port, prospering on coal, iron and shipping. It later became famous for fine-quality steel and, though its importance has declined, it is still the country’s largest producer of railway tracks. Further up the coast is Maryport, again a port originally built by the Romans. A short distance inland lies Cockermouth on the edge of the Lake District National Park, a pretty market town with some elegant Georgian buildings. In one of these, the town’s most famous son, the poet William Wordsworth, was born in 1770. The northernmost stretch of coastline, around the Solway Firth, is an area of tiny villages with fortified towers standing as mute witness to the border struggles of long ago. These villages were the haunt of smugglers, wildfowlers and half-net fishermen. But what is particularly special about this coastline is its rich birdlife. For more than 350 years the area around Carlisle was known as the Debatable Lands, a lawless region where the feared Border Reivers sacked and plundered at will. Every winter, when their own food stocks were almost depleted, armed gangs from across the border would ride southwards to seize the cattle and sheep of their more prosperous neighbours. Stealing and murdering, they wreaked havoc in this area and almost every village would have had a fortified structure, usually a pele tower, where the inhabitants and their animals could hide safely. This is also the county of Hadrian’s Wall, the most important monument built in Britain by the Romans; many stretches of the wall are still visible, and Birdoswald and other centres give an excellent insight into Roman border life.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

Cumbria and the Lake District

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A Devil’s Bridge A Swine Market A St Mary’s Church I Victorian Fair

One fine day in 1875, John Ruskin came to Kirkby Lonsdale and stood on the stone terrace overlooking the valley of the River Lune. It was, he declared, “one of the loveliest scenes in England, therefore in the world.” He was equally enthusiastic about the busy little market town - “I do not know in all my country,” he continued, “a place more naturally divine than Kirkby Lonsdale.” Ruskin had been inspired to visit the town after seeing Turner’s painting of that view, and Turner himself had come in 1816 on the recommendation of William Wordsworth. All three of them made a point of going to see

the Devil’s Bridge over the Lune, a handsome, lofty structure of three fluted arches reputedly built by Satan himself in three days. According to legend, an old woman, unable to cross the deep river with her cattle, had asked the Devil to build her a bridge. He agreed but demanded in return the soul of the first creature to cross, but his evil plan was thwarted by Cumbrian cunning. The old woman threw a bun across the bridge that was retrieved by her dog and thus she cheated the Devil of a human soul. Kirkby’s Main Street is a picturesque jumble of houses spanning several centuries, with intriguing passages and alleyways skittering off in all directions, all of them worth exploring. It’s still a pleasure to stroll along the narrow streets bearing names such as Jingling Lane, past the 16th-century

SIENNA CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY 37 Main Street, Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria LA6 2AH Tel: 01524 272121 website: www.sienna-jewellery.com There’s no need to head for the big cities to find a wide choice of quality modern jewellery. Located in the heart of the delightful old market town of Kirkby Lonsdale, Sienna Contemporary Jewellery offers a dazzling range of unique and beautiful pieces at sensible prices. Here you will find exquisite items crafted from many different materials - from silver and gold to titanium, stainless steel and aluminium, leather and rubber, and even cellulose acetate and glass. Semi-precious stones, pearls and agates are used with these materials to create some wonderful pendants, necklaces, rings and earrings. Men are also well -catered for with a range of contemporary bangles, rings and cuff-links on. The designers featured are as various as the materials, ranging from the large German companies Boccia and Unique Jewelry to individuals such as Jan Huntley who lives near Kirkby Lonsdale. Other British designers include Pistachio, Lesley Strickland and David Scott Walker. Sienna also stocks three top watch brands - Bocca Titanium from Germany; a.b.art, engineered by the Swiss; and Mondaine Swiss railway watches. The shop is open from 10am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday; and from 11am to 5pm on Sunday.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

Kirkby Lonsdale

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Located in the heart of the delightful market town of Kirkby Lonsdale, Ooh-La-La! always presents a very enticing window display of stylish garments and accessories. Created by Julia and Robert Treeby who have adopted the motto “Nice things are made of this”, the shop stocks an irresistible range of quality items. You’ll find luxury Italian handbags and gloves; some dazzling jewellery, genuine leather jewellery cases by Dulwich to grace any refined ladies dressing table, an extensive range of watches including designer and fashion choices from Avia, Ellesse & Wingmaster, cufflinks, high fashion coats, shoes, hosiery and scarves - and much, much more, all offering the hottest looks that move from the catwalk to the street. In essence, Ooh-La-La has everything you need to achieve that sexy look with attitude at unbelievably low prices! The friendly, helpful staff have a keen eye and knowledge of cutting edge fashion and can help and advise your choices. Also on sale at Ooh-La-La! are some striking prints by local artists. The shop is open every day from 10am to 5pm and there is sister shops in Kendal and Hawkshead as well as a small store in the Tourist Information Centre at Hawkshead selling a range of bags, accessories and shoes. www.k70-oohlala.co.uk online shop.

CHURCHMOUSE CHEESES 4 Market Street, Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria LA6 2AU Tel: 01524 273005 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.churchmousecheeses.com The winner of the “Best Independent Cheese Shop in Britain 2007 award, sponsored by Dairy Crest and The Grocer, Churchmouse Cheeses had an unusual start. Owners John and Julie Natlacen had to cancel their honeymoon when bride-to-be Julie broke her leg. The only suitable getaway seemed to be a few days in the small Cumbrian village of Beetham. Whilst on a day trip to nearby Kirkby Lonsdale, they spotted an empty 18th century listed building and it was here that their dream began. John quit his job in the City as a financial advisor, spent a blissful three months travelling around Cumbria sourcing quality produce and opened Churchmouse Cheeses in September 2002. Their elegant shop is now a splendid showcase for up to 120 cheeses, 80% of which are British. They include Blacksticks Blue, Shorrocks Black Bombs, Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheeses, Golden Cross goat’s cheese, Cumberland Farmhouse, Swaledale, Ribblesdale, Epoisses, Brie de Meaux, Picos Blue and many, many more. The shop also sells traditional hand-patted butter, farmhouse cakes, chutneys and pickles, deli meats, antipasto, olives and a wide selection of Cumbrian farmhouse produce.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

K70 - OOH-LA-LA! 52 Main Street, Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria LA6 2AJ Tel: 01524 273006 e-mail: [email protected]

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Located in the square of the delightful market town of Kirkby Lonsdale, Abrahams has been attracting discerning buyers for the last six years since it was first established by husband and wife team Mark and Anne Carney. Named after the owners son, Abraham, the shop stocks a wide range of beautiful clothes, shoes and fine accessories. Anne has previously worked in visual merchandising and display so the shop is refreshingly different with some imaginative displays and features. Some of the ranges stocked at Abrahams are: Barbour, Hackett, Gant, Hobbs, Gardeur, Olymp, and Casa Moda. Beautiful bench made shoes from Cheaney. Mens grooming products by Geo. F. Trumper, and for ladies we offer skincare products by Dr. Hauschka and Burts Bees. French fragrance house ‘Creed’ is another rare delight not to be missed. A visit to Abrahams is highly recommended and a wonderful experience.

weavers’ cottages in Fairbank, across the Swine Market with its 600-year-old cross where traders have displayed their wares every Thursday for more than 700 years, past ancient hostelries to the even more venerable St Mary’s Church with its noble Norman doorway and massive pillars. In the churchyard, a late Georgian gazebo looks across to the enchanting view of the Lune Valley painted by Turner. The town has three times been national winner of the Britain in Bloom competition and also attracts thousands of visitors for its Victorian Fair, held on the first full weekend in September, and again in December for the Yuletide procession through streets ablaze with coloured lights and decorated Christmas trees.

Around Kirkby Lonsdale HALE 7 miles W of Kirkby Lonsdale off the A6 E Lakeland Wildlife Oasis

This tiny village surrounded by woodland and close to the Lancashire border is home to the Lakeland Wildlife Oasis where a wide range of animals and birds can be seen and a handson exhibition tells the evolutionary story. Visitors can drape a snake around their neck, exchange inquisitive glances with a ruffled lemur or a meerkat squatting on its haunches, and admire creatures rarely seen in captivity, such as flying foxes and poison arrow frogs.

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Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

ABRAHAMS Nine Market Square, Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria LA6 2AN Tel: 015242 72299 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.abrahams-store.co.uk

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was discovered inside the building at the base of a pillar. Although badly damaged during the Civil War, when its windows were smashed and effigies broken, a glass fragment depicting Henry IV in an ermine robe has survived the centuries. The village also has an unusual 19thcentury Post Office with a distinctive black and white studded door. Just outside the village stands Heron Corn BEETHAM Mill, a restored and working watermill with 8 miles W of Kirkby Lonsdale on the A6 fully operational grinding machinery. A fine A Church of St Michael and All Angels example of a traditional 18th-century corn A Post Office A Heron Corn Mill mill that served the Westmorland farming B Museum of Paper Making area, the mill ceased trading as recently as the 1950s. Visitors to the mill can see an At the heart of this village of grey limestone cottages and cobbled forecourts is the Church exhibition about its history and view the milling process. Also within the mill is the of St Michael and All Angels, approached Museum of Paper Making, which was through a pergola of rambling roses. During established in 1988 to commemorate 500 years restoration work in the 1830s, a hoard of of paper-making in England. The displays around 100 coins minted in Norman times

KITRIDDING FARM SHOP, TEAROOM & GIFT SHOP Kitridding Farm, Old Town, nr Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria LA6 2QA Tel: 01539 567484 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.kitridding.co.uk Kitridding Farm Shop, Tearoom & Gift Shop provides a friendly and peaceful environment where customers can choose from a whole range of high quality, locally produced food and drinks. Kitridding Farm, on the edge of the Cumbrian fells, has been farmed by the Lambert family for more than 50 years. As with many other upland farms, they decided to diversify by marketing their own beef, lamb and pork. They started in 1999 by doing this through local Farmer’s Markets and mail order and then opened their shop on the farm in May 2002. As well as preparing fresh cuts of their own meats, they also offer a wide range of home-made sausages and burgers. In the tearoom they use as much of their own farm produce and other carefully selected local products as possible. Their All Day Breakfast is famous and on Sunday lunchtimes you should certainly book ahead to be sure of sampling the traditional Sunday roast. After your meal, browse around the Kitridding Gift Shop which stocks some beautiful gifts, cards and crafts. A new attraction, scheduled to open in 2010, will be a 4-acre lake and lakeside walk.The farm shop, tearoom and gift shop are open from 10am to 5pm, Thursday to Sunday.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

The tropical hall is the home of numerous free-flying birds, bats and butterflies, and other exhibits range from leaf-cutter ants to pygmy marmosets. The Oasis was established in 1991 by Dave and Jo Marsden, who were keepers at Chester Zoo before setting up this popular family attraction, which is open throughout the year.

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MILNTHORPE 8 miles W of Kirkby Lonsdale on the A6 Just north of the Lancashire border, Milnthorpe has been a market town since the 14th century. It originally flourished as a port on the River Bela, but the harbour has long since silted up. A small folly tower on St Andrew’s Hill was built in the 1830s by the architect George Webster as a means of occupying his idle hours between restoring the town’s church.

ARNSIDE 10 miles W of Kirkby Lonsdale off the B5282 E Arnside Knott A Arnside Tower

This quiet town on the Kent Estuary, with its short but elegant promenade, was once a busy port with its own shipbuilding and sea-salt refining industry. The estuary silted up during the 19th century, a process accelerated by construction of the striking 50-arch railway viaduct, so the port declined. Today, it is a favourite retirement destination and a peaceful holiday resort. Around Arnside itself, there is a wonderful choice of country walks, particularly over and around Arnside Knott. This limestone headland, now a nature reserve rich in old woods and wild flowers, is part of the Arnside and Silverdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Knott comes from the Saxon word meaning rounded hill, which, in this case, rises 521 feet above sea level and gives extensive views of the Kendal Lakeland fells, the Pennines and the

southern Cumbrian coast. There is a beautiful path around the headland and along the shoreline past Blackstone Point. Inland, and found down a quiet lane, is the ruined Arnside Tower, one of the many pele towers that were built in the area in the 14th century. This particular tower dates from the 1370s and it may have been part of the chain of towers designed to form a ring of protection around Morecambe Bay.

Kendal F Kendal Bowmen A Kendal Castle I Westmorland Shopping Centre I Elephant Yard I K Village Factory Shopping F Kendal Black Drop I Lakes Leisure Centre H Brewery Arts Centre B Museum of Lakeland Life and Industry H Abbot Hall Art Gallery A Parish Church B Museum of Natural History and Archaeology G Alfred Wainwright H Quaker Tapestry Exhibition

A survey a few years ago by Strathclyde University revealed that the highest quality of life of any town in England was to be found in Kendal, the ‘capital’ of South Lakeland. That assessment came as no surprise to the

Castle

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

illustrate paper-making ancient and modern by various means, and there are occasional demonstrations of making paper by hand.

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these men who clinched the English victories at Agincourt and Crécy and fought so decisively against the Scots at the Battle of Flodden Field in 1513. Kendal has royal connections too. The Parr family lived at Kendal Castle until 1483 - their most famous descendant was Catherine Parr, the last of Henry VIII’s six wives. Today, the castle’s gaunt ruins stand high on a hill overlooking the town, with most of the castle wall and one of the towers still standing, and two underground vaults still complete. Castle Hill is a popular place for walking and picnicking, and in summer the hillside is smothered with wild flowers. From the hilltop there are spectacular views and a panorama panel here assists in identifying the distant fells. Visitors wandering around the town cannot help but notice the numerous alleyways, locally known as yards, that are such a distinctive

K70 - OOH-LA-LA! 44 Highgate, Kendal, Cumbria LA9 2SX Tel: 01539 736492 e-mail: [email protected] website: k70-ohhlala.co.uk Located in the heart of Kendal town centre, opposite the Town Hall, Ooh-La-La! is dedicated to ensuring the hottest looks move from the catwalk to the high street in the blink of an eye. Put simply, owners Julia and Rob Treeby try to deliver what you want now! When designing their clothing, attention to detail is high on the agenda. They create designs that love female form so that you can achieve that sexy look with attitude at unbelievably low prices. The shop also stocks a range of accessories. Handbags and purses are by ‘LYDC - “the most beautiful handbag brand in London”. LYDC connects the inspiration of London’s youthful romantic designers with cosmopolitan lifestyles and is definitely the handbag brand that every woman will fall in love with. You’ll also find fashion jewellery and Bangle watches to complement Ooh-La-La!’s renowned fashion footwear range. Other popular lines in stock include strikingly different clothing by Club L and K70; a selection of clocks by the London Clock Company and designer watches for ladies and gents by Ellisse, Henley, Avia, Versedge and Wingmaster. Ooh-La-La! is open from 10am to 5.30pm, Monday to Saturday.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

residents of this lively, bustling town, which was once one of the most important woollen textile centres of northern England. The Kendal woollen industry was founded in 1331 by John Kemp, a Flemish weaver. It flourished and sustained the town for almost 600 years until the development of competition from the huge West Riding of Yorkshire mills during the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century. The town’s motto, Pannus mihi panis - Wool is my Bread - indicates the extent to which the economy of Kendal depended on the wool from the flocks of Herdwick sheep that roamed the surrounding fells. The fame of the cloth was so great that Shakespeare refers to archers clad in Kendal Green cloth in his play Henry IV. These archers were the famous Kendal Bowmen whose lethal longbows were made from local yew trees culled from the nearby limestone crags. It was

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Holy Trinity Church, Kendal

opium and alcohol”, Kendal Black Drop was a favourite tipple of the poets Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Thomas de Quincey. Kendal’s excellent sporting facilities include the Lakes Leisure Centre, which offers a one-week tourist pass, the Lakeland Climbing Centre, which is one of the highest indoor climbing facilities in the country, Kendal ski slope, two local golf courses and a driving

KENDAL FISHERIES 28 Stramongate, Kendal, Cumbria LA9 4BN Tel: 01539 719888 Regarded by many as the best traditional fishmonger in the Lake District, Kendal Fisheries is a family-run business whose members have many years experience buying and selling the best quality fresh fish, seafood and game. They visit Fleetwood daily, to choose the best and freshest line-caught fish. The huge choice ranges from wild bass to red bream; from scallops to squid. The shop has its own smokery for haddock, mackerel and salmon. As traditional fishmongers, Kendal Fisheries provide a filleting, skinning and de-boning service for their fresh wet fish and are always willing to offer friendly advice on cooking and preparation - there are many free recipes available in the shop. Sea bass baked with honey and ginger; or honey-glazed scallops wrapped in Parma ham are just a couple of them. The shop also sells 1lb packets of fish pie mix, as well as a variety of takeaway ready meals. If you’re not quite sure about anything, just ask - the staff are passionate about fish and seafood. Talk to Nick the manager and you’ll soon pick up his enthusiasm about fish.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Guide to Rural England CUMBRIA

feature of Kendal. An integral part of the old town, they are a reminder that the people of Kendal used to live under a constant threat of raids by the Scots. The yards were a line of defence against these attacks, an area that could be secured by sealing the one small entrance, with the families and livestock safe inside. Shoppers are spoilt for choice in Kendal. In addition to all the familiar High Street names, the Westmorland Shopping Centre and Elephant Yard, both in the heart of the town, and the K Village Factory Shopping complex on the outskirts, make it easy to shop until you drop. One local product well worth sampling is Kendal Mint Cake, a tasty, sugary confection, which is cherished by climbers and walkers for its instant infusion of energy. Another once-popular local medication, Kendal Black Drop, is no longer available. “A more than commonly strong mixture of

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New Shambles is a 16th century cobbled lane in the heart of Kendal which is lined with an array of fascinating specialist shops.

KENDAL UPHOLSTERY Tel: 01539 739343 website: www.kendalupholstery.com Kendal Upholstery offers a range of traditional upholstery courses and workshops alongside a full restoration service for fine upholstered furniture. The shop also sells an interesting range of decorative items for the home.

RETICULE TEXTILE CRAFTS Tel: 01539 729947 website: www.reticule-bags.co.uk At Reticule Textile Crafts (01539 729947; www.reticule-bags.co.uk) you’ll find more than 300 patchwork fabrics along with specialist textile craft books, ribbons, cross stitch kits and threads. Reticule also offers textile courses such as creative machining and bag making.

KAN HEALTH FOODS Tel: 01539 721190 website: www.kanhealthfoods.co.uk Nearby, Kan Health Foods stocks an extensive range of wholesome foods including organic and Fairtrade items and owners Shaar and Sue can offer sound, helpful and practical advice for following a healthier life style.

MARSDENS THE BUTCHERS Tel: 01539 720033 Good quality food is also on sale at Marsdens the Butchers which has been in business for more than 50 years. All the meat on sale is sourced from local farms and in addition to regular cuts Marsdens also sells more than 10 varieties of its own sausages as well as pies made to special recipes.

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NEW SHAMBLES Kendal, Cumbria LA9 4TS

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Walter Sickert, Ben Nicholson, Lucien Freud and Bridget Riley. The Museum of Natural History and Archaeology, founded in 1796, is one of the oldest museums in the country. Based on the collection first exhibited by William Todhunter in the late 18th century, the museum takes visitors on a journey from prehistoric times, a trip that Brewery Art Centre, Kendal includes an interactive exhibit telling the story of Kendal Castle. range. Drama, music and the visual arts are The famous fellwalker and writer, Alfred presented in a regularly changing programme of exhibitions, live music, theatre productions Wainwright, whose handwritten guides to the Lakeland hills will be found in the backpack and craft workshops at the Brewery Arts of any serious walker, was honorary clerk at Centre. The Centre also houses Kendal’s the museum between 1945 and 1974. Many of cinema, which presents a mixture of his original drawings are on display. mainstream, classic and art house films. The complex also contains a restaurant overlooking Adjacent to the elegant Georgian Abbot a garden, a bar and café. Hall and Museum is the 13th-century Parish Church of Kendal, “the Church of the A number of interesting museums and galleries are located in Kendal. The Museum Angels”, one of the widest in England, with five aisles and a peal of 10 bells. of Lakeland Life and Industry, which is themed around traditional rural trades of the Perhaps the most unusual attraction here is region, and Abbot Hall Art Gallery form the Quaker Tapestry Exhibition at the part of a complex within Abbot Hall park. Friends Meeting House in the centre of the The museum, in re-created farmhouse rooms, town. This unique exhibition of 77 panels of contains a wide variety of exhibits, including community embroidery explores Quaker Arthur Ransome memorabilia, craft history from the 17th century to the present workshops, a Victorian street scene, artefacts day. These colourful, beautifully crafted from the Arts and Crafts movement, nautical tapestries are the work of some 4000 people, displays and Captain Flint’s Locker, a pirate aged between four and 90, from 15 countries. A activity area for children and families. The Quaker costume display, embroidery gallery, in an elegant Georgian villa, houses a demonstrations, workshops and courses, and a collection of society portraits by the locally large-screen colour video combine to provide a born George Romney and watercolour scenes fascinating insight into the Quaker movement by Ruskin and Turner, while the 20th century and its development. The centre also has a and contemporary scene is represented by shop, garden, tearoom and workshop.

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BURNESIDE 2 miles N of Kendal off the A591 C Potter Fell

There has been a settlement here since the Stone Age and the remains of a stone circle can be seen close by on Potter Fell. By the 15th century, Burneside was a settled agricultural area and a rich variety of mills sprang up along the River Sprint - fulling, corn, cotton, wool, bobbin, and the original rag paper mill at Cowan Head. The River Sprint, which meets the River Kent just south of the village, has its own remarkably beautiful Longsleddale Valley, which curves past Garnett Bridge deep into the high fell country. A bridle path climbs from the head of the valley into Kentmere, another spectacularly beautiful walk.

SEDGWICK 4 miles S of Kendal off the A590 I Lakeland Maize Maze

At Raines Hall Farm, the Lakeland Maize Maze is the area’s first. Designed by Adrian Fisher, the world’s leading maze designer, the maze is cut into a nine-acre field of maize with miles of paths creating a devilish puzzle. There’s also a Headlong Maze and an Arrow Maze as well as pedal tractors, sandpit, picnic area, giant draughts and a variety of farmyard animals.

LEVENS 5 miles S of Kendal off the A590 A Levens Hall A Sizergh Castle

At the southern tip of Scout Scar, overlooking the Lyth Valley and the lower reaches of the River Kent, stands Levens Hall with its unique

topiary gardens. The superb Elizabethan mansion (described as “one of the wonders of Lakeland”) developed from a 14th-century pele tower and the gardens were first laid out in 1694. They were the work of Colonel James Grahame, a keen gardener who purchased the hall in 1688 and employed a Frenchman, Guillaume Beaumont, to create the amazing topiary work. (Beaumont also redesigned the gardens at Hampton Court for James II.) The grounds also contain a Fountain Garden created in 1994 to mark the tercentenary of the gardens. The interior of the house is equally rewarding - a wealth of period furniture, fine panelling and plasterwork, a dining room with walls covered in goatskin, and paintings by Rubens, Lely and Cuyp. A major location for the BBC TV serial Wives and Daughters, the Hall’s other attractions include a collection of working steam engines, a tearoom, gift shop and plant centre. Only a couple of miles north of Levens Hall, just off the A591, is another stately old residence, Sizergh Castle, the impressive home of the Strickland family since 1239, although the property is now administered by the National Trust. Originally a pele tower built to withstand border raiders, the house has been added to and altered over the intervening centuries to provide the family, as times became less violent, with a more comfortable home. Now boasting intricately carved chimney mantels, fine oak panelling, and a collection of portraits of the Stuart royal family, the castle stands in well laid out gardens and 1500 acres of grounds, which provide superb views over the Lakeland fells.

STAVELEY 4 miles NW of Kendal off the A591 A St James’s Church

A pleasant village of grey stone buildings,

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Around Kendal

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With decking overlooking the River Kent and inside seating that includes a comfy sofa area, Wilf’s Café offers a varied and extensive menu of home-made food that includes vegetarian options, gorgeous cakes and daily specials. From the café there’s a link door to Hawkshead Beer Hall. Wilf’s Café also provides outside catering for all occasions and the premises are available for hire in the evenings.

HAWKSHEAD BREWERY Staveley Mill Yard, Back Lane, Staveley, Cumbria LA8 9LR Tel: 01539 825260 website: www.hawksheadbrewery.co.uk Hawkshead Brewery and the Hawkshead Beer Hall are showcases for the craft brewery industry. The Beer Hall looks down into the brew house and has a full stocked bar where award-winning Hawkshead beers are available alongside a range of bottled beers from around the world. Tours of the brewery are available by arrangement and the Beer Hall can be hired at night as a function room. The Beer Hall is open from 12 to 5pm, Monday & Tuesday; and from noon until 6pm, Wednesday to Sunday.

STAVELEY ANTIQUES & LAKELAND PERIOD BEDSTEADS 27-29 Main Street, Staveley, nr Kendal, Cumbria LA8 9LU Tel: 01539 821393 website: www.staveleyantiques.co.uk At Staveley Antiques & Lakeland Period Bedsteads owner John Corry specialises in restoring antique English and French, brass, iron and wooden beds to their former glory. The bedsteads vary in style and design - from distinctive all brass four poster and half tester masterpieces, to delicate cast cotton styles incorporating the soft curved features reminiscent of France and Spain. The Victorian range offers choice of very simple ironwork or intricate combinations of iron and brass. Staveley Antiques craftsmen restore all the beds personally and can accurately date beds by the original manufacturers mark and numbers to the early 1800s. John Corry is also an expert on the Victorian lighting expert W.A.S. Benson who became Managing Director of William Morris Design. So he also restores antique lighting including pieces by Hinks, W. A. S Benson, Benham and Froud. And the showroom also displays a wide range of bedroom accessories, including mirrors, chairs, sofas, vases, figurines and picture frames. Staveley Antiques are pleased to offer a fine range of Valbonne cream painted distressed furniture which continues the fashionable French theme with a mixture of Louis XIV to Louis XVI influences.

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WILF’S CAFÉ Staveley Mill Yard, Back Lane, Staveley, Kendal, Cumbria LA8 9LR Tel: 01539 822329 website: www.wilfs-cafe.co.uk

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Located below the beautiful Kentmere Valley, Gate Foot Gallery opened in 2008 with the aim of exhibiting the work of local and national artists, photographers, ceramicists, jewellers and sculptors. The opening show featured the photography of Jeremy Tweedie and Mike Shepherd, and paintings by Kate Wright and Joy Grindrod. Other artists to have been exhibited here include Ellen Gardner and the locally-based group who call themselves the Three Brushketeers. The gallery occupies a former textile mile and its loft space exhibits local and national works from a wide spectrum of fine art that includes sculpture, glassware, ceramic art and sculpture. There’s also a wide range of artisan jewellery by makers such as Linda Greening, Sondra Gray and Shelley Barlow. The gallery also offers a professional framing service and will frame anything from artwork to photography, mirrors, maps and coins. And if you want to improve your own painting or photographic skills, owner David Powell organises various courses which include visits to various locations in the Lake District. Situated just off the A591, the gallery is open from 11am to 6pm, Wednesday to Saturday.

Staveley is flanked by the rivers Kent and Gowan. It’s a popular base for walkers exploring the Kentmere horseshoe and the High Street fells. Its first church was built in 1388, but only a sturdy tower still stands. It was replaced in 1864 by St James’s Church which has a fine stained glass east window designed by Burne-Jones and created by William Morris & Co.

Sedbergh D Howgill Hills A King’s Arms Hotel A Public School A Quaker Meeting House C Firbank Knott G George Fox A Castlehaw H Farfield Mill

A St Andrew’s Church

H England’s Book Town

In 1974, Sedbergh was brusquely removed from the West Riding of Yorkshire and

became part of Cumbria. However, it still lies within the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the surrounding scenery certainly belongs to the Dales with the mighty Howgill Hills great pear-shaped drumlins shaped by glaciers - soaring to more than 2200 feet (670 metres). Winder Hill, which provides a dramatic backdrop to the little market town, is half that height, but with its sleek grassy flanks and domed top, seems much loftier. Four valleys and four mountain streams meet here and for centuries Sedbergh (pronounced Sedber) has been an important centre for cross-Pennine travellers. During the golden age of stagecoach travel, the town became a staging post on the route between Lancaster and Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The complete journey between Lancaster and Newcastle took from 4am to 7pm: 15 hours to cover a distance of about 120 miles, an average speed of eight

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GATEFOOT GALLERY Windermere Road, Staveley, nr Kendal, Cumbria LA8 9PL Tel: 01539 822554 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.gatefootgallery.com

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miles per hour. At the King’s Arms Hotel, the four horses would be swiftly changed before the equipage rattled off again across the moors to Teesdale, Durham and Newcastle. In those days, the stagecoach would have been used frequently by the boys attending Sedbergh’s famous Public School. Its founder was Roger Lupton, a Sedbergh School Howgill boy who rose to become Provost of Eton: delivered his momentous words, is marked by He established the school because he felt that a plaque and is now known as Fox’s Pulpit. one was desperately needed “in the north country amongst the people rude in Sedbergh is a very friendly town. At St knowledge”. In later years, Wordsworth’s son Andrew’s Church, for example, Protestants studied here and Coleridge’s son, Hartley, and Roman Catholics take turns to use the became a master. The school’s extensive building for their own services, an grounds, through which visitors are welcome arrangement believed to be rare in England. to wander, seem to place the establishment Over the last few years Sedbergh has within a park. established itself as England’s Book Town. That impression is reinforced by following The book shops of Sedbergh and district offer the path beside the River Rawthay to a treasure trove of collector’s books for the Brigflatts. Close to where George Fox stayed enthusiast. The town has also established a overnight with his friend Richard Robinson is Festival of Books and Drama, which takes the oldest Quaker Meeting House in the place in August. north of England. Built in 1675, and still with To the east of the town, on a small wooded its original oak interior, this beautiful, simple hill top, stands Castlehaw, the remains of an building has changed little over the years. ancient motte and bailey castle. Built by the This area is filled with Quaker history and Normans in the 11th century, the castle Firbank Knott, on nearby Firbank Fell, can be guarded the valleys of the River Rawthey and said to be the birthplace of Quakerism, for it the River Lune against the marauding Scots. was here, in 1652, that the visionary George Also, just outside town on the A683 Garsdale Fox gave his great sermon to inspire a huge road, is Farfield Mill Heritage and Arts gathering from the whole of the north of Centre, where spinners, weavers, potters, England. This meeting was to lead to the woodcarvers and other craftspeople use development of the Quaker Movement. The traditional skills to produce high-quality simple boulder on the fell, from which Fox goods, all of it for sale in the shop.

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During the 17th and 18th centuries, the women and children, on whom this work fell, became known as the ‘Terrible Knitters of GARSDALE Dent’, which, today, sounds uncomplimentary, 6 miles E of Sedbergh on the A684 but the local use of the word terrible meant D Baugh Fell quite the opposite (like ‘wicked’ today!). At the Lying just north of Dentdale, Garsdale is both Dent Village Heritage Centre, visitors will find a wealth of information about the a dale and a hamlet, overlooked by the working lives and social customs of the dramatic Baugh Fell. A row of Midland Dalesfolk. Most of the exhibits are of genuine Railway cottages stands alongside the former junction station on the Settle-Carlisle line. This Dales provenance, a large number of them taken from the collection of Jim and Margaret is now a surprisingly busy little place during the summer months when, from time to time, Taylor who founded the centre. Current work by local craftspeople is on preserved steam locomotives pause to take on display at the Dent Crafts Centre, housed in water from a moorland spring. At one time, the waiting room of the northbound platform an 18th century hay barn on the road between was used for church services, the ladies waiting Sedbergh and Dent. The artefacts include wooden toys, bird sculptures, walking sticks, room contained a library of 150 books, and the stone base of the water tower was used as handmade jewellery, original watercolours and prints. Visitors can enjoy morning coffee, light a village hall. lunch or afternoon tea, either outside in the DENT garden or inside by the fire in the Tools of 4 miles SE of Sedbergh off the A684 Yesteryear Tea Room which is adorned with antique tools. A St Andrew’s Church G Adam Sedgwick Dent’s most famous son is undoubtedly the B Dent Village Heritage Centre H Dent Crafts Centre Father of Geology, Adam Sedgwick. Born This charming village, the only one in the son of the local vicar in 1785, Sedgwick Dentdale - one of Cumbria’s finest dales - has went on to become the Woodwardian a delightful cobbled main street with tall Professor of Geology at Cambridge cottages lining the road. Visitors to this University and a friend of Queen Victoria and tranquil place will find it hard to believe that, Prince Albert. The fountain of pinkish Shap in the 18th century, Dent was of greater granite in the village centre is Dent’s memorial importance than nearby Sedbergh. The to this great geologist. Dent stone, with no impressive St Andrew’s Church is Norman in iron pyrites likely to cause sparks, was popular origin though it underwent an almost for millstones used in gunpowder works. complete rebuild in the early 15th century. The little valley of Dentdale winds from the Inside can be seen the Jacobean three-decker village up past old farms and hamlets to Lea pulpit that is still in use and also the local Yeat where a steep lane hairpins up to Dent marble that paves the chancel. Station, almost five miles from the village. Farming has, for many years, dominated the Dent railway station is the highest in Britain, local economy, but knitting, particularly in the more than 1100 feet above sea level, and lies village, has also played an important part. A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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Around Sedbergh

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Windermere D Lakes Line D Orrest Head F Claude Glasses

Birthwaite village no longer features on any map, thanks to the Kendal and Windermere Railway Company, which built a branch line to it in 1847. With an eye on tourist traffic, and considering the name Birthwaite had little appeal, they named the station Windermere, even though the lake is over a mile distant. In the early days carriages, and in later years buses, linked the station with the landing stages in the village of Bowness on the shores of the lake. As the village burgeoned into a prosperous Victorian resort, it became popularly, and then

officially, known by the name of its station, while Windermere water was given the redundant prefix of Lake. The Victorian heritage still predominates in the many large houses here, originally built as country retreats for Manchester businessmen - the railway made it possible for them to reach this idyllic countryside in just over two hours. Hotels, boarding houses, comfortable villas and shops sprang up around the station and spread rapidly down the hill towards the lake until Birthwaite and Bowness were linked together. Windermere’s railway is still operating, albeit now as a single track branch line. The Lakes Line is the only surviving line to run into the heart of the Lake District. Diesel railcars provide a busy shuttle service to and from the main line at Oxenholme. The route, through Kendal, Burneside and Staveley, is a delight

54 Main Road, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 1DX Tel: 01539 448288 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.forgetmenotwindermere.co.uk Established in 2003, the shop stocks a range of painted made to measure furniture which includes kitchen dressers and dining tables also Lloyd Loom furniture and other one off pieces, tableware from Emma Bridgewater and Sophie Conran - you’ll also find an excellent choice of soft furnishings, decorative mirrors and table lamps. Then there are candles from True Grace, toiletries from the french brand Branche D’Olive and a stylish collection of jewellery. Whether you are seeking inspiration for your own interior decor, looking for a sylish piece of jewellery or searching for an unusual and inventive gift, don’t forget to visit Forget Me Not.

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on the famous Settle-Carlisle railway line. This is a marvellous place to begin a ramble into Dentdale or over the Whernside.

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Offering “Comfort with a touch of class” Beaumont House guest accommodation is an elegant Victorian stone detached property built in 1886 for a prominent local business man. Many of its original features are still in place and it has been tastefully refurbished and decorated in a style befitting the age of the property yet providing all the modern comforts necessary to ensure a comfortable and relaxing stay. The house enjoys an enviable location in a quiet residential area close to the heart of Windermere village and just a short stroll from the centre of Bowness and Lake Windermere - England’s largest natural lake. Beaumont House is one of only a few 5-star Lake District guest houses within the Lake District National Park. Guests have the use of a comfortable and spacious lounge where they can relax with a glass of wine or maybe something a little stronger from the small but well stocked ‘Honesty Bar’. Breakfast is served in a bright airy room on the ground floor where guests can enjoy the special Cumbrian Breakfast made from local produce, wherever possible. The accommodation comprises 10 bedrooms and Beaumont House is fortunate in being able to offer three ground floor rooms, one of which can be made up as a twin bedded room or as a 6’ king size bedded room. These are very much in demand by some of the less mobile visitors or those coming to recuperate after a bout of ill health, The ground floor rooms are all shower en suite rooms. On the first floor is a smaller standard 4’6" double bedded en suite room with mahogany headboard and furniture. There are also five 4-poster en suite bedrooms, three in mahogany and one in white, and all with matching antique style furniture. The 4-poster rooms are equipped with 32" flat screen colour television and DVD player; iron and ironing boards. Two of the rooms have whirlpool baths with showers over, two with double size shower bases and one with single shower. All our rooms are individually decorated with the emphasis on calming and relaxing colour schemes; and have colour televisions (most with flat screen TVs and DVD players) radio alarm clocks, hairdryers and complimentary toiletries. Each room also has a hospitality tray for tea and and coffee. An iron and ironing board and trouser press are available on request for those rooms not already equipped with one.

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BEAUMONT HOUSE Holly Road, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 2AF Tel: 01539 447075 Fax: 01539 488311 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.lakesbeaumont.co.uk

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Laurel Cottage is a beautiful Victorian 4-star guest house set in its own gardens in a quiet area of Windermere. Built in the 1890s out of local stone it has retained all of its character and charm. There are 5 double bedrooms available, all with en suite facilities and all equipped with television, DVD player, wireless broadband, hairdryer, radio alarm clock, toiletries and hospitality tray. One room has a king size bed; another has a 4-poster, and most rooms enjoy lovely views. At breakfast time guests are offered a choice of a hearty English breakfast or a lighter Continental alternative.

HOLLY-WOOD GUEST HOUSE Holly Road, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 2AF Tel: 01539 442219 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.hollywoodguesthouse.co.uk Holly-Wood Guest House is a lovely Victorian house set in a quiet residential road in Windermere just a few minutes’ walk from the centre of this quaint village in the heart of the Lake District National Park. A short 15 minute stroll down the hill will take you to Bowness-on-Windermere with its many shops, cafes and restaurants. The accommodation at Holly-Wood comprises 6 attractively furnished and decorated bedrooms, all with a welcoming atmosphere and equipped with en suite shower rooms stocked with quality cotton towels. Complimentary toiletries are provided along with a hair dryer, radio alarm clock, flat screen colour TV, complimentary spring water on day of arrival, a hospitality tray with Fair-trade products. All the beds have crisp Egyptian cotton bedding. Breakfast is definitely something to look forward to at HollyWood. It is served in the spacious dining room at separate tables between 8.30am and 9.30am. There’s an extensive menu that includes locally-made Cumberland or pork sausage, local free-range eggs, smoked haddock, kippers from Fleetwood, and more. Vegetarian and other dietary requirements can be catered for - just mention them when you make your booking.

and provides a very pleasant alternative to the often crowded A591. Within a few yards of Windermere Station, just across the busy main road, is a footpath that leads through the woods to one of the finest viewpoints in Lakeland, Orrest Head. This spectacular vantage point provides a 360degree panoramic view that takes in the 10-

mile length of Windermere, the Cumbrian hills and even the fells of the Yorkshire Pennines. In Victorian times, visitors wandered through such ravishing scenery carrying, not cameras, but small, tinted mirrors mounted in elaborate frames. Arriving at a picturesque spot, they placed themselves with their back to the view, held the mirrors above themselves

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LAUREL COTTAGE 8 Park Road, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 2BJ Tel: 015394 43053 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.laurelcottagewindermere.co.uk

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Maybe it’s the warm lakeland welcome, or perhaps the curiously eclectic mix of ancient, Cumbrian and contemporary that visitors to The Queen‘s Head Hotel in the conservation village of Troutbeck, find so satisfying. It probably has a lot to do with the food (and the beer). Or perhaps its location, tucked away in the Troutbeck Valley, just 3 miles from Windermere. Whatever it is that makes the Queen’s Head such a favourite with the regulars, you should go and experience it at first hand. Probably the hardest thing you’ll do here is choose what to eat. It’s far better to eat the gourmet pub food than read about it except to say that the Chef and kitchen staff deserve all the accolades they’ve amassed, though, as the owners say, “you may not see them on show - they covet only happy diners and their empty plates!” Amongst the starters you’ll find home-cured gravadlax of salmon, chicken liver parfait with hazelnut butter and a wild mushroom and field mushroom gratin with a truffle & emmental cheese toastie. As a main course, how about the delicious Queen’s Head Fish Pie, topped with creamy Lancashire mash; a hand-cut local fillet steak, or Bobotie - a South African dish containing best minced lamb, nibbed almonds, apricots topped with a brandied egg custard complemented by a mini rocket salad with parmesan and a light lemon dressing. Round off your meal with one of the heavenly desserts, or perhaps with a selection of Cumbrian cheeses with home-made oat cakes. Children have their own menu which includes home-made tagliatelle with a cheesy sauce. To accompany your meal, there’s an excellent choice of beverages with a selection of local ales standing alongside the regulars at the bar. Another attraction that could rival the food here is the quality of the accommodation on offer. Rooms with fabulous four-posters and quirky walls from another century; textures and colours to relax the senses - all combine to provide a welcome sanctuary, whether in the original Coaching Inn or in the beautifully transformed ancient barn opposite. The owners do welcome dogs on a lead in the bar area but they are not permitted in the bedrooms or restaurant.

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THE QUEEN’S HEAD HOTEL Townhead, Troutbeck, nr Windermere, Cumbria LA23 1PW Tel: 01539 432174 Fax: 01539 431938 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.queensheadtroutbeck.co.uk

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Around Windermere TROUTBECK BRIDGE 1 mile N of Windermere on the A591 E Holehird

Just north of this little village, in the valley of Trout Beck, lies the Lakeland Horticultural Society’s four-acre garden at Holehird. In 1945, Edward Leigh Groves bequeathed the mansion and the estate “for the better development of the health, education and social welfare services of the County of Westmoreland”. Some time later, the Lakeland Horticultural Society took over responsibility for the garden, which is still run by volunteers of that society, whose primary aim is to promote “knowledge of the cultivation of plants, shrubs and trees, especially those suited to Lakeland conditions”. Highlights include the borders in the walled garden, the many specimen trees, the summer and autumn heathers and the National Collections of astilbes and hydrangeas.

TROUTBECK 3 miles N of Windermere off the A592 A Troutbeck Church A Townend

Designated a conservation area, Troutbeck has no recognisable centre, as the houses and cottages are grouped around a number of wells and springs, which, until recently, were their only form of water supply. Dating from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, the houses retain many of their original features, including mullioned windows, heavy

cylindrical chimneys and, in some cases, exposed spinning galleries. Troutbeck Church, too, is worthy of a visit as there is a fine east window, dating from 1873, that is the combined work of Edward Burne-Jones, Ford Maddox Brown and William Morris. However, perhaps the best known building at Troutbeck is Townend (National Trust), another enchanting example of Lake District vernacular architecture. Built in 1626, the stone and slate house contains some fine carved woodwork, books, furniture and domestic implements collected by the Browne family, wealthy farmers who lived here for more than 300 years until 1944. Open from April to October, the house runs a regular living history programme, so if you visit on a Thursday you can meet Mr George Browne, circa 1900. Another notable resident of Troutbeck was the Troutbeck Giant Thomas Hogarth, uncle of the painter William Hogarth.

KENTMERE 8 miles NE of Windermere off the A591 G Bernard Gilpin H Kentmere Pottery J Dales Way

This hamlet, as its name implies, lies in part of the valley that was once a lake, drained to reclaim precious bottom pasture land. A large mill pond remains to provide a head of water on the River Kent for use at a paper mill. Inside St Cuthbert’s Church is a bronze memorial to Bernard Gilpin who was born at Kentmere Hall in 1517 and went on to become Archdeacon of Durham Cathedral. Known as The Apostle of the North, Gilpin was also a leader of the Reformation and in 1558 was summoned to London to face charges of heresy against the Roman Catholic Church. During the journey, Gilpin fell and

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and so observed the view framed as in a painting. As the image they saw recalled the romantic landscapes of Claude Lorraine, the mirrors were known as Claude Glasses.

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BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE 1½ miles S of Windermere D Windermere A St Martin’s Church B The World of Beatrix Potter A Blackwell

the summer months, and rowing boats and self-drive motor boats available for hire all year round. Curiously, Windermere is the only lake in the Lake District that has no speed restriction for water traffic. Not only is Windermere the largest lake in Cumbria, but it is, at 11 miles long, the largest in England. Across from Bowness, the lake is almost divided in two by Belle Island which is believed to have been inhabited by the Romans. During the Civil War, it was owned by Colonel Phillipson (the Royalist supporter who disgraced himself by riding into Kendal Parish Church). His family had to withstand an 80-day siege, successfully, while the Colonel was away on another campaign. In 1774, the island was bought by a Mr English, who constructed the round house, which, at the time, caused such consternation that he sold the property and the island to Isabella Curwen, who planted the surrounding trees. Fishermen, too, find great enjoyment practising their skills on this well-stocked lake. Once considered a great delicacy in the 17th and 18th centuries, the char, a deep-water trout, is still found here, though catching it is a special art.

It is from this attractive, but seasonally very busy town right on the edge of Windermere that most of the lake cruises operate. Lasting between 45 and 90 minutes, the cruises operate daily and provide connections to the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Steam Railway, the Fell Foot Country Park and the Visitor Centre at Brockhole. This centre (also easily reached by road) is idyllically situated in 30 acres of gardens and grounds and has two floors of interactive exhibitions. There are evening wine/ Lake Windermere champagne cruises during

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broke his leg but, fortunately, while he was recovering, Catholic Queen Mary died and was succeeded by Protestant Queen Elizabeth. The new queen restored Gilpin to favour and saved him from being burnt at the stake. Situated in a peaceful riverside location, Kentmere Pottery produces fine handmade multi-fired English Enamels. From designs by owner Gordon Fox, the pottery specialises in lamps, individual pieces and unique tableware, all of which are available from the studio showroom only. The beautiful valley of the River Kent is best explored on foot. A public footpath runs up its western side, past Kentmere Hall, a fortified pele tower that is now a private farmhouse. Following the river southwards, the Dales Way runs down into Kendal and on into the Yorkshire Dales.

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Richardsons Family Butchers have been operating in the heart of Bowness for more than a century. They produce more than 20 varieties of sausages and their Cumberland sausages won the top UK award in 2008. The fine mature beef and lamb on sale come from the nearby fells and pork from Lancashire pigs. Their home-made steak & kidney pies and tasty pork pies are especially popular. Also on sale are local cheeses, chutneys and relishes. The shop is open from 9am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday.

Away from the marinas and car parks is the old village where St Martin’s Church is of particular interest. It has a magnificent east window filled with 14th and 15th- century glass, and an unusual 300-year-old carved wooden figure of St Martin depicted sharing his cloak with a beggar. On the lake shore just to the north of the village the Windermere Steamboat Centre is currently undergoing a major renovation so it is sadly not possible to see its unique collection of Lake Windermere’s nautical heritage. The exhibits, mainly Victorian and Edwardian craft, include Dolly, the oldest mechanically powered boat in the world, and Beatrix Potter’s rowing boat. As we go to press, there is no firm date for re-opening. Just down the road from the Steamboat Museum is the Old Laundry Visitor Centre, the home of The World of Beatrix Potter, one of the most popular visitor attractions in the country. Here you can enjoy fascinating recreations of the Lakeland author’s books, complete with the sounds, sights and even smells of the countryside. Visitors can also call on Jemima Puddle-duck in a woodland glade, visit Mrs Tiggy-winkle in her kitchen and follow in Beatrix Potter’s footsteps with virtual walks.You can also enjoy lunch or afternoon tea in the Tailor of Gloucester Tea Room or

outdoors on the garden terrace where you can admire The Enchanting World of Beatrix Potter sculpture, unveiled in the presence of Renée Zellweger who played the authoress in the 2006 film Miss Potter. About a mile-and-a-half south of Bowness, Blackwell is a treasure trove of the Arts and Crafts Movement. Completed in 1900, it is the largest and most important surviving masterpiece of the architect MH Baillie Scott (1865-1945). Inspired by Lakeland flora and fauna, he designed every last detail of this outstanding house, creating a symphony of art nouveau stained glass, oak panelling, intricate plasterwork and fanciful metalwork. From the gardens there are wonderful views of Windermere and the Coniston fells.

WINSTER 3 miles S of Windermere on the A5074 G Arthur Ransome

This charming hamlet has an old post office, originally built in the early 17th century as a cottage, that is much photographed. South from the village runs the Winster Valley, which provided Wordsworth with one of his favourite walks. It was at Low Ludderburn, a couple of miles to the south, that Arthur Ransome settled in 1925 and here that he wrote his classic children’s novel Swallows and Amazons.

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RICHARDSONS FAMILY BUTCHERS Queen’s Square, Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3BY Tel: 01539 443135 e-mail: [email protected]

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The Brown Horse is a traditional Lake District coaching inn standing amidst the splendid scenery of the Winster Valley, four miles south of Windermere on the A5074. Dating from the mid-19th century and recently refurbished to a very high standard, it combines all the very best features of a much-loved local, a destination restaurant serving home-cooked food, a top-notch country hotel and a homely B&B establishment. The inn is the very capable and experienced hands of Steve and Karen, who have made the Brown Horse one of the most popular choices in the region to enjoy a drink and a meal. The public bar, with its old-world atmosphere of oak beams and log fires, is the perfect spot for meeting over a glass of hand-pulled traditional ales such as Black Sheep or Jennings Bitter, or perhaps something from a local micro-brewery. The owners have developed the area round the inn into farmland for the raising of livestock and the growing of fruit and vegetables, making the inn virtually selfsufficient and providing the kitchens with the freshest possible produce. This home-grown produce is the basis of many of the dishes served in the light, spacious restaurant, including beef, lamb, venison, pork, game birds and eggs; all the meat comes from Low Moor, Howe Farm, Winster, part of the Brown Horse Estate. The menus offer a contemporary take on traditional Lake District fare in dishes such as home-cured ham hock & egg terrine; a trio of Brown Horse sausages with pecorino mash, shallot gravy & cripsy bacon; best end of lamb & confit of shoulder, hot pot garnish sticky red cabbage & homemade black pudding and homemade winster pheasant & cranberry pie, roast carrots & swede ,creamed potatoes & pheasant gravy. Lunch is served from 12 to 2, dinner from 6 to 9 daily. There’s always a choice of vegetarian main courses and the chefs have devised a special menu for young budding gourmets. The Brown Horse is also an excellent place to enjoy a break from the daily routine and an ideal base for touring a part of the country that is rich in scenic, historic and leisure attractions. The nine spacious bedrooms provide up-to-date style and amenity while retaining the charm and character of original beams and fittings. Four of the rooms enjoy individual views of the village and all look out over the lovely Winster Valley. All have splendidly comfortable solid oak beds, flat-screen TVs, hospitality trays and luxurious en suite bathrooms. The inn also has two self-catering cottages for short-term rental that are ideal for families or a group of friends.

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THE BROWN HORSE INN Winster, nr Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3NR Tel: 01539 443443 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.thebrownhorseinn.co.uk

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NEWBY BRIDGE 8 miles S of Windermere on the A592 D Fell Foot Country Park

The bridge here crosses the River Leven, which runs from the southern tip of Windermere to Morecambe Bay. According to geologists, the mass of end moraines seen here show clearly that the village lay at the southernmost point of Windermere since they were deposited by the glacier while it paused having carved out the lake. Today, however, the village is some distance from the water’s edge, which can be reached on foot, by car, or by taking the steam train on the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway. As the village lies at the junction of two major south Cumbrian roads, it is also a popular tourist destination. One mile north of the village, Fell Foot Country Park (National Trust) is a delightful 18-acre site of landscaped gardens and woodland laid out in late-Victorian times. Rowing boats can be hired at the piers from where there are regular ferries across to Lakeside, and pleasure cruises operate during the summer school holidays.

WITHERSLACK 9 miles S of Windermere off the A590 E Latterbarrow Reserve

On the edge of the village is the Latterbarrow Reserve of the Cumbrian Wildlife Trust, a relatively small reserve that is home to some 200 species of flowering plants and ferns.

LAKESIDE 10 miles S of Windermere off the A590 D Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway E Lakes Aquarium A Stott Park Bobbin Mill

Located at the southwestern tip of Windermere, Lakeside sits beneath gentle wooded hills. It’s the northern terminus of the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway, a fourmile route through the beautiful Leven valley. The railway was once part of a line stretching to Ulverston and Barrow-in-Furness. Throughout the season, hardworking steam locomotives chug along the track, their departure times set to coincide with boat arrivals from Bowness - a joint boat and train return ticket is available. The locomotives in use include 42073 and 42085, ex-LMR Fairburn 0-6-4 tank engines, and 5643, an exGWR 0-6-0 tank. Also present on display or under steam (when not occasionally required elsewhere) is FR20, built for the Furness Railway and Britain’s oldest working standard gauge steam locomotive. Nearby is Britain’s only freshwater aquarium, the Lakes Aquarium with the largest collection of freshwater fish in the UK and also a number of playful otters and diving ducks. A unique attraction for visitors is to walk through an underwater tunnel along a recreation of Windermere’s lake bed. A mile or so northwest of Lakeside, Stott Park Bobbin Mill (English Heritage) is a must for anyone interested in the area’s industrial heritage. One of the best preserved in the country, it’s a genuine working 19thcentury mill and stands in a lovely woodland setting at the southern end of the lake. Visitors can join the inclusive 45-minute tour, watch wooden bobbins being made as they were 200 years ago, and browse over the informative exhibition.

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While living here, Ransome discovered the peaceful churchyard at Rusland and decided that was where he wanted to be buried. And when he died in 1967 that is indeed where he was interred, joined later by his second wife, Eugenia.

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I Lake District Visitor Centre

The Lake District Visitor Centre at Brockhole provides enough activities for a full family day out. Lake cruises depart from the jetty here for 45-minute circular trips and groups of more than 20 can even organise their own private boat. The gardens and grounds were the work of Thomas H Mawson, a Lancastrian who trained in London and set up in business in Windermere in 1885. He soon became fashionable and landscaped the gardens of many wealthy industrialists. Within the beautifully landscaped grounds at Brockhole visitors can join an organised walk accompanied by one of the gardening team, leave their children in the well-equipped adventure playground, enjoy a lakeside picnic or visit the rare breeds of sheep. A wide variety of events takes place during the season - among them a Medieval Living Weekend, a Taste of Cumbria Food Fair, a Christmas Craft Fair and much more. Brockhole itself is a fine Victorian mansion, originally built for a Manchester silk merchant.

AMBLESIDE 4 miles NW of Windermere on the A591 I Market Cross Centre A The Bridge House H Adrian Sankey’s Glass Works B Armitt Collection I Ambleside Sports D Loughrigg Fell A St Mary’s Church D Borrans Park D Stagshaw Garden C Ambleside Roman Fort I Homes of Football D Kirkstone Pass

Standing less than a mile from the head of Lake Windermere, Ambleside is one of the busiest of the Lakeland towns, a popular centre for walkers and tourists, with glorious walks and drives radiating from the town in all

directions. Ambleside offers a huge choice of pubs, restaurants, cafés, hotels and guest houses, as well as art galleries, a two-screen cinema and a mix of traditional family-run shops supplemented by a modern range of retailers in the Market Cross Centre. Because of its many shops specialising in outdoor clothing, the town was recently described as ‘the anorak capital of the world’ and it would certainly be hard to find a wider selection anywhere of climbing, camping and walking gear. Many of Ambleside’s buildings are constructed in the distinctive grey-green stone of the area, which merges attractively with the green of the fields and fells all around. The centre of the town is now a conservation area and perhaps the most picturesque building here is The Bridge House, a tiny cottage perched on a packhorse bridge across Stock Ghyll. Today it’s a National Trust shop and information centre, but during the 1850s it was the home of Mr and Mrs Rigg and their six children. The main room of this one-up, one-down residence measures just 13 feet by six feet, so living chez Rigg was decidedly cosy. Close by, at Adrian Sankey’s Glass Works, visitors can watch craftsmen transform molten material into glass in the age-old way and also purchase the elegant results. A short walk from the mill brings the visitor to the Armitt Collection, which is dedicated to the area’s history since Roman times and to two of its most famous literary luminaries, John Ruskin and Beatrix Potter. Among the highlights are Beatrix Potter’s early watercolours - exquisite studies of fungi and mosses - and a fascinating collection of photographs by Herbert Bell, an Ambleside chemist who became an accomplished photographer.

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BROCKHOLE 3 miles NW of Windermere off the A591

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Stagshaw Garden - Ambleside

through the town bearing colourful, decorated rushes and singing the specially commissioned Ambleside Rushbearer’s Hymn. A few weeks later, the famous Ambleside Sports take place, an event distinguished by the variety of local traditional sports it features. In addition to carriage-driving, ferret or pigeon racing, and tugs of war, the sports include Cumberland and Westmorland wrestling (a little like Sumo wrestling but without the rolls of fat), muscle-wrenching fell racing, and hound trailing. Another experience not to be missed while staying at Ambleside is a boat cruise on Windermere to Bowness. There are daily departures from the pier at Waterhead, about a mile south of the town. At Bowness, there are connections to other lakeland attractions and, during the summer months, evening wine cruises. Rowing boats and self-drive motor boats can also be hired. Just to the west of the pier is Borrans Park, a pleasant lakeside park with plenty of picnic spots, and to the west of the park, the site of Galava Roman Fort. There is little to be seen of the fort but the setting is enchanting. Also well worth a visit is nearby Stagshaw Garden (National Trust), a spring woodland garden that contains a fine collection of shrubs, including some impressive rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. Parking is very limited and vehicular access is hazardous, so it’s best to park at Waterhead car park and walk. Also a short walk from Waterhead car park is Ambleside Roman Fort, the remains of a 2nd-century fort with large granaries, which was built during the rule of Emperor Hadrian

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The popular panoramic view of Ambleside, looking north from the path up Loughrigg Fell, reveals the town cradled within the apron of the massive Fairfield Horseshoe, which rises to nearly 3000 feet. Within the townscape itself, the most impressive feature is the rocket-like spire, 180 feet high, of St Mary’s Church. The church was completed in 1854 to a design by Sir George Gilbert Scott, the architect of London’s St Pancras Station and the Albert Memorial. Inside the church is a chapel devoted to the memory of William Wordsworth and an interesting 1940s mural depicting the ancient ceremony of rushbearing. The ceremony, dating back to the days when the floor of the church was covered by rushes, is still held on the first Saturday in July. Some 400 children process

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RYDAL 6 miles NW of Windermere on the A591 G William and Mary Wordsworth A Rydal Mount

In 1813, following the deaths of their young children Catherine and Thomas, William and

Mary Wordsworth were too grief-stricken to stay on at the Old Rectory in Grasmere. They moved a couple of miles down the road to Rydal Mount, a handsome house overlooking tiny Rydal Water. The family were to stay here for 46 years until the death of Mary Wordsworth in 1859. During this period, the poet was well-established and comparatively prosperous. A salaried position as Westmorland’s Distributor of Stamps (a tax official), supplemented his earnings from poetry. The house has a spacious drawing room where the Wordsworths hosted many parties. The room still contains many original pieces of furniture, personal effects of the Wordsworths and portraits. Although Wordsworth only ever rented the house, it is now owned by his descendants and has been open to the public since 1970. The interior has seen little change and retains a lived-in atmosphere. It contains first editions of the poet’s work and many personal possessions, among them the only surviving portrait of his beloved sister, Dorothy. William was a keen gardener and the four-acre garden remains very much as he designed it.

GRASMERE 7 miles NW of Windermere on the A591 G William Wordsworth A Dove Cottage H Heaton Cooper Studio I Grasmere Sports G William Archibald Spooner

In 1769, Thomas Gray described Grasmere as “a little unsuspected paradise”. Thirty years later, Wordsworth called it “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”. Certainly Grasmere enjoys one of the finest settings in all Lakeland, its small lake nestling in a natural scenic amphitheatre beside the compact, rough-stone village. For lovers of Wordsworth’s poetry,

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to guard the Roman road from Brougham to Ravenglass and act as a supply base. Perhaps the most unusual visitor attraction in Ambleside is the Homes of Football, described by the Sunday Times as a national treasure. It began as a travelling exhibition of football photographs and memorabilia, but now has a permanent home in Lake Road. Photographer Stuart Clarke recorded games and grounds from the Premier League down to amateur village teams. There are now 60,000 photographs on file and a massive selection on show, framed and for sale. Some of the memorabilia retail for £200 or more, but a free picture postcard of your favourite soccer ground is included in the modest entrance fee. Recently, the collection has been expanded and now includes photographs of music festivals, environmental nudes, and collections titled The World, Cumbria and the Lake District. From Ambleside town centre, a steep road climbs sharply up to the dramatic Kirkstone Pass and over to Ullswater. The pass is so called because of the rock at the top that looks like a church steeple. Rising to some 1489 feet above sea level, the road is the highest in the Lake District and, although today’s vehicles make light work of the ascent, for centuries the Pass presented a formidable obstacle. The severest incline, known as The Struggle, necessitated passengers stepping out of their coach and making their way on foot, leaving the horses to make the arduous haul with just the empty coach.

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Lancrigg Vegetarian Country House Hotel enjoys a setting of timeless tranquillity in 30 acres of gardens and woodland overlooking peaceful Easedale. Starting life in the 17th century as a modest farmhouse, it was later renovated and enlarged with the considerable encouragement of William Wordsworth. The Lake Poets used to meet here regularly and Charles Dickens stayed here on his trips to southern Scotland. It is easy to see how writers of such great words would wish to stay here; the solitude and breathtaking views are timelessly inspiring. The hotel was opened in 1985 by Robert and Janet Whittington as an elegant hotel serving delicious vegetarian home cooking. The 12 individually designed guest bedrooms all have private bathrooms (some with whirlpool baths), television, telephone and beverage tray. Each bedroom has unique features that reflect the country house, and all are cosy and comfortable. Also, there are 3 cottages nestled in the woods, a 5-minute walk from the main hotel, if you wish to have complete calm away from the hustle and bustle. These are all open all year round, so whatever the weather you can come and enjoy all the Lancrigg Country House Hotel has to offer. The evening meals, served in a gracious chandelier-lit room that commands fine views across the valley, uses the best and freshest natural ingredients. The excellent food can be complemented by the extensive list of organic wines, beers and spirits. The Green Valley Organic Restaurant at Lancrigg is fully certified organic. They cater for vegetarian, vegan, gluten-, wheat-, dairy- and sugar-free diets. All the meals, cakes and wholesome breads are baked on the premises. The restaurant is open to both residents and non-residents from 8.30am to 6.30pm. Throughout the day there is a mouth-watering choice of light meals, cakes and sandwiches. Recent additions to the hotel’s amenities include a health spa for ladies started by Janet, and the opportunity to explore this lovely corner of Cumbria with guided walks led by Robert.

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LANCRIGG VEGETARIAN COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL Easedale, Grasmere, Cumbria LA22 9QN Tel: 01539 435317 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.lancrigg.co.uk

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Grasmere is the pre-eminent place of pilgrimage. They come to visit Dove Cottage where Wordsworth lived in dire poverty from 1799 to 1808, obliged to line the walls with newspaper for warmth. The great poet shared this very basic accommodation with his wife Mary, his sister Dorothy, his sister-in-law Alice and, as almost permanent guests, Coleridge and De Quincey. Sir Walter Scott also stayed, although he often sneaked off to the Swan Grasmere Hotel for a dram since the Wordsworths were virtually teetotallers. Located Located opposite the village green the on the outskirts of the village, Dove Cottage Heaton Cooper Studio has a changing has been preserved intact, next door is an exhibition of paintings, prints and sculptures award-winning museum dedicated to from four generations of the Heaton Cooper Wordsworth’s life and works. Dove Cottage, family, from Alfred Heaton Cooper (1863Rydal Mount, another of the poet’s homes near 1929) to present day members. Grasmere, and his birthplace, Wordsworth In Grasmere town cemetery is the grave of House at Cockermouth, are all owned by the William Archibald Spooner, sometime Wordsworth Trust, which offers a discount Warden of New College, Oxford. He gave his ticket covering entrance to all three properties. name to Spoonerisms, in which the initial In 1808, the poet moved to The Rectory letters of two words are transposed, with (private) opposite St Oswald’s Church. In his amusing results. Here are a few of his gems, long poem, The Excursion, he describes the some genuine, others perhaps apocryphal: house and its lovely garden beside the River Kinquering Kongs their titles take. Rothay. The church, too, is remembered in the You have hissed all my mystery lessons. same poem: You have deliberately tasted two worms and you can Not raised in nice proportions was the pile, leave Oxford by the town drain. But large and massy, for duration built, Yes indeed: the Lord is a shoving leopard. With pillars crowded and the roof upheld He spent many holidays in Grasmere with By naked rafters intricately crossed, his wife at her house, How Foot. Like leafless underboughs in some thick wood. Like Ambleside, Grasmere is famous for its In 1850, the Poet Laureate was buried in Sports, first recorded in 1852, which still take St Oswald’s churchyard beneath yew trees he place in late August. The most celebrated himself had planted. He was joined there by event in the Lake District, they attract some his wife Mary in 1859 and sister Dorothy in 10,000 visitors and feature many pursuits 1885. A simple tombstone records just their unique to Cumbria such as Cumberland and names and dates of birth and death.

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Grange-over-Sands D Morecambe Bay J Hampsfell Summit J The Hospice J Cistercian Way

Grange, as it’s known locally, is an attractive little town set in a natural suntrap on the north shore of Morecambe Bay. Much of its Victorian charm can be credited to the Furness Railway Company, which developed the town after building the Lancaster to Whitehaven line in 1857. At Grange, the company built an elegant mile-long promenade (now traffic free) and set out the colourful ornamental gardens. Prosperous merchants built grand country homes here and it wasn’t long before local residents began referring to their town as the Torquay of the North. The route to Grange, across the sands of Morecambe Bay, is a treacherous one, though it was used not only by the Romans but also by the monks of Furness Abbey and, later, by stagecoaches looking to shorten their journey time. Avoiding the quicksands of the bay, which have taken many lives over the centuries, is a difficult task. Back in the 16th century, the Duchy of Lancaster appointed an official guide to escort travellers over the shifting sands and also provided him with a house at Grange. The town still has an official guide who takes groups on a three-hour walk

across the bay. The sands are extremely dangerous since “the tide comes in with the merciless speed of a galloping horse”. A crossing should never be attempted without the help of a qualified guide. Away from the hotels, shops, and cafés of the town, there are some lovely walks and none is more pleasant than the path behind Grange, which climbs through magnificent limestone woodlands rich in wild flowers. The path finally leads to the 727 feet Hampsfell Summit and The Hospice, a little stone tower from which there are unforgettable views over the bay and, in the opposite direction, the craggy peaks of the Lake District. Grange is also the starting point of the Cistercian Way, an exceptionally interesting 33-mile-long footpath through the Furness peninsula to Barrow, which takes in, naturally, many Cistercian sites.

Around Grange-overSands LINDALE 2 miles NE of Grange-over-Sands off the A590 G John Wilkinson

This small village was the birthplace of a man who defied the scepticism of his contemporaries and built the first successful iron ship. ‘Iron Mad’ John Wilkinson also built the first cast iron barges and later created the castings for the famous Iron Bridge at Coalbrookdale. After his death in 1808, he was buried in an iron coffin (naturally) in an unmarked grave. The lofty Wilkinson Obelisk to his memory that stands near the village crossroads is also cast in iron. The admirers who erected it, however, omitted to provide the iron column with a lightning conductor. A

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Westmorland wrestling, as well as the more understandable, though arduous, fell running. Collectors of curiosities who happen to be travelling north on the A591 from Grasmere should look out for the vintage black and yellow AA telephone box on the right hand side of the road. Still functioning, Box 487 has been accorded Grade II listed building status by the Department of the Environment.

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FLOOKBURGH 3 miles SW of Grange-over-Sands on the B5277

interaction areas. Outside, there’s another play area and a range of amusements that includes go-karts, a bouncy castle, electric cars and pony rides. For adults, there’s a café and bar.

CARK-IN-CARTMEL 3 miles SW of Grange-over-Sands on the B5278 A Holker Hall E Holker Garden Festival B Lakeland Motor Museum

Cumbria’s premier stately house, Holker Hall is one of the homes of the Cavendish family, An ancient Charter Borough, Flookburgh is the Dukes of Devonshire. An intriguing blend still the principal fishing village on Morecambe of 16th-century, Georgian and Victorian Bay. Roads from the square lead down to the architecture, it’s a visitor-friendly place with no shore where fishermen still land their catches restraining ropes keeping visitors at a distance. of cockles, shrimps and (less often nowadays) There’s a fire burning in the hearth and a flukes, the tasty small flat fish from which the lived-in, family atmosphere. There’s also an village takes its name. impressive cantilevered staircase, a library with At the Lakeland Miniature Village are some 3500 leather-bound books (plus a few more than 100 buildings handmade from local dummy covers designed to hide electricity Coniston slate by Edward Robinson and sockets), and an embroidered panel said to be accurate down to the last detail. In 2005 an the work of Mary, Queen of Scots. oriental teahouse was opened here and Each year, Holker’s 25 acres of awardoverlooks the owner’s oriental garden. winning gardens host the Holker Garden The village’s other main attraction is Festival, which has been hailed as the Chelsea Ducky’s Park Farm, which has a large indoor of the North. The gardens are the pride of soft play area and undercover animal Lord and Lady Cavendish who developed the present layout from the original “contrived natural landscape” Holker Hall, Cark-In-Cartmell of Lord George Cavendish 200 years ago. The Great Holker Lime and the stunning spring display of rhododendrons are among the delights not to be missed. Here, too, are a wonderful rose garden, an azalea walk and a restored Victorian rockery. Lord and Lady Cavendish put their pride into words: “If you gain from your visit a small fraction of the B Lakeland Miniature Village

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few years later it was struck to the ground by a lightning bolt. The obelisk lay neglected in shrubbery for some years but has now been restored and towers above the village once again. Just outside Lindale, at Castle Head, is the imposing house that Wilkinson built by the River Winster.

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CARTMEL 2 miles W of Grange-over-Sands off the B5278 A Cartmel Priory A Church of St Mary & St Michael I Racecourse

One of the prettiest villages in the Peninsula, Cartmel is a delightful cluster of houses and cottages set around a square from which lead winding streets and arches into back yards. The village is dominated by the famous Cartmel Priory, founded in 1188 by Augustinian canons. Like all monastic institutions, the priory was disbanded in 1537 and several of its members were executed for participating in the Pilgrimage of Grace. Today, substantial remains of the 12th-century Gatehouse (National Trust) survive, but the rest of the Priory was cannibalised to build many of the village’s cottages and houses. After the Dissolution, only the south aisle of the Church of St Mary and St Michael was still standing, but in 1620 George Preston of Holker began restoring the entire building and the richly carved black oak screens and stall canopies date from this restoration. St Mary and St Michael’s has

recently been described as “the most beautiful church in the northwest”. Inside, in the southwest corner of the church, is a door known as Cromwell’s Door. The holes in it are said to have been made by indignant parishioners firing at Parliamentarian soldiers who had stabled their horses in the nave. Cartmel is also famous for its attractive Racecourse, set beside the River Eea, on which meetings are held in May, July and August. Located close to the village, the course must be one of the most picturesque in the country, and it is certainly one of the smallest.

Ulverston D Hoad Hill A Replica of the Eddystone Lighthouse G Stan Laurel B Laurel & Hardy Museum G Statue of Laurel & Hardy A Church of St Mary H The Lakes Glass Centre B Gateway to Furness Exhibition B Ulverston Heritage Centre I Dickensian Festival J Cumbria Way

It was way back in 1280 that Edward I granted Ulverston its market charter; more than seven centuries later, colourful stalls still crowd the narrow streets and cobbled market square every Thursday. It’s a picturesque scene, but a walk up nearby Hoad Hill is rewarded with an even more striking view of the town. The great expanse of Morecambe Bay with a backdrop of the Pennines stretches to the south, the bulk of Ingleborough rises to the east, Coniston Old Man and the Langdale Pikes lie to the west and north. Crowning the hill is a 100ft-high Replica of the Eddystone Lighthouse, raised here in 1850 to commemorate one of Ulverston’s most distinguished sons, Sir John Barrow. Explorer, diplomat and author, he served as a Lord of

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pleasure that we ourselves get from them, then the work of generations of gardeners will not have been in vain.” The Holker Hall estate contains a wide variety of other attractions - formal gardens, water features, a 125-acre deer park, picnic and children’s play areas, a gift shop and café. Also within the grounds is the Lakeland Motor Museum, which houses an extensive and fascinating collection of some 30,000 exhibits, including cars, motorcycles, tractors, bicycles, pedal cars and engines, plus perhaps the largest display of auto memorabilia on public display within the UK - mascots, badges, advertising posters, petrol pumps, globes, enamel signs, pottery and models.

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Owned and run by the mother and daughter team of Marion and Tamar Bobbett. Nouschka Shoes opened in November 2008, a distinctive addition to Ulveston’s luxury fashion shops. It specialises in top quality European shoes with must-have designs from Apepazza and Latitude, both Italian,

Hispaniltas, Sachelle and Pretty Ballerinas, all from Spain, Olga Berg from Sweden, and the German company, K and S. The shoe styles include casuals, exercise boots, sheepskins and flip-flops. In addition to these highly desirable shoes, the shop also sells a selection of vintage bags, sourced by Marion, stylish modern bags, scarves, patinas and Wolford hosiery and colour leggings. And if you are planning to stay in this pleasant little town, Marion also runs a welcoming bed & breakfast establishment, Wolsey Lodge.

PHOEBE 3 Potters Court, off Market Street, Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 7TQ Tel: 01229 580200 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.findafashionshop.co.uk Tucked away in one of Ulverston’s ginnels, just off Market Street, Phoebe offers a striking collection of stylish ladies’ clothing. Owner Christine Sanders has been in retail fashion since 1992 and often stages fashion displays at local hotels. She is very experienced in dealing with top quality brands. Amongst the smart designer labels on display here are the Canadian Joseph Ribkoff, Frank Lyman, Pomodoro, Olsen and Jensen. You’ll find jeans from NYDJ and the French company FDJ, as well as a good selection of handbags and other accessories, including a small range of jewellery. The shop is open from 10am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday.

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NOUSCHKA SHOES 2-4 Brogden Street, Ulveston, Cumbria LA12 7AH Tel: 01229 586546

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Whether you are dressing to walk the dog or to appear as Mother of the Bride, you’ll find exactly what you want at Two by Two, a delightful fashion shop housed in a Georgian listed building and owned and run by Janet Weaver and her daughter, Rachel. The displays range from Irish knits to Pashminas from Nepal; from Scottish tweeds to hoodies from Cornwall. From Cumbria itself come Sophie’s Woollens and other designer labels include Seasalt, MacJeans, Privatsachen and Vetono. Sizes available range from 10 to 22, and the shop is open from 10am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday.

the Admiralty for more than 40 years, his naval reforms contributing greatly to England’s success in the Napoleonic Wars. The simple cottage where he was born, at Dragley Beck, is open on Sundays during the season and by appointment. An even more famous son of Ulverston was Stanley Jefferson, born at number 3, Argyle Street on 16 June 1890. Stanley is far better known to the world as Stan Laurel. His 30year career in more than 100 comedy films with Oliver Hardy is celebrated in the town’s Laurel and Hardy Museum in the Roxy Cinema on Brogden Street. The museum was founded in 1976 by the late Bill Cubin, who devoted his life to the famous duo and collected an extraordinary variety of memorabilia, believed to be the largest in the world. Everything is here, including letters, photographs, personal items, and even furniture belonging to the couple. There’s also a small cinema showing the duo’s films throughout the day as well as documentaries about them. In April 2009, the pair were further commemorated by a life-size statue of them and their dog, Laughing Gravy. The statue was commissioned and paid for by The Sons of the Desert, the international appreciation society for Laurel and Hardy. Created by

sculptor Graham Ibbeson, who is well-known for his statue of Eric Morecambe on Morecambe seafront, the piece was unveiled by veteran comedian Ken Dodd. The oldest building in the town is the Church of St Mary, which, in parts, dates from 1111. Though it was restored and rebuilt in the mid 19th century and the chancel was added in 1903, it has retained its splendid Norman door and some magnificent stained glass, including a window designed by the painter Sir Joshua Reynolds. Ulverston also boasts England’s shortest, widest and deepest canal. Visitors can follow the towpath walk, which runs dead straight for just over a mile to Morecambe Bay. Built by the famous engineer John Rennie and opened in 1796, the canal ushered in a half-century of great prosperity for Ulverston as an inland port. At its peak, some 600 large ships a year berthed here, but those good times came to an abrupt end in 1856 with the arrival of the railway. The railway company’s directors bought the canal and promptly closed it. The town’s other attractions include The Lakes Glass Centre, which features the highquality Heron Glass and Cumbria Crystal. Also at the Centre is the Gateway to Furness Exhibition, providing a colourful snapshot of

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TWO BY TWO 52 Market Street, Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 7LS Tel: 01229 420338 e-mail: [email protected]

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Haverthwaite Station, nr Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 8AL Tel: 01539 531594 From the Victorian station at Haverthwaite, beautifully restored steam locomotives of the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway haul comfortable coaches through the Leven Valley. With connections at Lakeside by way of Windermere Lake Cruises, the train offers a unique perspective from which to enjoy the ever-changing lake and river scenery of this picturesque part of the Lake District. This former Furness Railway branch line runs for 3.5 miles, with a journey time of around 20 minutes, giving passengers a leisurely and relaxing trip. Whilst at Haverthwaite, visitors can sample a delicious home-baked scone in the licensed Station Restaurant - an ideal way to start or end the journey.

the history of the Furness Peninsula. There’s more history at the Ulverston Heritage Centre, which also has a gift shop selling souvenirs and crafts made in Cumbria, while modern entertainment is provided at the Coronation Hall theatre complex and the traditional Roxy Cinema. Back in 1999, Ulverston held its first Dickensian Festival, which is now a wellestablished and popular event, held towards the end of November. Many traders and locals dress in Victorian costume and there is a huge variety of free entertainment, free events for children, costume competitions, balloon modelling, horse-drawn carriages, music and dancing, a Christmas Market, plus a traditional fairground, complete with Helter Skelter, and lots of music from Folk to Brass Bands. The open area to the north of the town, known as The Gill, is the starting point for the 70-mile Cumbria Way. The route of the Cumbria Way was originally devised by the Lake District branch of the Ramblers Association in the mid-1970s and provides an

exhilarating journey through a wonderful mix of natural splendour and fascinating heritage. The first section is the 15 mile walk to Coniston.

Around Ulverston HAVERTHWAITE 5 miles NE of Ulverston off the A590 I Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway

Haverthwaite is the southern terminus of the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway, a branch of the Furness railway originally built to transport passengers and goods to the steamers on Lake Windermere. It was one of the first attempts at mass tourism in the Lake District. Passenger numbers peaked in the 1920s, but the general decline of rail travel in the 1960s led to the railway’s closure in 1967. However, a group of dedicated rail enthusiasts rescued this scenic stretch, restored its engines and rolling stock to working order and now provide a full service of steam trains throughout the season.

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The Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway

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A Swarthmoor Hall G George Fox

An enchanting Elizabethan manor house, Swarthmoor Hall was built around 1586 by George Fell, a wealthy landowner. It was his son, Judge Thomas Fell, who married Margaret Askew, who, in turn, became a follower of George Fox after hearing him preach in 1652. At that time, many people were suspicious of Fox’s beliefs but Margaret was able to persuade her husband to use his position to give Fox protection and shelter, and the hall became the first settled centre of the Quaker Movement. Missionaries were organised from here and the library was stocked with both Quaker and anti-Quaker literature. Judge Fell died in 1658 and, 11 years later, Margaret married George Fox. The hall is open during the summer and it gives a fascinating insight into the history of the early Quakers.

BARDSEA 2 miles S of Ulverston off the A5087 A Conishead Priory

The village stands on a lovely green knoll overlooking the sea and, as well as having a charming, unhurried air about it, there are some excellent walks from here along the coast, either from its Country Park or through the woodland. Just up the coast, to the north, stands Conishead Priory, once the site of a leper colony that was established by Augustinian canons in the 12th century. The monks from the priory used to act as guides across the dangerous Cartmel Sands to Lancashire. After the Dissolution, a superb private house was

built on the site and the guide service was continued by the Duchy of Lancaster. In 1821, a Colonel Braddyll demolished the house and built in its place the ornate Gothic mansion that stands here today. He was also responsible for the atmospheric ruined folly on Chapel Island that is clearly visible in the estuary. Latterly, the Priory has been a private house, a hydropathic hotel, a military hospital and a rest home for Durham miners; it is now owned by the Tibet Buddhist Manjushri Mahayana Buddhist Centre, which was established here in 1977. During the summer months, visitors are welcome to the house, which is open for tours, and there is a delightful woodland trail to follow through the grounds. A new Buddhist temple was opened in 1998, based on a traditional design, which symbolises the pure world (Mandala) of a Buddha.

GREAT URSWICK 3 miles S of Ulverston off the A590 A Church of St Mary & St Michael D Birkrigg Common C Druid’s Circle

The ancient village Church of St Mary and St Michael is noted for its unusual and lively woodcarvings that were created by the Chipping Campden Guild of Carvers. As well

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SWARTHMOOR 1 mile S of Ulverston off the A590

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LINDAL-IN-FURNESS 3 miles SW of Ulverston on the A590 H Colony Country Store

The Colony Country Store combines the aromatic character of an old-fashioned country general store with the cost-cutting advantages of a Factory Shop. There’s a huge range of textiles, glassware, ceramics and decorative accessories for the home, but the Colony is also Europe’s leading manufacturer of scented candles, supplying millions of scented and dinner candles every year to prestigious stores around the world.

Barrow-in-Furness B Dock Museum G Sir James Ramsden J Cistercian Way

Today, Barrow is a major shopping centre for the area with a huge indoor market where some 80 independent traders display their wares, and a thrice-weekly outdoor market on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Undoubtedly the best introduction to the town is to pay a visit to the Dock Museum, an impressive glass and steel structure that hangs suspended above a Victorian graving

dock. Audio-visual displays and a series of exhibits describe how Barrow grew from a tiny hamlet in the early 1800s to become the largest iron and steel centre in the world as well as a major shipbuilding force in just 40 years. The museum has some spectacular models of ships of every kind, an art gallery hosting both permanent and travelling exhibitions, and a high tech interactive film show where characters from Barrow’s history come to life to tell the town’s story. It was James (later Sir James) Ramsden who established the first Barrow Iron Ship Company in 1870, taking advantage of local steel production skills. In 1896, the firm was acquired by Vickers, a name forever linked with Barrow, and for a number of years was the largest armaments works in the world. Sir James was also the general manager of the Furness Railway and the town’s first mayor. At the Ramsden Square roundabout is a statue of him, and at the next roundabout is a statue of HW Schneider, one of the men who developed the Furness iron mines and was involved in the Barrow Haematite Steel Company. Barrow is the western starting point of the Cistercian Way, a 33-mile walk to Grangeover-Sands through wonderfully unspoilt countryside.

Around Barrow-inFurness DALTON-IN-FURNESS 5 miles N of Barrow-in-Furness off the A590 A Dalton Castle G George Romney A Drinking Fountain A Furness Abbey E South Lakes Wild Animal Park

Lying in a narrow valley on the part of

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as the figure of a pilgrim to the left of the chancel arch, there are some smaller carvings in the choir stall of winged children playing musical instruments. Also worthy of a second look is the 9th-century wooden cross, which bears a runic inscription. Lying between Great Urswick and Bardsea, and overlooking Morecambe Bay, is Birkrigg Common, a lovely area of open land. Here, on the east side of the common, is the Druid’s Circle, with two concentric circles made up of 31 stones up to three feet high.

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At feeding time (2.30pm each day) they climb a 20ft vertical tree to ‘catch’ their food. Ringtailed lemurs wander freely through the park, visitors can walk with emus and hand-feed the largest collection of kangaroos in Europe. The 17 acres of natural parkland are also home to some of the rarest animals on earth, among them the red panda, maned wolves and tamarin monkeys, as well as some 150 other species from around the world, including rhinos, giraffes, tapirs, coatis and the everpopular meerkats. In 2005, pygmy hippos, mandrills and penguins were added to the menagerie. Other attractions include a safari railway, adventure play area, many picnic spots, a gift shop and a restaurant overlooking the African Savannah. To the south of the town stands Furness Abbey (English Heritage), a magnificent ruin of eroded red sandstone set in tranquil parkland, the focal point of south Cumbria’s

Dalton Castle

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Furness that extends deep into Morecambe Bay, this ancient place was once the leading town of Furness and an important centre for administration and justice. The 14th-century pele tower, Dalton Castle, was built with walls six feet thick to provide a place of refuge for the monks of Furness Abbey against Scottish raiders and it still looks very formidable. It is now owned by the National Trust and houses a small museum with an interesting display of 16th and 17th-century armour, along with exhibits about iron mining, the Civil War in Furness, and the life and work of George Romney, the 18th-century portrait painter. He was best known in his day for his many portraits of Nelson’s mistress, Lady Hamilton, with whom he formed a romantic attachment in spite of having a wife in Kendal. He is buried in the graveyard of the red sandstone Church of St Mary, where his grave is marked with the inscription ‘pictor celeberrimus’ (most celebrated painter). Visitors to Dalton will find that it is time well spent looking around the many fascinating facades in and close to the market place, such as the unique, cast-iron shop front at No 51 Market Street. In the market place itself is an elegant Victorian Drinking Fountain with fluted columns supporting a dome of open iron work above the pedestal fountain. Nearby stands the market cross and the slabs of stone that were used for fishdrying in the 19th century. From the mostly pedestrianised Tudor Square, visitors can board a bus to the awardwinning South Lakes Wild Animal Park, which has been designated the Region’s Official Top Attraction by the Cumbria Tourist Board. It’s the only place in Britain where you can see rare Amur and Sumatran tigers (the world’s biggest and smallest tigers).

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At the centre of Broughton-in-Furness is a fine Georgian square where you’ll find The Square Café and B&B. Annan House offers comfortable bed and breakfast accommodation and has a fine display of framed original photographs by John Rousseau. The café is a friendly place to be for a late breakfast, a bowl of warming home-made soup or a more substantial lunch, a snack, or coffee with a generous slice of cake. Most of the food is made on the premises from first-rate ingredients and owner Jane Rousseau is proud of the fact that she has a strong following of local people. Meals are tailored to the seasons of the year and the café is open from 10.30pm to 4pm every day. The comfortable accommodation at Annan House comprises three guest rooms - 2 doubles and one twin. One of the double rooms has an en suite bathroom; the other rooms have washbasins and share a large bathroom on the same landing.

monastic heritage. Furness Abbey stands in the Vale of Deadly Nightshade, a shallow valley of sandstone cliffs and rich pastureland. The abbey itself was established in 1123 at Tulketh, near Preston, by King Stephen. Four years later it was moved to its present site and, after 20 years, became absorbed into the Cistercian Order. Despite its remoteness, the abbey flourished, with the monks establishing themselves as guides across the treacherous sands of Morecambe Bay.

BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS 19 miles N of Barrow-in-Furness on the A595/A593 H Clocktower Gallery G Branwell Brontë A Broughton House C Swinside Circle G The Coleridge Trail

At the heart of this attractive, unspoilt little town is the Market Square with its tall Georgian houses, commemorative obelisk of

1810, village stocks, fish slabs and some venerable chestnut trees. The old Town Hall, occupying the whole of one side of the square, dates back to 1766 and now houses the town’s Tourist Information Centre and the Clocktower Gallery, which exhibits paintings, ceramics, mirrors and glassware. On 1 August each year, Broughton’s Lord of the Manor comes to the Square to read out the market charter granted by Elizabeth I, while councillors dispense pennies to any children in the crowd. One of the town’s famous short-term residents was Branwell Brontë, who was employed here as a tutor at Broughton House, a splendid double-fronted, threestorey town house just off the Square. Branwell apparently found time to both enjoy the elegance of the town and to share in whatever revelries were in train. Wordsworth often visited Broughton as a

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THE SQUARE CAFÉ AND B&B Annan House, The Square, Broughton-in-Furness, Cumbria LA20 6JA Tel: 01229 716388 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.thesquarecafe.biz

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Dower House is a delightful Victorian country house in an exceptional location with over 6 acres of natural gardens, built on the site of a medieval packhorse inn. Particularly beautiful in spring and autumn, the woods abound in wild snowdrops, daffodils and bluebells, according to season. The Duddon Valley was greatly loved by Wordsworth. Guests have the choice of 4 comfortable apartments, with bedrooms, bathrooms, sitting rooms and fully-equipped kitchens. There is a choice of self-catering or bed and breakfast. Apartments are spacious with good views over the Furness Fells and gardens. Overlooking the Duddon Estuary, Dower House is surrounded by excellent walking country and is only 15 minutes’ drive from golden sandy beaches and one of the region’s top water-skiing centres. There is also pony-trekking and the Cumbrian Heavy Horses Centre nearby.

THE BLACKSMITH’S ARMS Broughton Mills, Broughton in Furness, Cumbria LA20 6AX Tel: 01229 716824 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.theblacksmithsarms.co.uk Voted “Top Pub in Cumbria 2010” by the AA Pub Guide, The Blacksmith’s Arms is a wonderfully traditional hostelry with a history going back to 1577. It has snug olde worlde bars with open fires and settles where you’ll find real ales from local breweries on tap, and a cosy small dining room known as “The Shop”. There’s also a larger dining area where the specialities of the house include superb lamb dishes based on local Herdwick lambs. Food is served every lunchtime (noon until 2pm) and evening (6pm to 9pm) except on Mondays.

child. Throughout his life he loved this peaceful corner of Lakeland and celebrated its charms in some 150 poems; his 20th-century poetical successor, Norman Nicholson, was similarly enchanted. Some of the Lake District’s finest scenery the Duddon Valley, Furness Fells, Great Gable and Scafell, are all within easy reach, and about three miles west of the town is Swinside Circle, a fine prehistoric stone circle, some 60 feet in diameter, containing 52 close-set stones and two outlying ‘portal’ or gateway stones. About three miles north of the town, the peaceful hamlet of Broughton Mills will attract followers of The Coleridge Trail.

During the course of his famous ‘circumcursion’ of Lakeland in August 1802, the poet stopped to refresh himself at the Blacksmith’s Arms where he “Dined on Oatcake and Cheese, with a pint of Ale, and two glasses of Rum and water sweetened with preserved Gooseberries”. The inn, built in 1748, is still in business and barely changed since Coleridge’s visit.

GLEASTON 3 miles E of Barrow-in-Furness off the A5087 A Gleaston Castle A Gleaston Water Mill

This village is typical of the small, peaceful villages and hamlets that can be found in this

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DOWER HOUSE ACCOMMODATION High Duddon, Duddon Bridge, Broughton-in-Furness, Cumbria LA20 6ET Tel: 01229 716279 e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] website: www.dowerhouse.biz

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WALNEY ISLAND 2 miles W of Barrow-in-Furness on the A590 E North Walney National Nature Reserve E South Walney Nature Reserve

This 10-mile-long narrow island is joined to the Furness Peninsula by a bridge from Barrow docks and is home to two important nature reserves that are situated at either end of the island. North Walney National Nature Reserve covers some 350 acres within which are a great variety of habitats including sand dunes, heath, salt marsh, shingle and PIEL ISLAND scrub. As well as having several species of 5 miles SE of Barrow-in-Furness orchid and over 130 species of bird either via foot ferry from Roa Island. living or visiting the reserve, there is also an area for the preservation of the natterjack A Piel Castle F King of Piel Island toad, Britain’s rarest amphibian. Unique to the Though this tiny island was probably visited Reserve is the Walney Geranium, a plant that by both the Celts and the Romans, its first grows nowhere else in the world. North recorded name is Scandinavian - Fotheray Walney also boasts a rich prehistoric past, with from the Old Norse meaning fodder island. important archaeological sites from mesolithic, From the middle of the 12th century, the neolithic, Bronze and Iron Age times. monks of Furness Abbey did indeed use the Situated on the island’s long foot, South island as a warehouse and storage area. Walney Nature Reserve is home to the Piel Castle was originally a house, fortified largest nesting ground of herring gulls and in the early part of the 14th century and, at the lesser black-backed gulls in Europe. It is also time, the largest of its kind in the northwest. the most southerly breeding ground of such Intended to be used as one of the abbey’s species as the oystercatcher, tern and ringed warehouses and to offer protection from plover and, in all, over 250 bird species have raiders, in later years the castle also proved to be been recorded. A stopover for many migratory a useful defence against the King’s customs birds, the reserve has considerable ecological men and a prosperous trade in smuggling interest with mudflats, sandy beaches, rough began. The castle has, over many years, been pasture and fresh water. There are waymarked allowed to fall into ruin and now presents a trails around the reserve, with a number of stark outline on the horizon. Guided walking hides. tours of the island are available. The island’s southernmost tip, Walney Point, Despite being so small, the island does is dominated by a 70ft lighthouse, which was have a pub, The Ship. Even more remarkable, built in 1790 and whose light was, originally, the landlord bears the honorary title King of an oil lamp. Piel Island, an honour most recently bestowed in 2008. A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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part of the peninsula. Here, standing close by the ruins of Gleaston Castle is Gleaston Water Mill. The present buildings date from 1774, with the massive original wooden gearing still in place. The machinery is operational most days - an 18ft waterwheel and an 11ft wooden pit wheel serviced by an intriguing water course. Evening tours with supper are available by prior arrangement. Also on site is the Pig’s Whisper Country Store with thousands of piggy collectables and a Dusty Miller’s teashop selling homemade meals and scones.

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Three distinct areas lie within the southwest quarter of Cumbria. The enchanting scenery around Coniston Water and its environs is very much on the tourist trail, and has strong literary connections. John Ruskin, the 19thcentury author, artist, and critic made his home at Brantwood on the shore of Coniston, and the lake is also the setting for many of the adventures recounted in Swallows and Amazons by Arthur Ransome. Wordsworth went to school in Hawkshead, where the desk he defaced with his name can still be seen. But probably the most popular of Coniston’s literary denizens is Beatrix Potter who, after holidaying at Near Sawrey as a child, later bought a house at Hill Top as well as many acres of farms, which she later bequeathed to the National Trust. Further west is Cumbria’s ‘Empty Quarter’, a vast terrain of magnificent mountains and desolate fells beloved of climbers and walkers. England’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike, rises here; the country’s deepest lake, Wast Water, sinks to a depth of some 200 feet and is surrounded by sheer cliffs soaring up to 2000 feet, and the village of Wasdale Head claims to have the smallest church in England. Bordering this untamed landscape is the narrow coastal strip, stretching from Whitehaven down to Millom, which has its own identity as well as a quiet charm. The coastline is dominated by small 18th and 19th-century iron mining communities set between the romantic outline of the Lakeland fells and the grey-blue waters of the Irish Sea.

Coniston G Beatrix Potter G John Ruskin G Arthur Ransome G Sir Donald Campbell D Old Man of Coniston B Ruskin Museum A Brantwood

Beatrix Potter, John Ruskin, Arthur Ransome, Sir Donald Campbell - all of them have strong connections with Coniston Water, the third largest and one of the most beautiful of the central Cumbrian lakes. Beatrix Potter lived at Sawrey near Windermere, but she also owned the vast Monk Coniston estate at the head of Coniston Water. On her death, she bequeathed it to the National Trust, a body she had helped to establish and to which she devoted much of her time and fortune. John Ruskin came to Coniston in 1872, moving into a house he had never seen. Brantwood, on the eastern side of the lake, is open to the public and enjoys superb views across the water to the great crumpled hill of the Old Man of Coniston, 800 metres high. From its summit there are even more extensive vistas over Scotland, the Isle of Man and, on a clear day, as far as Snowdonia. Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons has delighted generations with its tales of children’s adventures set in and around the Lake District. As a child he spent his summer holidays near Nibthwaite at the southern end of the lake and recalled that he was always “half-drowned in tears” when he had to leave. Later he bought a house overlooking Coniston Water and many locations in his books can still be recognised today. Sir Donald Campbell’s associations with the lake were both glorious and tragic. In 1955 he broke the world water speed record here; 12 years later, when he was attempting to beat

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Coniston and Southwest Cumbria

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Brantwood, Coniston

Shipbuilding. Coniston Launch also offers lake cruises in its two timber launches, and at the boating centre craft of every kind are available to rent. Coniston village was once an important copper mining centre with the ore being mined from the Old Man of Coniston and some of the surrounding hills. Mined from the days of the Romans, the industry’s heyday in Coniston was in the 18th and 19th centuries but, with the discovery of more accessible deposits elsewhere, the industry went into decline and the village returned to pre-boom peacefulness. At 2631 feet, the Old Man of Coniston is a considerable climb, but many make the effort and the summit can often be bustling with fell walkers enjoying the glorious views. Coniston’s most famous inhabitant was John Ruskin, the 19th-century author, artist, critic, social commentator and one of the first conservationists. He lies buried in Coniston churchyard and the Ruskin Museum nearby contains many of his studies, pictures, letters, photographs and personal belongings, as well as his collection of geological specimens. Here, too, is his funeral pall made of Ruskin lace embroidered with wild flowers. The lace was so called because Ruskin had encouraged the revival of flax hand-spinning in the area. Lace pieces made to his own designs and based on the sumptuous ruffs worn by sitters in portraits by Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese were attached to plain linen to make decorative cushions, table covers and bedspreads - many of these are on display. The museum also possesses Arthur Ransome’s boat Mavis (Amazon)

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his own record, his boat, Bluebird, struck a log while travelling at 320mph. In March 2001, his widow was present as the tailfin of the boat was at last hauled up to the surface. For 34 years the 15-foot rear section had lain on a bed of silt, 140 feet down and right in the middle of the lake. Sir Donald’s body was later recovered and was buried on 12 September 2001 in the village cemetery - an event that was comparatively little covered by the media, who were obviously more concerned with the tragic events in New York and Washington the day before. Nowadays, boats on Coniston Water are restricted to a 10mph limit, which is an ideal speed if you’re travelling in the wonderful old steamship, the Gondola. So called because of its high prow that enabled it to come in close to shore to pick up passengers, Gondola was commissioned by Sir James Ramsden, General Manager of the Furness Railway Company and first Mayor of Barrow, and was launched on Coniston Water in 1859. She was retired in 1936 but found a new career as a houseboat in 1945. Abandoned after a storm in the 1960s, she was saved by a group of National Trust enthusiasts and restored and rebuilt by Vickers

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Turner (who was one of his heroes), see his study, which is lined with wallpaper he designed himself, and watch a 20-minute video that provides a useful introduction to his life and works. There’s also a well-stocked bookshop, a craft shop, an excellent tearoom, restaurant and 250 acres of grounds with wellmarked nature trails and where a theatre season is held during the summer.

Around Coniston GREAT LANGDALE 9 miles N of Coniston on the B5343 D Dungeon Ghyll

One of the most dramatic of the Lake District waterfalls is Dungeon Ghyll, which tumbles 60 feet down the fellside. The ‘dungeon’ is actually a natural cave. Nearby is the well-known Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel,

Ruskin - The Museum The Institute, Yewdale Road, Coniston, Cumbria LA21 8DU Tel: 015394 41164 Fax: 015394 41132 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.ruskinmuseum.com The Ruskin Museum has been acclaimed as one of ‘Britain’s best Museums and Galleries’, and as ‘the most thought-provoking in the Lakes’ for its quietly authoritative telling of the Story of Coniston from the Stone Age to the Jet Era, and its masterly introduction to Coniston’s two blue-eyed boys, JOHN RUSKIN (1819-1900, Britain’s greatest critic of art and architecture, who later became a subversive critic of the Capitalist society and a radical political economist), and the Speed Ace and ‘Boys’ Own’ hero, Donald Campbell, who broke four World Water Speed Records on Coniston Water in his famous Hydroplane Bluebird K7. Coniston is literally as old as the surrounding hills, so the Ruskin Museum examines and explores the text-book geology of the Furness Fells, and their associated extractive industries of copper-mining and slate quarrying. Displays relating to dry-stone walls, Herdwick sheep husbandry, and the Ruskin-inspired Arts & Crafts Langdale Linen Industry and intricate Ruskin lace technique complete the picture.

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and a new extension is currently being built to house Donald Campbell’s iconic boat, Bluebird. It is expected to open in late 2009 and about a year later the restored Bluebird will be installed. From the jetty at Coniston, a short ferry trip takes visitors to John Ruskin’s home, Brantwood, which occupies a beautiful setting on the eastern shores of Coniston Water. It was his home from 1872 until his death in 1900. When he arrived for the first time he described the house, which he had bought for £1500 without ever seeing it, as “a mere shed”. He spent the next 20 years extending the house, by adding another 12 rooms, and laying out the gardens. The view from the Turret Room he had built was, Ruskin declared, “the best in all England”. Sadly, Ruskin’s later years were blighted by mental illness: “He was,” said a biographer, “at times quite mad.” Visitors today can wander around rooms filled with Ruskin’s watercolours, paintings by

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Hawkshead, with its whitewashed cottages, cobbled yards and floral displays, has been described as “the prettiest village in the Lake District” and right in the heart of this charming little village are the offices of Lakeland Hideaways Cottages. The company was formed in 1989 by Ruth and Gary Thomason with the aim of bringing the personal service back into letting holiday homes. They pride themselves on knowing their cottages inside and out, able to describe everything from the view from the windows to the easiest walk to the pub. All their properties are in the village and the surrounding vales of Esthwaite and Grizedale in the area so loved by Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter - her farm, Hill Top, is just a couple of miles away. Whether you prefer a traditional Lakeland cottage, or a barn conversion; a location in the village of Hawkshead, or overlooking the beautiful Lakeland fells; close to local pubs and restaurants, or beside a lake, they are confident that they will have a property to suit your taste and your pocket. Many of their properties offer free fishing and welcome pets, and all of them are listed on the Hideaways website with full details, pictures and online booking. Bookings are usually from Saturday to Saturday, but short three or four night breaks are available and can be tailored to your holiday dates. If you can get to Hawkshead, Hideaways will be glad to welcome you at their office and, subject to availability, show you around the cottages and answer any queries. Hawkshead’s location is idyllic. It nestles in the rolling countryside between the lakes of Windermere and Coniston Water, with the mountains only a short drive away. Whether you are wanting a walking holiday, cycling or just relaxing and touring the lakes and villages, Hawkshead provides the perfect base for exploring this beautiful area.

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LAKELAND HIDEAWAYS COTTAGES The Square, Hawkshead, Cumbria LA22 0NZ Tel: 01539 442435 Fax: 01539 436178 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.lakeland-hideaways.co.uk

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HAWKSHEAD 3 miles E of Coniston on the B5285 G Beatrix Potter H The Beatrix Potter Gallery G William Wordsworth D Esthwaite Water A Hawkshead Grammar School A Church of St Michael & All Angels

There are more Beatrix Potter connections in the enchanting little village of Hawkshead. Her solicitor husband, William Heelis, worked from an office in Main Street, and this has now been transformed into The Beatrix Potter Gallery (National Trust). The gallery features an exhibition of her original drawings and illustrations alongside details of her life. Hawkshead has specific Wordsworth connections, too. Hawkshead Grammar School was founded in 1585 by Edwin Sandys, Archbishop of York, and between 1779 and 1787 the young William Wordsworth was a star pupil. The earliest of his surviving poems was written to celebrate the school’s

200th year. The school is open from Easter to September and visitors can inspect the classrooms during the summer holidays, see the desk where William carved his name and have a look around the headmaster’s study. Ann Tyson’s Cottage, where Wordsworth lodged while he attended the school, has also survived. It stands in Wordsworth Street and is now a guest house. Situated at the head of Esthwaite Water, enjoying glorious views of Coniston Old Man and Helvellyn, Hawkshead is a delightful village of narrow cobbled lanes with a pedestrianised main square dominated by the Market House, or Shambles, and another square linked to it by little snickets and arched alleyways that invite exploration. The poet Norman Nicholson observed that, “The whole village could be fitted into the boundaries of a large agricultural show; yet it contains enough corners, angles, alleys and entries to keep the eye happy for hours.” The Church of St Michael and All Angels, with its massive 15th-century tower, seems rather grand for the village, but it was built at a time when Hawkshead was a wealthy town. Inside, there are some remarkable wall paintings from the late 1600s, and look out for the “Buried in Woolen” affidavit near the

HAWKSHEAD RELISH COMPANY The Square, Hawkshead, Cumbria LA22 0NZ Tel: 01539 436614 Fax: 01539 436728 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.hawksheadrelish.com Created by the husband and wife team of Mark and Maria Whitehead, who have lived in the Lake District for more than 30 years, the Hawkshead Relish Company has grown from a small venture selling a range of six preserves to its present status with over 100 relishes, preserves and chutneys on offer. They are all made by hand using traditional methods and without any preservatives, colourings or enhancers. The quality of their products has attracted some 37 awards, including 2008 Entrepreneur of the Year and, in 2005, the coveted top title of Producer of the Year in the Great Taste Awards.

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which makes an excellent starting point for walks in this spectacularly scenic area where the famous peaks of Crinkle Crags, Bowfell and the Langdale Pikes provide some serious challenges for hikers and ramblers.

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Set in the magnificent Vale of Esthwaite, Hawkshead is regarded by many as the prettiest village in the Lake District. It has strong associations with Beatrix Potter, whose work is celebrated in the Beatrix Potter Gallery, and with William Wordsworth who was a pupil at Hawkshead Grammar School - you can still see the desk where he carved his name. Copious information about the town’s many attractions and all types of holiday accommodation, cottages, hotels and B&Bs can be found at the Hawkshead Tourist Information Shop & Gallery in Main Street. In addition to stocking the usual guidebooks, maps, local crafts and souvenirs, the shop is also an outlet for Ooh-La-La!, the Kendal & Kirkby Lonsdale-based emporium of fashion. Here you will find a good selection of stylish accessories, including jewellery and handbags, along with soft toys, thimbles, tableware and decorations. There’s also a gallery displaying works by local artists. The shop is open every day from 9am to 5pm.

vestry door. In 1666, the government had decreed that corpses must not be buried in shrouds made from “flaxe, hempe, silke or hair, or other than what is made of sheeps wool onely”. The idea was to help maintain the local woollen industry and this was one way of ensuring that even the dead got to help out. The church is the focal point of the annual Lake District Summer Music Festival and a popular venue for concerts and recitals. In the churchyard is a war memorial erected in 1919 and modelled on the ancient runic cross at Gosforth. Some lovely walks lead from Hawkshead to Roger Ground and Esthwaite Water, possibly the least frequented of the Lakes, and also to the nearby hamlet of Colthouse where there’s an early Quaker Meeting House built around 1690. Esthwaite Water was much loved by

Wordsworth, as he shows in The Prelude: My morning walks were early; oft before the hours of school I travelled round our little lake, five miles Of pleasant wandering. Happy time!

NEAR SAWREY 4 miles E of Coniston on the B5285 G Beatrix Potter A Hill Top D Tarn Hows

After holidaying here in 1896, the authoress Beatrix Potter fell in love with the place and, with the royalties from her first book, The Tale of Peter Rabbit, she purchased Hill Top in 1905. After her marriage in 1913 to a local solicitor, she actually lived in another house in the village and used the charming 17thcentury cottage as her study. Oddly, she wrote very little after the marriage, spending most of her time dealing with the management of the

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HAWKSHEAD TOURIST INFORMATION SHOP & GALLERY Main Street, Hawkshead, Cumbria LA22 0NT Tel: 01539 436946 e-mail: [email protected]

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After an extensive refurbishment, Sawrey Country House Hotel is the latest Boutique Hotel to open in the Windermere area. With 11 individually designed bedrooms, an elegant bar, a relaxing lounge and a stunning restaurant, Sawrey House has been transformed into a stylish and luxurious hotel. Located in the heart of the English Lake District, it nestles in the pretty village of Near Sawrey and boasts spectacular views of Esthwaite Water and Grizedale Forest. This splendid boutique hotel combines modern hospitality with the rustic charms of the Lake District. Step into the graceful ambience of Sawrey House and immediately relax as the experienced and enthusiastic staff invite you to make yourself completely at home as they look after your every need. All bedrooms feature immaculate en-suite bathrooms, enhanced with luxury bathroom products from Elsyl. Décor is elegant and chic, and guests will additionally find flat screen LCD TVs, 33 freeview channels and well-stocked tea & coffee trays make welcome additions to these beautiful rooms. During the day, why not head to the tea room to succumb to the temptations of homemade scones and cakes or after your day exploring this breathtakingly beautiful area, return to the relaxing bar and unwind with a welcoming drink. Here you can mingle with like-minded guests before dinner in the gorgeous restaurant. Sample mouthwatering homemade dishes and an impressive selection of fine wines to round off any day perfectly. Situated close to Hawkshead, Coniston and Ambleside and within easy reach of Windermere, Bowness and many local attractions, Sawrey House is the ideal base to explore this stunning part of the Lake District. For Beatrix Potter fans, the National Trust property and writing place for her famous books, Hill Top Farm, is just next door. As a quintessentially English rural hideaway, the well-appointed Sawrey House Hotel is sure to win a place in the hearts of nature lovers and romantics everywhere and is the ideal country retreat for people who appreciate the finer pleasures of life.

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SAWREY COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL Near Sawrey, Hawkshead, Cumbria LA22 0LL Tel: 01539 436387 Fax: 01539 436010 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.sawreyhouse.com

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Set amidst rolling hills above the quiet western shore of Lake Windermere, High Wray Farm B&B and Cottage offers a choice of quality accommodation. Bed & breakfast guests stay in the charming 17th century National Trust property with Beatrix Potter connections which has many original features such as oak beams, inglenook fireplace and a court cupboard dated 1628. At breakfast time, guests can enjoy a full cooked farmhouse breakfast made with fresh local produce, including free range farm eggs, or have the breakfast of their choice - vegetarian and special diets are catered for. Relaxing evenings can be spent in the cosy lounge with its wood-burning fire before retiring to the pretty bedrooms, all of which are en suite, tastefully furnished and with hospitality tray. For those who prefer self-catering, Stable Cottage nearby has 2 en suite bedrooms, a lounge/dining area, a fully equipped kitchen and full disabled access.

farms she had bought in the area. Following Beatrix Potter’s death in 1943, the house and the land she had bought on the surrounding fells became the property of the National Trust. In accordance with her will, Hill Top has remained exactly as she would have known it. One of the most popular Lakeland attractions, Hill Top is full of Beatrix Potter memorabilia, including some of her original drawings. The house is very small so a timed entry system is in operation to avoid overcrowding and to protect the fragile interior. Tarn Hows, part of the 4000-acre Monk Coniston estate bought and sold on to the National Trust, was created to resemble a Swiss lake and is very rich in flora and fauna it has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

GRIZEDALE 3 miles SE of Coniston off the B5285 E Grizedale Forest H Tree Sculptures I Go Ape! Grizedale

The village lies at the heart of the 9000-acre Grizedale Forest, which was acquired by the Forestry Commission in 1934 and is famous for its theatre and sculpture. The Commission’s original intention of chiefly cultivating the forest for its timber met with much resistance and, over the years, many pathways have been opened and a variety of recreational activities have been encouraged. The Visitor Centre vividly illustrates the story of the forest as well as showing how the combination of wildlife, recreation and commercial timbering can work together hand-in-hand. The forest, too, is famously

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HIGH WRAY FARM B&B AND COTTAGE High Wray, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 0JE Tel: 01539 432280 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.highwrayfarm.co.uk

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SEATHWAITE 5 miles W of Coniston off the A593 D Dunnerdale G William Wordsworth G Rev Robert Walker

A mere five miles or so from Coniston as the crow flies, by road Seathwaite is nearly three times as far. It stands in one of the Lake District’s most tranquil and least known valleys, Dunnerdale. According to the Met Office this farming village is Britain’s wettest inhabited spot with an average yearly rainfall of 140 inches; nearby uninhabited Styhead Tarn, however, has recorded 172 inches as its annual rainfall. Little has changed here since the days when William Wordsworth, who knew the area as Duddon Valley, captured its natural beauty in a sequence of sonnets. In his poem The Excursion, he wrote about the Rev Robert Walker, the curate of Seathwaite. “Wonderful Walker” as Wordsworth referred to him, served the church here for some 67 years, though he also filled various other jobs such as farm labourer and nurse, as well as spinning wool and making his own clothes. Fell walkers and hikers who prefer to escape the crowds will delight not only in the solitude of this glorious valley, but also in the wide variety of plant, animal and birdlife that have made this haven their home.

HARDKNOTT PASS 5 miles W of Coniston off the A593 C Hardknott Fort

Surrounded by the fell of the same name, this pass is one of the most treacherous in the Lake District, yet it was used by the Romans for the road between their forts at Ambleside (Galava) and Ravenglass (Glannaventa). Of the remains of Roman occupation, Hardknott Fort on a shoulder of the fell, overlooking the Esk Valley, is the most substantial and also provides some of the grandest views in the whole of the Lake District.

BOOT 8 miles W of Coniston off the A595 I Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway

Lying at the eastern end of the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, this is a wonderful place to visit whether arriving by train or car. A gentle walk from the station at Eskdale brings you to this delightful village with its pub, post office, museum, waterfall and nearby St Catherine’s Church in its lovely secluded riverside setting.

ESKDALE GREEN 10 miles W of Coniston off the A595 A Eskdale Mill

One of the few settlements in this beautiful and unspoiled valley, the village lies on the route of the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. Further up the valley stands a group of buildings that make up Eskdale Mill where cereals have been ground since 1578, when it is recorded that the brothers Henry and Robert Vicars were the tenants, paying an annual rent of eight shillings (40p). Approached by a picturesque 17th-century

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the home of some 80 Tree Sculptures commissioned since 1977. Also located within the forest, Go Ape! Grizedale is an award-winning high wire forest adventure course of extreme rope bridges, Tarzan swings and zip slides. A 2009 addition to the course was a double zip, which launches hardy spirits over 200 metres across the valley bottom and back again.

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Stanley House has been sympathetically converted into 12 ensuite bedrooms, with stunning views either of the fells to the North or the gardens, rivers and fells to the South. All rooms are very comfortably furnished to a high standard and include flat screen TVs with DVD players (there is a DVD library for those wetter or lazier days) and WIFI for those that cannot be away from it all. All the bathrooms have bath and shower. On the ground floor there are two large sitting rooms, one with a cosy wood burning stove and doughy sofas to laze on, the other equally as comfortable, and with the added large screen TV with Playstation hooked-up to it to entertain the children (of whatever age). Breakfast is served in a dining room overlooking the extensive gardens with the confluence of the River Esk and Whillan Beck; all residents have the use of this room all day for making snacks in, or just to get a corkscrew and a glass or two. There are endless walks straight from the door - river, flat or hilly - depending on the level of activity require. Plus, there is the Ravenglass and Eskdale Steam Railway on the doorstep (literally!). Stanley House is urrounded by 5 fantastic Inns, all serving excellent food and award winning real ale; one of them being the Woolpack Inn - which is in the same ownership - and none of them further than a 5 minute drive; infact two of them are within a 10 minute walk.

packhorse bridge, the Mill contains original machinery for grinding oatmeal and is in full working order.

except for the impressively preserved walls of the Bath House. Almost 12 feet high, these walls are believed to be the highest Roman remains in the country. One of the town’s major attractions is the 15-inch narrow gauge Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, which runs for seven miles A Glannaventra I Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway up the lovely Mite and Esk River valleys to the A Muncaster Castle E World Owl Centre foot of Scafell. Better known to locals as A Muncaster Water Mill “La’al Ratty”, it was built in 1875 to transport ore and quarried stone from the Eskdale The only coastal village within the Lake District National Park, Ravenglass is set beside Valley and opened the following year for the estuary of three rivers - the Esk, the Mite, passenger traffic. Since then, the railway has and the Irt. It is not surprising that Ravenglass survived several threats of extinction. The was an important port from prehistoric times. most serious occurred at the end of the 1950s when the closure of the Eskdale granite The Romans built a naval base here around quarries wiped out the railway’s freight traffic 78AD, which served as a supply point for the military zone around Hadrian’s Wall. They also at a stroke. However, at the auction for the constructed a fort, Glannaventra, on the cliffs railway in 1960, a band of enthusiasts outbid the scrap dealers and formed a company to above the town, which was home to around keep the little railway running. 1000 soldiers. Little remains of Glannaventra

Ravenglass

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STANLEY HOUSE Eskdale, Cumbria CA19 1TF Tel: 01946 723327 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.greendoor.me

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Today, the company operates 12 locomotives, both steam and diesel, and 300,000 people a year come from all over the world to ride on what has been described as “the most beautiful train journey in England”. There are several stops along the journey and at both termini there is a café and a souvenir shop. At Ravenglass Station there is also a museum that brings to life the history of this remarkable line

and the important part it has played in the life of Eskdale. A mile or so east of Ravenglass stands Muncaster Castle, which John Ruskin described as the “Gateway to Paradise”. The 77-acre estate has been in the ownership of the Pennington family since 1208. In 1464 the Penningtons gave shelter to King Henry VI after his defeat at the Battle of Hexham. On his departure, Henry presented them with his enamelled glass drinking bowl, saying that as long as it remained unbroken the Penningtons would survive and thrive at Muncaster. Apart from the many treasures, the stunning Great Hall, Salvin’s octagonal library and the barrel ceiling in the drawing room, Muncaster is also famous for its gardens. The collection of rhododendrons is one of the finest in Europe,

MUNCASTER COUNTRY GUEST HOUSE Muncaster, Ravenglass, Cumbria CA18 1RD Tel: 01229 717693 Fax: 01229 717776 e-mail: [email protected] website: muncastercountryguesthouse.com Formerly the village school, Muncaster Country Guest House is full of character and charm. Owner’s Sue & Vin aim to ensure that their family run guest house provides good quality accommodation, food and hospitality at reasonable prices. What used to be the school’s main hall is now the guest lounge with comfortable seating areas in front of the fire and full sky TV. There is also a good selection of maps and books which guest are welcome to borrow during their stay. Top quality food is a priority and most of the ingredients are sourced locally for the substantial cooked breakfasts and evening meals, which are available on request. Both are served in the breakfast room overlooking the garden. Outside there’s a ¾ acre garden with apple and plum trees, azaleas, rhododendrons, and in season, snowdrops, daffodils and bluebells. Various seating areas around the garden allow guests to enjoy the scenery and fresh air. For the youngsters, there is a rope swing hanging from the boughs of a chestnut tree. What was the junior playground now provides parking for up to 15 vehicles, and the infant playground is now a walled courtyard garden, a veritable sun trap, and provides access to Muncaster Castle.

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Ravenglass Station

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Ravenglass, Cumbria CA18 1RQ Tel: 01229 717614 Fax: 01229 717010 Muncaster Castle has been the Pennington family home for 800 years. Tour the great hall, octagonal library and elegant dining room using the free audio tour describing the unique treasures within. Himalayan Gardens, described by John Ruskin as the “Gateway to Paradise”, comprise over 70 acres of glorious gardens featuring plants and trees from all over the world. Spectacular rhododendron, camellia and azalea collections are set against the dramatic backdrop of the Lake District fells. The World Owl Centre is also based at Muncaster and features one of the largest collections of owls in the world. Over 50 species of owls, from the tiny pygmy owl to the huge European eagle owl. Delight in the daily displays. Meet the Birds at 2.30pm and Heron Happy Hour at 4.30pm (March to November).

gathered primarily from plant-hunting expeditions to Nepal in the 1920s, and there are also fine azaleas, hydrangeas and camellias as well as many unusual trees. For many visitors the chief attraction is the World Owl Centre, where endangered owl species are bred. More than 200 birds are on display, including the Snowy owls, which have become great favourites on the back of the Harry Potter films. There have been many

Muncaster Castle, Ravenglass

enquiries about keeping them as pets but, as the staff at the Centre point out, the snowy owl is a mighty predator with a five-feet wingspan. Mighty as he is, he is not the mightiest of the owls at the Centre: that honour goes to the European eagle owl, whose full splendour can be seen at the daily demonstrations. Muncaster’s latest attraction is the Meadow Vole Maze. These little creatures are the staple diet of barn owls, and visitors can find out what it’s like to be a vole on the run from a hungry owl. Originally part of the Muncaster Castle Estate, Muncaster Water Mill can be traced back to 1455, though it is thought that this site may be Roman. The situation is certainly idyllic, with the mill race still turning the huge wooden water wheel and the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway running alongside. In November 1996, Pam and Ernie Priestley came to the mill and Ernie put his years of engineering experience to

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Muncaster Castle

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Around Ravenglass SILECROFT 10 miles S of Ravenglass off the A595 Perhaps of all the villages in this coastal region of the National Park, Silecroft is the perfect example. Just a short walk from the heart of the village is the beach, which extends as far as the eye can see. On the horizon rises the distant outline of the Isle of Man. There is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest close by, a tract of coastal scrubland that provides the perfect habitat for the rare natterjack toad.

MILLOM 13 miles S of Ravenglass on the A5093 B Millom Folk Museum B RAF Millom Museum G Norman Nicholson E Hodbarrow A Hodbarrow Beacon E Dunningwell Hall Gardens

This small and peaceful town stands at the mouth of the River Duddon with the imposing Black Combe Fell providing a dramatic backdrop. Originally called Holborn Hill, the present-day name was taken from nearby Millom Castle, which is now a private, working farm. Like many neighbouring towns and villages in Furness, Millom was a small fishing village before it too grew with the development of the local iron industry. Millom Folk Museum tells the story of the town’s growth and also has a permanent memorial to Norman Nicholson (19141987) who is generally regarded as the best

MILLSTONES BARN FOOD SHOP & GIFTS Bootle, Millom, Cumbria LA19 5TJ Tel: 01229 718775 website: www.millstonesbarn.co.uk Following the foot and mouth epidemic of 2000, the Grice family decided to diversify the activities on their farm. Today, that diversification has grown into the little complex known as Millstones Barn Food Shop & Gifts. The reclaimed barn features local timbers for the beams and cedar wood from the farm for display tables. It’s an excellent illustration of the philosophy behind the project - “Locally sourced products used wherever possible!” In the Food Hall you’ll find an impressive variety of local produce, including venison, along with a tempting range of meats, cheeses, eggs and smoked food. What was originally a cow byre is now a bright and airy café/ restaurant with a veranda patio commanding wonderful views of the west coast fells. The emphasis here is on serving healthy, nutritious food that is tempting to look at, tastes delicious and is home made from the freshest locally sourced ingredients. The main barn is home to the art and crafts centre which features an eclectic range of unusual products. There’s locally spun wool along with pots, pictures and paintings. A good place to find perfect presents for friends or to choose something for your own home.

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use as the miller. Until January 2008 the mill was open every day, working just as it has done for hundreds of years. Sadly, it is currently not open to the public.

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DRIGG 2 miles N of Ravenglass on the B5343 E Drigg Dunes

The main attractions here are the sand dunes and the fine views across to the Lakeland

mountains and fells. There is an important nature reserve, Drigg Dunes, on the salt marshes that border the River Irt, but take note, adders are common here. The reserve is home to Europe’s largest colony of blackheaded gulls. Drigg Railway Station is a request stop on the scenic Cumbrian Coast Line, and has a coffee and craft shop.

SEASCALE 4 miles N of Ravenglass on the B5343 A Victorian Wooden Jetty B Sellafield Visitors Centre

One of the most popular seaside villages in Cumbria, Seascale enhanced its resort status in 2000 by restoring the Victorian Wooden Jetty to mark Millennium Year. Stretching out into the Irish Sea, it is the focal point for fishing, beach casting, wind surfing and waterskiing, and also provides the starting point for many walks, including the Cumbrian Coastal Way which passes along the foreshore. Two Victorian buildings stand out: the Water Tower, medieval in style and with a conical roof, and the old Engine Shed, which is now a multi-purpose Sports Hall. A couple of miles north of the village is the Sellafield Visitors Centre where you can get switched on to the debate about electricity and nuclear power through a range of interesting exhibits, interactive features and presentations.

GOSFORTH 5 miles N of Ravenglass on the A595 A Viking Cross H Chinese Bell H Gosforth Pottery A Wasdale Church D Sca Fell Pike D Wastwater

On the edge of this picturesque village, in the graveyard of St Mary’s Church, stands the tallest ancient cross in England. Fifteen feet high, the Viking Cross towers above the

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writer on Lakeland life and customs since Wordsworth himself. Nicholson’s book Provincial Pleasures records his affectionate memories of Millom, the town where he was born and spent all his life. Other displays include a full-scale reproduction of a drift and cage from nearby Hodbarow mine. South of Millom, at Haverigg, is the RAF Millom Museum situated in the former Officers Mess. Visitors to the site will find a fascinating collection of more than 2000 photographs of the wartime activities of the RAF in the area, various artefacts connected with the period and a number of items recovered from local crash sites. The museum also has a fine collection of aero engines including a Rolls-Royce Merlin, a Westland Whirlwind helicopter, the cockpit section of a De Havilland Vampire jet trainer and an example of the HM14 or Flying Flea. The Duddon Estuary is an important site for wildlife, and the RSPB site at Hodbarrow is home not only to birds, but to many kinds of flora and fauna. Hodbarrow Beacon, which still stands, was built in 1879 as a lighthouse to assist vessels taking iron ore from the mines to destinations in Europe. A couple of miles north of Millom, Dunningwell Hall Gardens were created in the 19th century and include an Oriental garden, Victorian ponds and woodland walks. Dotted around the gardens are some attractive modern statues, and there’s also a small art gallery and a picnic area.

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smallest in England - although this title is hotly disputed by Culbone in Somerset and Dale Abbey in Derbyshire. The church was built in the 14th century and it is hidden away amidst a tiny copse of evergreen trees. Local legend suggests that the roof beams came from a Viking ship and is certainly true that until late Victorian times the church had only an earth floor and few seats. As well as the deepest lake and the smallest church, Wasdale also boasts the highest mountain in England, Sca Fell Pike (3205ft) - and the world’s biggest liars. This latter claim goes back to the mid-1800s when Will Ritson, “a reet good fibber”, was the publican at the inn. Will enthralled his patrons with tall stories of how he had crossed foxes with eagles to produce flying foxes and had grown turnips so large he could hollow them out to make a comfortable residence. In the same spirit, the World’s Biggest Liar competition takes place every November, usually at the Bridge Inn at Santon Bridge.

CALDER BRIDGE 7 miles N of Ravenglass on the A595 A Calder Abbey A Monk’s Bridge

From this small, grey 19th-century settlement there is an attractive footpath to Calder Abbey. It was founded by monks from Savigny in 1134 but amalgamated with the Cistercians of Furness Abbey after it was ransacked by the Scots a few years later. Following the Dissolution, the monastery buildings lapsed slowly into the present-day romantic ruin. To the northeast of the village, the River Calder rises on Caw Fell. Monk’s Bridge, the oldest packhorse bridge in Cumbria, was built across it for the monks of Calder Abbey.

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huddled gravestones in the peaceful churchyard. Carved from red sandstone, and clearly influenced by both Christian and pagan traditions, the cross depicts the crucifixion, the deeds of Norse gods and Yggdrasil, the World Ash Tree that Norsemen believed supported the universe. The interior of the church also contains some interesting features. There’s a Chinese Bell, finely decorated with Oriental imagery, which was captured in 1841 at Anunkry, a fort on the River Canton, some delightful carved faces on the chancel arch and a collection of ancient stones, the most notable of which dates from Saxon times and depicts the Lamb of God trampling on the serpents of pagan faith. A major attraction in this appealing village is Gosforth Pottery, based in an old farmhouse, where Dick and Barbara Wright produce beautifully crafted work and also give pottery lessons. To the east of Gosforth runs Wasdale, the wildest of the Lake District valleys but easily accessible by road. The road leads to Wastwater, which is just three miles long, but the deepest lake in England. The southern shores are dominated by huge screes some 2000 feet high that plunge abruptly into the lake, and provide an awesome backdrop to this tranquil stretch of water. A lake less like Windermere would be hard to find, as there are no motorboats ploughing their way up and down; this is very much the country of walkers and climbers and from here there are many footpaths up to some of the best fells in Cumbria. Wasdale Head, just to the north of the lake, is a small, close-knit community with an inn that has provided a welcome refuge for walkers and climbers since the mid-1800s. Wasdale Church is claimed to be the

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underground tour (by prior arrangement) and discover why the miners became known as the Red Men of Cumbria. The museum here also A Egremont Castle H Lowes Court Gallery tells the story of the mine, which was worked B Florence Mine Heritage Centre by the ancient Britons, and there is a reI Crab Fair I World Gurning Championship creation of the conditions that the miners endured at the turn of the 20th century. This pretty town is dominated by Egremont In September every year the town celebrates Castle with walls 20 feet high and an 80-foot its Crab Fair. Held on the third Saturday in tower. It stands high above the town, overlooking the lovely River Eden to the south September, the Fair dates back more than seven centuries - to 1267 in fact, when Henry III and the market place to the north. The castle granted a Royal Charter for a three-day fair to was built between 1130 and 1140 by William be held on “the even, the day and the morrow de Meschines on the site of a former Danish after the Nativity of St Mary the Virgin”. The fortification. The most complete part still celebrations include the Parade of the Apple standing is a Norman arch that once guarded the drawbridge entrance. Nearby is an unusual Cart, when a wagon loaded with apples is driven along Main Street with men on the four-sided sundial and the stump of the old back throwing fruit into the crowds. Originally, market cross dating from the early 13th the throng was pelted with crab apples - hence century. the name Crab Fair - but these are considered Egremont’s prosperity was based on the too tart for modern taste, so nowadays more good quality of its local red iron ore, and palatable varieties are used. The festivities also jewellery made from it can be bought at the feature a greasy pole competition (with a pole nearby Florence Mine Heritage Centre. 30 feet high), a pipe-smoking contest, Visitors to the mine, the last deep working wrestling and hound-trailing. The highlight, iron ore mine in Europe, can join an

The Beacon West Strand, Whitehaven, Cumbria CA28 7LY Tel: 01946 592302 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.copelandbc.gov.uk Situated on Whitehaven’s attractive harbourside, The Beacon is home to the town’s museum collection. It traces the social, industrial and maritime heritage of the area, using local characters, audio-visual displays and fascinating museum pieces. The Met Office Weather Gallery, where you can monitor, forecast and broadcast the weather, offers panoramic views of the town and coast. Also, don’t miss the Harbour Gallery, which offers free entry to the changing exhibitions; our gift shop and café. Guided heritage walks are available through the town and over the headland to Haig Colliery Mining Museum. Disabled access and facilities.

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EGREMONT 12 miles N of Ravenglass on the A595

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SANTON BRIDGE 3 miles NE of Ravenglass off the A595 I World’s Biggest Liar A Irton Church

The Bridge Inn here plays host each November to the World’s Biggest Liar competition when contestants from all over the country vie with each other in telling the most prodigious porkies. The churchyard of Irton Church, reached from Santon Bridge via an unclassified road, offers the visitor not only superb views of the Lakeland fells to the west, but also the opportunity to see a beautiful Anglican Cross, in excellent condition, that is certainly 1000 years old.

Whitehaven B The Beacon B Weather Zone H Harbour Gallery B The Rum Story B Haig Colliery Mining Museum A St James’ Church A St Begh’s Church G Mildred Gale A Harbour Pier J Tom Hurd Rock

The first impression is of a handsome Georgian town, but Whitehaven was already well established in the 12th century as a harbour for use by the monks of nearby St Bees Priory. After the Reformation, the land

was acquired and developed by the Lowther family in order to expand the coal industry. By the mid-1700s, Whitehaven had become the third largest port in Britain, its trade based on coal and other cargo business, including importing tobacco from Virginia, exporting coal to Ireland, and transporting emigrants to the New World. When the large ironsteamships arrived however, the harbour’s shallow draught halted expansion and the port declined in favour of Liverpool and Southampton. For that reason much of the attractive harbour area - now full of pleasure craft and fishing smacks - and older parts of the town remain largely unchanged. The harbour and its environs have been declared a Conservation Area and located here is The Beacon (see panel opposite) where, through a series of innovative displays, the history of the town and its harbour are brought to life. The displays reflect the many aspects of this harbour borough with a collection that includes paintings, locally made pottery, ship models, navigational instruments, miners’ lamps, and surveying equipment. The Beilby ‘Slavery’ Goblet, part of the museum’s collection, is one of the masterpieces of English glass-making and is probably the finest example of its kind in existence. Also here are the Harbour Gallery, with an ongoing arts programme, and the Weather Zone, where visitors can monitor, forecast and broadcast the weather. They can also learn about the ‘American Connection’ and John Paul Jones’ attack on the town in 1778. John Paul Jones had been an apprentice seaman at Whitehaven before going to the New World, where he became well-known in the War of Independence. In 1777 he became Captain of the privateer The Ranger and led a raid on Whitehaven with the intention of firing on the ships in the harbour. Thwarted by light winds,

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however, is the World Gurning Championship in which contestants place their heads through a braffin, or horse collar, and compete to produce the most grotesque expression. If you’re toothless, you start with a great advantage! Lowes Court Gallery, in a listed 18thcentury building, holds fine art exhibitions throughout the year. The premises also house a gift shop selling Made in Cumbria gifts, and a Tourist Information Centre.

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In Solway Road, Kells, the Haig Colliery Mining Museum features the world’s only Bever Dorling Winding Engines, various displays about the mining industry and exhibits on mining disasters. Haig Colliery was the last deep coal mine worked in the West Cumberland coalfield. Sunk between 1914 and 1918, it closed in 1986 and was later sold for restoration. As well as the elegant Georgian buildings that give Whitehaven its air of distinction, there are two fine parish churches that are worth a visit. Dating from 1753, St James’ Church has Italian ceiling designs and a beautiful Memorial Chapel dedicated to those who lost their lives in the two World Wars and to the local people who were killed in mining accidents. The younger St Begh’s Church, which was built in the 1860s by EW Pugin, is striking with its sandstone walls. In the graveyard of the parish church of St Nicholas is buried Mildred Gale, the grandmother of George Washington. In 1699, a widowed mother of three, Mildred married George Gale, a merchant who traded from Whitehaven to Maryland and Virginia. Her sons were born in Virginia but went to school in Appleby. When their mother died

the party raided the fort and spiked the guns, then managed to damage only three ships before retreating under fire. The Beacon also has a gift shop, restaurant and a cinema that presents vintage footage of Whitehaven in times past. There’s more history at The Rum Story, which tells of the town’s connections with the Caribbean. The display is housed in the original 1785 shop, courtyards, cellars and bonded warehouses of the Jefferson family, the oldest surviving UK family of rum traders. Visitors can learn about the various processes involved in the making of rum, travel through realistic re-creations of far-off villages, and experience the sights, sounds and smells of St James’ Church - Whitehaven life on board the slave ships.

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Haig Colliery Mining Museum -

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Around Whitehaven ENNERDALE BRIDGE 7 miles E of Whitehaven off the A5086 D Ennerdale Water

The bridge here crosses the River Ehen, which, a couple of miles upstream, runs out from Ennerdale Water, one of the most secluded and inaccessible of all the Cumbrian lakes. The walks around this tranquil lake and through the quiet woodlands amply repay the slight effort of leaving the car at a distance. The Coast to Coast Walk runs the whole length of Ennerdale and this section is generally considered to be by far the most beautiful.

CLEATOR MOOR 3 miles SE of Whitehaven on the B5295 I Kangol Factory Shop

Cleator developed rapidly in the 19th century because of the insatiable demand during the Industrial Revolution for coal and iron ore. As the Cumbrian poet Norman Nicholson wrote:

From one shaft at Cleator Moor They mined for coal and iron ore. This harvest below ground could show Black and red currants on one tree. Cleator is surrounded by delightful countryside and little evidence of the town’s industrial past is visible. But there is a thriving business nearby - the Kangol Factory Shop in Cleator village, which stocks a huge range of hats, scarves, bags, caps and golf wear.

ST BEES 3 miles S of Whitehaven on the B5343 D St Bees Head J Coast to Coast Walk A Church of St Mary & St Bega

St Bees Head, a red sandstone bluff, forms one of the most dramatic natural features along the entire coast of northwest England. Some four miles long and 300 feet high, these towering, precipitous cliffs are formed of St Bees sandstone, the red rock that is so characteristic of Cumbria. Far out to sea, on the horizon, can be seen the grey shadow of the Isle of Man and, on a clear day, the shimmering outline of the Irish coast. From St Bees the 190-mile Coast to Coast Walk starts on its long journey across the Pennines to Robin Hood’s Bay in North Yorkshire. Long before the first lighthouse was built here in 1822, there was a beacon on the headland to warn and guide passing ships away from the rocks. The present 99ft high lighthouse dates from 1866, built after an earlier one was destroyed by fire. St Bees Head is now an important Nature Reserve and the cliffs are crowded with guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, gulls, gannets and skuas. Bird-watchers are well-provided for with observation and information points all along the headland. There is a superb walk of about eight miles along the coastal footpath

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they returned to Virginia; one of them, Augustin, became the father of George Washington, first President of the United States of America. Whitehaven is interesting in other ways. The grid pattern of streets dating back to the 17th century gives substance to its claim to be the first planned town in Britain. Many of the fine Georgian buildings in the centre have been restored and Lowther Street is a particularly impressive thoroughfare. Also of note is the Harbour Pier built by the canal engineer John Rennie, and considered to be one of the finest in Britain. Above the town there is a fascinating walk and a Nature Trail around Tom Hurd Rock.

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Cockermouth A Wordsworth House G William Wordsworth A Cockermouth Castle H Castlegate House I Jennings Brewery H Percy House Gallery H Kirkgate Centre B Printing House Museum B Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre

This lovely old market town hit the national headlines in November 2009 when, after the heaviest rainfall ever recorded in England, the rivers Cocker and Derwent, which join in Cockermouth, rose to a level that flooded much of the centre of the town causing huge destruction. Most of the shops, restaurants and pubs in the town centre were completely wrecked. At its peak, the water was about eight feet deep in places and more than 750 properties were flooded in Cockermouth alone. Two bridges collapsed completely and several others were deemed unsafe and closed to traffic. Currently, a vigorous programme of reparation is under way and the town council insists that “Cockermouth is open for business as usual”. Quick to recover from the flooding was the town’s broad main street, lined with trees and handsome Georgian houses, and dominated by a statue to the Earl of Mayo. The earl was Cockermouth’s MP for 10 years from 1858 before being appointed Viceroy of India. His brilliant career was brutally cut short when he was stabbed to death by a convict at a prison settlement he was inspecting on the Andaman Islands. But Cockermouth boasts two far more famous sons. Did they ever meet, one wonders, those two young lads growing up in Cockermouth in the 1770s, both of them destined to become celebrated for very different reasons? The elder boy was Fletcher

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around the headland from St Bees to Whitehaven. The route passes Saltam Bay and Saltam Pit, which dates from 1729 and was the world’s first undersea mineshaft. The original lamp house for the pit has been restored and is now used by HM Coastguard. St Bees itself is a delightful place to explore, with its main street winding up the hillside between old farms and cottages. The Priory at St Bees grew in size and importance until it was destroyed by the Danes in the 10th century: the Benedictines later re-established the priory in 1129. The Priory Church of St Mary and St Bega is all that is now left, and although it has been substantially altered, there is still a magnificent Norman arch and a preConquest carved Beowulf Stone on a lintel between the church and the vicarage, showing St Michael killing a dragon. The most stunning feature of all is much more modern, a sumptuous art nouveau metalwork screen. In the south aisle is a small museum. Close by the church are the charming Abbey Cottages and St Bees School with its handsome clock tower. The school was founded in 1583 by Edmund Grindal, Archbishop of Canterbury under Elizabeth I, and the son of a local farmer. The original red sandstone quadrangle bears his coat of arms and the bridge he gave to the village is still in use. Among the school’s most famous alumni is the actor and comedian Rowan Atkinson, creator of the ineffable Mr Bean. Like many other towns on the West Cumbrian coast, St Bees is lucky to still have a regular train service with up to 18 passenger trains daily. Two local industries are to be thanked for this: the making of railway tracks at Workington and the occasional transportation of spent nuclear waste from Sellafield, both of which required rail transport.

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Located in the heart of this historic market town, Cockermouth Art & Craft has a pleasant, interesting environment with friendly, helpful and knowledgeable staff. Browse at leisure through their extensive range of quality art and craft materials including products by Winsor & Newton, Derwent pencils, and Unison Colour Pastels to name but a few. For visitors looking for quality gifts or mementos of their visit to Cockermouth and the Lake District, the shop has a wonderful selection of prints and cards by Colin Williamson and Alex Clark. You will also find a regularly changing display of original paintings by local artists for sale in the shop’s gallery area. Half-day workshops in painting and drawing techniques are held on a regular basis in the small studio at the back of the shop – details on the website or by contacting the shop. You will find products for both traditional and contemporary craft work, including many of those hard-tofind items, and a selection of books and DVDs on various painting and drawing techniques. Cockermouth Art & Craft are also the first UK reseller of the innovative SmudgeGuard® from America. This specially-designed one-fingered glove will avoid ink or graphite smudges when you write, draw or sketch. SmudgeGuard® can also be purchased by mail order from their website. Cockermouth Art & Craft is open Mon – Sat 9am – 5pm, including Bank Holidays.

Christian, who would later lead the mutiny on the Bounty; the younger lad was William Wordsworth, born in 1770 at Lowther House on Main Street, an imposing Georgian house now maintained by the National Trust. Now known as Wordsworth House, it was built in 1745 for the Sheriff of Cumberland and then purchased by the Earl of Lowther; he let it to his land agent, John Wordsworth, William’s father. All five Wordsworth children were born Wordsworth House, Cockermouth

here, William on 7 April 1770. Many of the building’s original features survive, among them the staircase, fireplace and fine plaster ceilings. A few of the poet’s personal effects still remain; costumed actors provide insights into what life was like then. The delightful walled garden by the River Cocker has been returned to its Georgian splendour. The garden is referred to in The Prelude. Built in 1134 by the Earl of Dunbar, Cockermouth Castle saw plenty of action against Scottish raiders (Robert the Bruce himself gave it a mauling in 1315), and again during the Wars of the Roses; in the course of the Civil War it was occupied by both sides in turn. Mary, Queen of Scots, took refuge at the castle in 1568 after her defeat at the Battle of Langside. Her fortunes were so low that she was grateful for the gift of 16 ells (about 20 yards) of rich crimson velvet from a wealthy

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COCKERMOUTH ART & CRAFT 6 Main Street, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9LQ Tel: 01900 826969 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.cockermouthartandcraft.co.uk

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A friendly, welcoming coffee shop-café-bar with an enviable local and national reputation – it was voted one of the top 50 cafes in the country in the Independent newspaper in 2007. The reputation is based on high quality, award-winning coffee, expertly prepared and backed by superb home cooking and baking. The emphasis is on fair-trade and local produce served in a relaxed, informal atmosphere. Friday night features music and tapas with local musicians.

merchant. Part of the castle is still lived in by the Egremont family; the remainder is usually only open to the public during the Cockermouth Festival in July. Opposite the castle entrance, Castlegate House is a fine Georgian house, built in 1739, which hosts a changing programme of monthly exhibitions of the work of mostly Northern and Scottish artists - paintings, sculptures, ceramics and glass. To the rear of the house is a charming walled garden, which is open from time to time during the summer. Almost next door, Jennings Brewery was one of the many businesses that had to close temporarily after being inundated by the floods of November 2009. However, the last independent brewery in Cumbria re-opened within two months to once again offer visitors a 90-minute tour that ends with the option of sampling some of their ales - Cumberland Ale, Cocker Hoop or the intriguingly named Sneck Lifter. Jennings have been brewing traditional beers since the 1820s and today there are more than 100 Jennings pubs across the north of England. A short walk from the Brewery brings you to the Kirkgate Centre, which is housed in a converted Victorian primary school. Run by volunteers, the Centre offers a wide range of events and activities including live music, amateur and professional drama, films, dance,

workshops and exhibitions of art and local history. The Printing House Museum occupies a building dating back to the 16th century and follows the progress of printing from its invention by Johann Gutenberg in 1430 to the end of the letterpress era in the 1960s, when computers took over. On display is a wide range of historical presses and printing equipment, the earliest being a Cogger Press dated 1820. Visitors are offered the opportunity to gain hands-on experience by using some of the presses to produce cards or keepsakes. Another ancient building is Percy House in the Market Place. It was built in 1598 for Henry Percy, 9th Earl of Northumberland. Many of the original features still remain, including the flagged stone floor, oak beams and fireplaces. The house is now home to the Percy House Gallery, another victim of the 2009 floods. It is currently closed but is scheduled to re-open in mid-2010. It has an interesting collection of arts and crafts, including jewellery, textiles, glassware, ceramics, metalware, paintings and photographs. Located just south of the town, the Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre provides an introduction to life in the Cumbrian countryside with the help of a spectacular visual show, 19 different breeds of live sheep

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MERIENDA 7a Station St, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9QW Tel: 01900 822790

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Around Cockermouth

carp. There’s a custom-built 12-person birdwatching hide and free parking. The tarn is easily accessible from the nearby osprey watching centre at Dodd Wood.

HIGH & LOW LORTON 5 miles SE of Cockermouth on the B5289

There is a yew tree, pride of Lorton Vale... wrote Wordsworth in his poem Yew Trees, and BRIDEKIRK astonishingly it’s still there, behind the village 2 miles N of Cockermouth off the A595 hall of High Lorton. It was in its shade that H Carved Font the Quaker George Fox preached to a large Although reconstructed in the 1860s, the gathering under the watchful eye of village church contains one of the finest Cromwell’s soldiers. In its sister village, Low pieces of Norman sculpture in the country, a Lorton, set beside the River Cocker, is Lorton Carved Font with a runic inscription and a Hall (private) which is reputed to be home to mass of detailed embellishments. It dates from the ghost of a woman who carries a lighted the 12th century and the runic inscription candle. Less spectral guests in the past have states that: included King Malcolm III of Scotland who Richard he me wrought stayed here with his queen while visiting the And to this beauty eagerly me brought. southern boundaries of his Kingdom of Richard himself is shown on one side with a Strathclyde of which this area was a part. chisel and mallet. Not only is this a superb EAGLESFIELD example of early English craftsmanship, but it 2 miles SW of Cockermouth off the A5086 is exceedingly rare to find a signed work from G John Dalton this period. Ancient tombstones stand round the walls of this cruciform church and inside The most famous son of this small village is it has an unusual reredos of fleur-de-lys John Dalton who was born here in 1766. The patterned tiles. son of Quaker parents, Dalton was teaching at the village school by the time he was 12. LINSKELDFIELD Despite having had no formal education 6 miles NE of Cockermouth off the A595 or himself, he became one of the most brilliant A591 scientists, naturalists and mathematicians of his E Linskeldfield Tarn Nature Reserve age, and was the originator of the theory that all matter is composed of small indestructible Opened in 2005, Linskeldfield Tarn particles called atoms. He was also the first to Nature Reserve is home to a great variety recognise the existence of colour blindness. He of birds including goldeneye, European suffered from it himself and in medical circles widgeon, shovellers, pintail, little grebe, whooper swan and cormorant. With Skiddaw it is known as Daltonism. A memorial to this remarkable man now marks the house where he as a backdrop, the six-acre site of peat and wetland also shelters otters, red squirrels and lived in Eaglesfield. A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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and a wide variety of exhibits. The Centre also hosts indoor sheepdog trials and sheep-shearing displays for which there is a small charge. The Centre has a large gift shop selling sheepskins and various ‘sheepy’ gifts, and a café.

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problems. A footbridge was built by the Royal Engineers with 500 of them toiling non-stop for six days to complete the work. Within a A St Bridget’s Church G Fletcher Christian few weeks the town centre had been restored St Bridget’s Church, which was probably to normal, but hundreds of householders founded as part of a nunnery, contains many faced months of waiting before they could interesting features, including pre-Norman return to their properties. A new £5 million carved stones, a rare ‘fish window’ and a road bridge is scheduled to be in place by late window dedicated to the Rev John spring 2010. Wordsworth, son of William and vicar of The largest town on the Cumbrian coast, Brigham for 40 years. One of the tombs in the Workington stands at the mouth of the River graveyard is that of Charles Christian, the Derwent and on the site of the Roman fort father of Fletcher Christian, the Bounty of Gabrosentum. Its prosperity was founded mutineer. Fletcher himself was baptised in the on the three great Cumbrian industries - coal, church on the day of his birth as it was iron and shipping. In later years, Workington thought unlikely that he would survive. became famous for its fine quality steel, especially after Henry Bessemer developed his revolutionary steel-making process here in 1850. A Workington Hall G Mary, Queen of Scots The town centre has recently enjoyed a B Helena Thompson Museum £45 million face-lift, £3 million of which was spent on an innovative public art programme. A Church of St John the Evangelist The seat of the Curwen family for more E Harrington Reservoir Nature Reserve than 600 years, Workington Hall has an Like Cockermouth, Workington suffered badly interesting history. Originally built around a from the devastating floods of November 14th-century pele tower, the hall was 2009. The Northside bridge over the River Derwent collapsed completely, and a policeman who was working on it was swept into the raging waters and drowned. The failure of the bridge left the town split in two. Although children on the northern bank could see their school across the river, they faced a 12-mile road journey to reach it. The railway bridge had survived the torrent and a temporary station was erected to help St Michael’s Church - Workington alleviate the town’s transport

Workington

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BRIGHAM 2 miles W of Cockermouth off the A66

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enormous expense in 1823 to give thanks for the defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo. It is a copy of St Paul’s, Covent Garden, and its walls were built with stones from the local Schoose and Hunday quarries. The interior was splendidly restored by Sir Ninian Comper in 1931. St Michael’s is the ancient parish church, restored after a fire in 1994. Workington is at the start of the C2C (Coast to Coast) cycle route that runs to Sunderland and Newcastle. A short distance south of town is Harrington Reservoir Nature Reserve, a haven for wildlife with a rich variety of wild flowers, insects, butterflies, birds and animals.

Around Workington ALLONBY 11 miles N of Workington on the B5300 J Allerdale Way

This traditional Solway village is backed by the Lake District fells and looks out across the Solway Firth to the Scottish hills. The village has an attractive shingle and sand beach that is popular with windsurfers. The Allerdale Way and the Cumbrian Cycle Way both pass close by, and the village is also on the Smuggler’s Route trail. Smuggling seems to have been a profitable occupation around here - a government enquiry into contraband trade reported in 1730 that “the Solway people were the first working-class folk to drink tea regularly in Britain”. In the early 1800s, Allonby was a popular sea-bathing resort and the former seawater baths, built in 1835 and now Grade II listed buildings, still stand in the old Market Square. In those days, the upper floor was in regular use as a ballroom for the local nobility.

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developed over the years with extensive alterations being made in the 18th century by the then lord of the manor, John Christian Curwen. Now a stabilised ruin, it has several commemorative plaques that give a taste of the hall’s history. The most famous visitor was Mary, Queen of Scots who sought refuge here when she fled from Scotland in 1558. She stayed for a few days during which time she wrote the famous letter to her cousin Elizabeth I bemoaning her fate, “for I am in a pitiable condition.... having nothing in the world but the clothes in which I escaped”, and asking the queen “to have compassion on my great misfortunes”. The letter is now in the British Museum. Just across the road from Workington Hall is the Helena Thompson Museum, which tells the story of Workington’s coal mining, ship-building, and iron and steel industries for which the town became internationally renowned. The Georgian Room gives an insight into the variety of decorative styles that were popular between 1714 and 1830, with displays of beautiful cut-glass tableware, porcelain from China, and period pieces of furniture. Bequeathed to the town by the local philanthropist Miss Helena Thompson, the museum was opened in 1949 and contains some of her own family heirlooms. One particularly interesting exhibit is the Clifton Dish, a locally produced 18th-century piece of slipware pottery, while further displays demonstrate the links between this local industry and the famous Staffordshire pottery families. Fashionistas will be interested in the display of women’s and children’s dresses from the 1700s to the early 1900s, together with accessories and jewellery. Workington’s Church of St John the Evangelist is a very grand affair built at

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HOLME ST CUTHBERT 14 miles N of Workington off the B5300 D Tarns Dub

This inland hamlet is also known as Rowks because, in the Middle Ages, there was a chapel here dedicated to St Roche. Northeast of the hamlet, and enveloped among low hills, is a lovely 30-acre lake known as Tarns Dub, which is a haven for birdlife. A couple of miles to the southwest, the headland of Dubmill Point is popular with sea anglers. When the tide is high and driven by a fresh westerly wind, the sea covers the road with lashing waves.

MAWBRAY HAYRIGG 14 miles N of Workington off the B5300 E The Gincase

This small village is home to The Gincase, a family attraction with a Children’s Rare Breed Farm Animal Park where children can pet the animals, walk through the large parrot aviary, let off steam in the indoor and outdoor playgrounds and release more energy on the pedal go-carts. The site also has a Craft Barn selling quality handmade Cumbrian crafts, an Art Gallery that mounts regular exhibitions of work by Cumbrian artists, and a Farmhouse Tearoom serving delicious homemade food.

BECKFOOT 16 miles N of Workington on the B5300 C Bibra E Bank Mill Visitor Centre

At certain times and tides, the remains of a

prehistoric forest can be seen on the sand beds here. To the south of the village is the site of a 2nd-century Roman fort known as Bibra. According to an inscribed stone found here, it was once occupied by an Auxiliary Cohort of 500 Pannonians (Spaniards) and surrounded by a large civilian settlement. The small stream flowing into the sea was used in World War One as a fresh water supply by German Uboats. A mile or so south of Beckfoot is the Bank Mill Nurseries Visitor Centre which promises a great day out for all the family. In addition to the plant nurseries, the site contains a Tropical Butterfly House, home to the largest number of species of butterfly and moth in the world; a lizard house with species from all around the world; and a Nature Reserve that provides a refuge for the endangered natterjack toads. Foxes and badgers can also be seen and there’s a hide for birdwatchers. Also on site is the Dunes Coffee Shop, which becomes a licensed bistro in the evenings.

SILLOTH 18 miles N of Workington on the B5300 B Solway Coast Discovery Centre I Silloth Kite Festival

This charming old port and Victorian seaside resort is well worth exploring and its one-anda-half-mile-long promenade provides wonderful views of the Solway Firth and the coast of Scotland. The region’s bracing air and low rainfall helped to make Silloth a popular seaside resort. Visitors today will appreciate the invigorating but mild climate, the leisurely atmosphere, and the glorious sunsets over the sea that inspired Turner to record them for posterity. The town, with its tree-lined streets, remains a delightful place to stroll, to admire the sunken rose garden, the pinewoods and

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Allonby still keeps much of its Georgian and early Victorian charm with cobbled lanes, alleyways, and some interesting old houses. It was also an important centre for herring fishing and some of the old kippering houses can still be seen.

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MARYPORT 6 miles NE of Workington on the A596 B Senhouse Roman Museum B Maritime Museum E The Lake District Coast Aquarium

Dramatically located on the Solway Firth, Maryport is a charming Cumbrian coastal town rich in interest and maritime history. The

old part is full of narrow streets and neoclassical, Georgian architecture, most notably in Fleming Square. Some of the first visitors to Maryport were the Romans who built a clifftop fort here, Alauna, which is now part of the Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage Site. The award-winning Senhouse Roman Museum tells the story of life in this outpost of the empire. Housed in the striking Naval Reserve Battery, built in the 1880s, the museum holds the largest collection of Roman altars from a single site in Britain. Modern Maryport dates from the 18th century when Humphrey Senhouse, a local landowner, developed the harbour at what was then called Ellenport to export coal from his mines, and named the new port after his wife, Mary. Over the next century it became a busy port as well as a ship-building centre; boats had to be launched broadside because of the narrowness of the harbour channel. The town declined, along with the mining industry, from the 1930s onwards. It nevertheless attracted the artist LS Lowry, who was a frequent visitor and loved painting the harbour. Today, Maryport is enjoying a well-earned revival, with newly restored Georgian quaysides, clifftop paths, sandy beaches and a harbour with fishing boats. The town’s extensive maritime history is preserved in the vast array of objects, pictures and models on display at the Maritime Museum overlooking the harbour. Housed in another of Maryport’s more interesting and historic buildings, the former Queen’s Head public house, the museum tells of the rise and fall of the harbour and docks. Other exhibits include a brass telescope from the Cutty Sark and the town’s connections with the ill-fated liner, the Titanic, and with Fletcher Christian, instigator of the mutiny on the Bounty. The

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the busy dock where local fishermen offload their catches of Solway shrimps. With the coming of the railways in the 1850s, Silloth developed as a port and railhead for Carlisle. The railway company helped to develop the town and had grey granite shipped over in its own vessels from Ireland to build the handsome church that is such a prominent landmark. Another attractive feature is the 36acre green, which is the setting for the Silloth Kite Festival in July when you can watch experts flying kites with one, two and four lines, team formation kites, giant kites, and even a display of the unusual sport of kite buggying. Music, storytelling and entertainment are all included in this free festival. Other regular events include a market on Thursday and Sunday, and on August Bank Holiday Monday, the town’s annual Carnival. Silloth’s 18-hole golf course was the home course where Miss Cecil Leitch (1891-1978), the most celebrated woman golfer of her day, used to play. Another keen woman golfer was the great contralto, Kathleen Ferrier, who stayed in the town for part of her tragically short life. One of the most popular attractions is the Solway Coast Discovery Centre, where Auld Michael the Monk and Oyk the Oystercatcher guide visitors through 10,000 years of Solway Coast history. There’s also a mini-cinema presenting a film tour of the Solway Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

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lies in the elaborate Memorial Fountain to ‘Watery Wilfred’, Sir Wilfred Lawson MP (1829-1906), a lifelong crusader for the Temperance Movement and International Peace. According to one writer, “No man in his day made more people laugh at Temperance meetings”. Also worth a visit is the Church of St Kentigern built in the 1840s in the Early English style. It is approached by way of a fine avenue of yew trees and inside are several ancient relics, including a 12th-century font with intricate carvings, a Viking hogback tombstone, and a grave cover with a pagan swastika engraving. One of the town’s major employers is Dairy Crest, which has a large Creamery on the edge of town. It produces some 80 tonnes of various cheeses every day.

DEARHAM 9 miles NE of Workington off the A594 E Lakeland Heavy Horse Centre

The Lakeland Heavy Horse Centre provides an opportunity of getting close to these magnificent beasts, learn about their lives and witness some of the work they do. Breeds on show here include Clydesdales, Shires, Percherons, Ardennes and the very rare Suffolk Punch. Cart and trap rides are available, there’s a café and gift shop, pets’ corner, an attractive play area and playground equipment, and picnic facilities.

ASPATRIA 14 miles NE of Workington on the A596 A Memorial Fountain G Sir Wilfred Lawson A Church of St Kentigern

Lying above the shallow Ellen Valley, Aspatria’s main interest for most visitors

St Kentigern’s Church, Aspatria

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Titanic was part of the fleet of the White Star Line, which was founded by a Maryport man, Thomas Henry Ismay; Fletcher Christian was also more or less a local man, being born at nearby Brigham in 1764. Close by the museum is The Lake District Coast Aquarium where a series of spectacular living habitat re-creations introduces visitors to the profusion of marine life found in the Solway Firth - thornback rays (which can be touched), some small sharks, spider crabs and the comically ugly tompot blenny among them. Also on site are a Harbourside Café, gift shop, radio-controlled model boat pool and miniature golf. North of Maryport, the Solway Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty extends for some 15 miles to the town of Silloth.

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G Melvyn Bragg C Olenacum

For centuries, Wigton has been the centre of the business and social life of the Solway coast and plain, its prosperity being based on the weaving of cotton and linen. It has enjoyed the benefits of a Royal Charter since 1262 and the market is still held on Tuesdays. Horse sales are held every April (riding horses and ponies) and October (Clydesdales, heavy horses and ponies). Today, most of the old town is a Conservation Area and, particularly along Main Street, the upper storeys of the houses have survived in an almost unaltered state. On street corners, metal guards to prevent heavy horse-drawn wagons damaging the walls can still be seen. In the triangular market place is an elaborate 19th century fountain erected in 1872 by a Mr George Moore in memory of his wife. Constructed of Cumbrian granite, it features four fine bronze reliefs of the Acts of Mercy by the PreRaphaelite sculptor Thomas Woolner. Two buildings in the town are particularly striking: the Catholic Church of St Cuthbert in King Street, dating from 1837, which has an impressive frontage; and Highmoor Mansion, which was built in 1885 and has a lofty tower housing a clock and a carillon. It is now divided into private flats. Wigton was the birthplace in 1939 of the author and broadcaster Melvyn Bragg, many of whose books have a strong Cumbrian element. He attended the Nelson Thomlinson School in Wigton. One mile south of Wigton are the scant remains of the Roman fort of Olenacum; most of its stones were removed to rebuild Wigton in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Around Wigton ABBEYTOWN 5 miles W of Wigton on the B5302 A Abbey of Holm Cultram A Church of St Mary

As its name suggests, Abbeytown grew up around the 12th-century Abbey of Holm Cultram on the River Waver and many of the town’s buildings are constructed of stone taken from the abbey when it fell into ruins. Further damage was caused in June 2006 when vandals started a fire that spread quickly to the roof timbers. Within an hour the roof had collapsed but most of the stained glass survived. Restoration of the roof was completed in the spring of 2008. The red sandstone Church of St Mary is still the parish church and was restored in 1883, a strange yet impressive building with the original nave shorn of its tower, transepts

Abbey of Holm, Abbeytown

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Wigton

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SKINBURNESS 11 miles W of Wigton off the B5302 J Allerdale Ramble E Grune Point

A lively market town in the Middle Ages, Skinburness was used by Edward I in 1299 as a base for his navy when attacking the Scots. A few years later a terrible storm destroyed the town and what survived became a small fishing hamlet. From nearby Grune Point, the start of the Allerdale Ramble, there are some tremendous views over the Solway Firth and the beautiful, desolate expanse of marshland and sandbank. Grune Point, which was once the site of a Roman fort, now forms part of a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest notable for the variety of its birdlife and marsh plants.

NEWTON ARLOSH 5 miles NW of Wigton on the B5307 A Fortified Church

Situated on the Solway marshes, the village was first established by the monks of Holm Cultram Abbey in 1307 after the old port at Skinburness had been destroyed by the sea. The village church is one of the most delightful examples of a Cumbrian Fortified Church. In the Middle Ages, there was no castle nearby to protect the local population from the border raids and so a pele tower was

added to the church. As an additional defensive measure, the builders created what is believed to be the narrowest church doorway in the country, barely two feet seven inches across and a little over five feet high. The 12inch arrow-slot east window is also the smallest in England. After the Reformation, the church became derelict but was finally restored in the 19th century. Inside, there is a particularly fine eagle lectern carved out of bog oak.

Keswick and the Northern Lakes For many visitors this part of the county is classic Lakeland, the scenery dominated by the rounded, heather-clad slopes of the Skiddaw range to the north of Keswick, and the wild, craggy mountains of Borrowdale, to the south. Despite this area’s popularity, there are still many hidden places to discover and many opportunities to leave the beaten track. The major town, Keswick, on the shores of Derwent Water, is a pleasant Lakeland town that has much to offer the visitor. The lake too, is interesting as, not only is it in a near perfect setting, but it is unusual in having some islands - in this case four. It was the view over the lake from Friar’s Crag that formed one of John Ruskin’s early childhood memories. The area is also rich in history, from prehistoric times through Roman occupation to the period of industrial growth. The Lakeland Fells are home to Herdwick sheep, one of the country’s hardiest breeds. Their coarse fleece cannot be dyed, but Herdwick sheep of various ages yield wool in a variety of subtle shades of grey and black, which produces an unusual and very durable tweed-like weave.

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and chancel. The east and west walls are heavily buttressed, and a porch with a new roof protects the original Norman arch of the west door. Within the church buildings is a room, opened by Princess Margaret in 1973, which contains the gravestone of Robert the Bruce’s father. Nearby, there are some lovely walks along the River Waver, which is particularly rich in wildlife.

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C Castlerigg Stone Circle A Moot Hall B Museum and Art Gallery H Rock, Bell & Steel Band B Cumberland Pencil Museum B Keswick Mining Museum H The Teapottery I The Puzzling Place B Cars of the Stars Museum I Theatre by the Lake A Derwent Island House D Friar’s Crag J Keswick Railway Footpath

For generations, visitors to Keswick have been impressed by the town’s stunningly beautiful setting, surrounded by the great fells of Saddleback, Helvellyn and Grizedale Pike. Tourism, now the town’s major industry, actually began in the mid-1700s and was given a huge boost by the Lakeland Poets in the early 1800s. The arrival of the railway in 1865 firmly established Keswick as the undisputed ‘capital’ of the Lake District, with most of the area’s notable attractions within easy reach. The grandeur of the lakeland scenery is of course the greatest draw but, among the manmade features, one not to be missed is the well-preserved Castlerigg Stone Circle. About a mile to the east of the town, the 38 standing stones, some of them eight feet high,

form a circle 100 feet in diameter. They are believed to have been put in place some 4000 years ago and occupy a hauntingly beautiful position. Beautiful, but forbidding, as evoked by Keats in his poem Hyperion: A dismal cirque of Druid stones, upon a forlorn moor, When the chill rain begins at shut of eve, In dull November, and their chancel vault, The Heaven itself, is blinded throughout night. Keswick old town developed along the banks of the broad River Greta, with a wide main street leading up to the attractive Moot Hall, which now houses the town’s and the National Park’s tourist information centres. A little further south, in St John’s Street, the church of that name was built in the very same year as Moot Hall and its elegant spire provides a point of reference from all around the town. In the churchyard is the grave of Sir Hugh Walpole, whose once hugely popular series of novels, The Herries Chronicles (19301933), is set in this part of the Lake District. In the riverside Fitz Park is the town’s Museum and Art Gallery, which is well worth a visit, not just to see original manuscripts by Wordsworth and other lakeland poets, but also for the astonishing

Castlerigg Stone Circle, Keswick

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Keswick

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here, established in 1832, is still operating although the wadd, or lead, is now imported. At the Keswick Mining Museum nine rooms are filled with exhibits portraying Cumbria’s mining history from the Stone Age to the present day. For an additional small fee, visitors can try their hand at panning for gold. The museum also has a shop selling new and second-hand books on topics related to mining. Other attractions in the town centre include the Cars of the Stars Museum, home to such gems as Laurel and Hardy’s Model T Ford, James Bond’s Aston Martin, Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, Batman’s Batmobile, Lady Penelope’s pink Rolls-Royce FAB 1, the Mad Max car, Mr Bean’s Mini and Harry Potter’s Ford Anglia. There are film set displays and vehicles from series such as The Saint, Knightrider, Bergerac and Postman Pat, and Del

SUNNYSIDE GUEST HOUSE 25 Southey Street, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 4EF Tel: 017687 72446 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.sunnysideguesthouse.com Sunnyside, owned by Sean and Anne O’Farrell, is a stylish, Victorian Guest House set in a quiet area within easy walking distance of the town centre with its many restaurants, pubs and cafes and The Theatre by the Lake. The bedrooms have all been refurbished to a high standard and offer refreshment-making facilities, hairdryer and digital televisions. There are a mixture of double and twin rooms – all ensuite. Special occasions can be catered for with chocolates, flowers and champagne ordered by guests. There is parking for up to 8 cars on site, meaning guests do not have to worry about parking their cars on Keswick’s busy streets. Almost uniquely, Sunnyside retains a large guest lounge with comfy sofas, plenty of books, magazines and games for those odd damp Cumbrian days! The hearty breakfast, cooked to order and served at individual tables in the light and airy dining room, uses fresh Cumbrian produce where available and includes a vegetarian option. “This is a really top class guest house. The rooms are beautifully decorated and have good quality fittings throughout. Breakfast is superb with locally sourced produce. We received a very friendly welcome and would definitely visit again. Highly recommended.”

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Rock, Bell and Steel Band created by Joseph Richardson of Skiddaw in the 19th century. Variously described as a stone dulcimer, rock harmonicon or geological piano, it’s a kind of xylophone made of 60 stones (some a yard long), 60 steel bars and 40 bells. Four ‘musicians’ are required to play this extraordinary instrument. It was once taken to London to be played for Queen Victoria. Surrounded by a loop of the River Greta to the northwest of the town is a museum that must be pencilled in on any visit to Keswick. This is the Cumberland Pencil Museum, which boasts the six-feet-long Largest Pencil in the World. The ‘lead’ used in pencils (not lead at all but actually an allotrope of carbon) was accidentally discovered by a Borrowdale shepherd in the 16th century and Keswick eventually became the world centre for the manufacture of lead pencils. The pencil mill

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Boy’s 3-wheel Reliant from Only Fools and Horses is there, too. The Teapottery makes and sells a bizarre range of practical teapots in the shape of anything from an upright piano to an Aga stove. Keswick’s most recent visitor attraction to open is The Puzzling Place, an ingenious display of mind-bending illusions, including computer video clips, three-dimensional holograms and an anti-gravity room where everything you’ve learned about gravity will be turned on its head as you watch water flow uphill and other impossibilities. There’s also a large selection of puzzles, brain-teasers and associated novelty goods for sale. A short walk from the town centre, along Lake Road, leads visitors to the popular Theatre by the Lake, which hosts a yearround programme of plays, concerts, exhibitions, readings and talks. Close by is the pier from which there are regular departures for cruises around Derwent Water and ferries across the lake to Nichol End where you can hire just about every kind of water craft, including your own private cruise boat. One trip is to the National Trust’s Derwent Island House, an Italianate house of the 1840s on an idyllic wooded island. Entry is by timed ticket

only. Another short walk will bring the visitor to Friar’s Crag. This famous view of Derwent Water and its islands, now National Trust property, formed one of John Ruskin’s early childhood memories, inspiring in him “intense joy, mingled with awe”. Inscribed on his memorial here are these words: “The first thing which I remember as an event in life was being taken by my nurse to the brow of Friar’s Crag on Derwentwater.” The Crag is dedicated to the memory of Canon Rawnsley, the local vicar who was one of the founder members of the National Trust, which he helped to set up in 1895. The four-mile long Keswick Railway Footpath follows the track bed of the former Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway, which closed to traffic in 1972. This easy trail passes through the lovely Greta Gorge to the charming village of Threlkeld. Keswick is host to several annual festivals, covering films, Cumbrian literature, jazz and beer. And on the first Sunday in December a colourful Christmassy Fayre is held in the Market Place.

Around Keswick ULDALE 11 miles N of Keswick off the A591 H Northern Fells Gallery

To the northeast of Bassenthwaite Lake stretches the area known locally as the Land Back of Skidda, a crescent of fells and valleys constituting the most northerly part of the Lake District National Park. This peaceful region is well off the tourist track and offers

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Derwent Water, Keswick

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CALDBECK 13 miles N of Keswick on the B5299 G John Peel A Priest’s Mill H The Wool Clip D The Howk

Caldbeck is perhaps the best-known village in the northern Lakes because of its associations with John Peel, the famous huntsman who died in 1854 after falling from his horse. His ornate tombstone in the churchyard is decorated with depictions of hunting horns and his favourite hound. Also buried here are John Peel’s wife Mary and their four children. John Peel was Master of Hounds for more than 50 years and was immortalised by his friend John Woodcutt Graves, who worked in a Caldbeck mill making the grey woollen cloth mentioned in the famous song - “D’ye ken John Peel with his coat so grey?” The tune itself is based on an old Cumbrian folk song adapted by William Metcalfe, a chorister and organist at Carlisle Cathedral. A few paces from Peel’s tomb lies ‘The Fair Maid of Buttermere’, (see Buttermere) whose grave bears her married name, Mary Harrison. With its picturesque church, village green, cricket pitch, pond and blacksmith’s

forge, Caldbeck has all the ingredients of a picture postcard village. Some 200 years ago, Caldbeck was an industrial village with corn mills, woollen mills and a paper mill, all powered by the fast-flowing ‘cold stream’ the Caldbeck. Priest’s Mill, built in 1702 by the Rector of Caldbeck, next to his church, was a stone grinding corn mill, powered by a water wheel that has now been restored to working order. It is open to the public and has an accompanying Mining Museum, a collection of old rural implements and an excellent tea room. Also at the mill is The Wool Clip, the retail outlet for a local cooperative of farmers and craft workers producing high quality items using wool from local sheep. About a quarter of a mile outside the village is the limestone gorge known as The Howk, a popular beauty spot where the Caldbeck rushes past the ruins of one of the old bobbin mills.

HESKET NEWMARKET 13 miles N of Keswick off the B5305 H Hesket Newmarket Brewery

Set around a well-kept village green, this pleasing little village used to have its own market, as the name suggests, and much earlier there was probably also a racecourse here since that is what Hesket meant in Old Scandinavian. It could well be the reason why the village’s main street is so wide. Although the market is no longer held, Hesket hosts two important agricultural events each year: an Agricultural Show and Sheepdog Trials. There’s also a vintage motor cycle rally in May. In a converted barn at the back of the Old Crown pub, Hesket Newmarket Brewery was set up in 1988 and beer sales, which were at first limited to the pub, soon spread across

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visitors a delightful landscape of gently undulating bare-backed fells and valleys sheltering unspoilt villages such as Uldale. The village boasts a friendly traditional pub, The Snooty Fox, and a Victorian school, which now houses the Northern Fells Gallery & Tea Room where a wide range of work by Cumbrian artists - watercolours, jewellery, copperwork, ceramics, knitwear and woodcarvings - can be seen, all available to buy. This tranquil village has one small claim to fame, it was the daughter of an Uldale farmer who eloped with and married the legendary huntsman John Peel (see Caldbeck).

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THRELKELD 4 miles E of Keswick off the A66 D Blencathra B Threlkeld Quarry & Mining Museum

This delightful village, set in a plain at the foot of mighty Blencathra, provides the eastern terminus of the Keswick Railway Footpath. The village is also the ideal starting point for a number of mountain walks, including an ascent of Blencathra, one of the most exciting of all the Lake District mountains. Threlkeld is famous for its annual sheepdog trials, though its economy was built up on the several mines in the area and the granite quarry to the south. At Threlkeld Quarry & Mining Museum visitors can browse through the collection of vintage excavators, old quarry machinery and other mining artefacts, wander through the locomotive shed and machine shop, or join the 40-minute tour through a re-created mine. The museum has interpretive displays of Lakeland geology and

Thirlemere

quarrying and is used as a teaching facility by several university geology departments.

MATTERDALE END 8 miles E of Keswick on the A5091 This tiny hamlet lies at one end of Matterdale, a valley that is an essential stop on any Wordsworth trail: it was here, on 15 April 1802, that he and his sister saw that immortal Host of golden daffodils, Beside the lake, beneath the trees, Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

THIRLMERE 4 miles S of Keswick off the A591 D Helvellyn

This attractive, tree-lined lake, one of the few in the Lakes that can be driven around as well as walked around, was created in the 1890s by Manchester Corporation. More than 100 miles of pipes and tunnels still supply the city with water from Thirlmere. The creation of the huge Thirlmere Reservoir, five miles long, flooded the two hamlets of Armboth and Wythburn. All that remains of these places today is Wythburn chapel towards the southern end. Overlooking the narrow lake is Helvellyn, Wordsworth’s favourite mountain and one that is very popular with walkers and climbers today. At 3116 feet, it is one of just four Lakeland fells over 3000 feet high, and the walk to the summit should not be undertaken lightly, but those reaching the top will be rewarded with some spectacular views. The eastern aspect of the mountain is markedly different from the western as it was here that the Ice Age glaciers were sheltered from the mild, west winds.

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Cumbria. Many awards have come the way of Hesket Newmarket beers, which include Skiddaw Special Bitter, the nearly black Great Cockup Porter and the pale but potent Catbells Pale Ale.

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D Lodore Falls C Bowder Stone D Honister Pass B Honister Slate Mine

“The Mountains of Borrowdale are perhaps as fine as anything we have seen,” wrote John Keats in 1818. Six miles long, this brooding, mysterious valley, steep and narrow with towering crags and deep woods, is generally regarded as the most beautiful in the Lake District. Just to the south of Derwent Water are the Lodore Falls, where the Watendlath Beck drops some 120 feet before reaching the lake. Further along the dale, in woodland owned by the National Trust, stands the extraordinary Bowder Stone, which provides an irresistible photo-opportunity for most visitors. A massive 50-foot square and weighing almost 2000 tons, it stands precariously on one corner apparently defying gravity. Just south of Rosthwaite the road turns westwards to the village of Seatoller where there’s a National Park Information Centre, and a minor road turns off to Seathwaite, which enjoys the unenviable reputation of being the wettest place in England with an average of 131 inches a year. From Seatoller, the B5289 slices through the spectacular Honister Pass, overlooked by dramatic 1000-foot-high Honister Crag. At the top of the pass, the 18th-century Honister Slate Mine has been re-opened and is once again producing the beautiful green slate that adorns so many Lakeland houses and is famous throughout the world. Buckingham Palace, The Ritz, New Scotland Yard and RAF Cranwell are among the prestigious buildings decorated with this stone. Helmets and lights are provided for a guided tour through great caverns of the mine to show how a mixture of modern and traditional methods is still

extracting the slate, which was formed here some 400 million years ago.

BUTTERMERE 8 miles SW of Keswick on the B5289 D Buttermere F The Fair Maid of Buttermere A Church of St James

Half the size of its neighbour, Crummock Water, Buttermere is a beautiful lake set in a dramatic landscape. To many connoisseurs of the Lake District landscape, this is the most splendid of them all. The walk around Buttermere opens up superb views of the eastern towers of Fleetwith Pike and the great fell wall made up of High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike. The Fish Inn at Buttermere is one of the oldest in Lakeland and also features in the ofttold tale of The Fair Maid of Buttermere. In the late 1790s the landlord’s daughter, Mary Robinson, so enchanted a visiting travel writer by her stunning beauty that he sang her praises in his book A Fortnight’s Ramble in the Lake District. A few years later another visitor, who claimed to be Colonel Hope, brother of the Earl of Hopetoun, was also smitten by the fair maid. He wooed her and ingratiated himself with her parents who had no objection to their daughter marrying into the aristocracy. In fact, the captain was an impostor by the name of John Hatfield. He was also a bigamist and an undischarged bankrupt. His exposure came about because the local correspondent for the London Sun, a certain Samuel Taylor Coleridge, considered the marriage as worthy of notice and wrote a piece about it. The real Colonel Hope was alerted and Hatfield was arrested, convicted and hanged. The most recent author to recount the tale is Melvyn Bragg in his The Maid of Buttermere (1987). Standing above Buttermere village is the

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BORROWDALE Runs South from Keswick via the B5289

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CRUMMOCK WATER 9 miles SW of Keswick on the B5289

LOWESWATER 10 miles W of Keswick off the B5289

Fed by both Buttermere and Loweswater, this is by far the largest of the three lakes. In this less frequented part of western Cumbria, where there are few roads, the attractions of Crummock Water can usually be enjoyed in solitude. Best seen from the top of Rannerdale Knotts, to the east, the lake has a footpath running around it though, in places, the going gets a little strenuous.

Reached by narrow winding lanes, Loweswater is one of the smaller lakes, framed in an enchanting fellside and forest setting. Because it is so shallow, never more than 60 feet deep, Loweswater provides an ideal habitat for wildfowl, which also benefit from the fact that this is perhaps the least visited lake in the whole of Cumbria. To the east of the lake lies the small village of the same name, while to the north stretches one of the quietest and least known parts of the National Park, a landscape of low fells through which there are few roads or even paths.

St James’s Church, Buttermere

BRAITHWAITE 3 miles W of Keswick on the B5292 D Whinlatter Pass D Whinlatter Forest Park E Lake District Osprey Project

This small village lies at the foot of the Whinlatter Pass, another of Cumbria’s dramatic routes. The summit of this steep road, the B5292, is some 1043 feet above sea level. On the westerly descent, there are magnificent views over Bassenthwaite Lake. The road runs through the Whinlatter Forest Park, one of the Forestry Commission’s

BASSENTHWAITE LAKE 4 miles NW of Keswick on the A66 E Trotters World of Animals D Skiddaw A Church of St Bridget and St Bega A Mirehouse

Here’s one for the pub quiz: Which is the only lake in the Lake District? Answer: Bassenthwaite, because all the others are either waters or meres. Only 70 feet deep and with

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small, picturesque Church of St James where the special features of interest include an antique organ and a memorial to fellwalker and author Alfred Wainwright. It is placed near a window that looks out on his favourite place to walk, Haystacks, where his ashes were scattered.

oldest woodlands, which has a Visitor Centre, trails and walks for all ages and abilities, an orienteering course, adventure playground, viewpoints, gift shop and a tearoom with a terrace overlooking the woodlands and valley. Many of the record numbers who visit the centre come to see live footage of the Lake District ospreys beamed to a viewing facility, or to see the birds through high-powered telescopes at the Dodd Wood viewing point. The Lake District Osprey Project is a partnership of the Forestry Commission, the Lake District National Park Authority and the RSPB whose aim is to protect the nesting ospreys and to encourage others to settle and breed in other suitable locations.

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clear day, there are spectacular views to Scotland in the north, the Isle of Man in the west, the Pennines to the east and, to the south, the greater part of the Lake District. Also on the eastern shore is the secluded, originally Norman, Church of St Bridget and St Bega which Tennyson had in mind when, in his poem Morte d’Arthur, he describes Sir Bedivere carrying the dead King Arthur: to a chapel in the fields, A broken chancel with a broken cross, That stood on a dark strait of barren land. This then would make Bassenthwaite Lake the resting place of Excalibur but, as yet, no one has reported seeing a lady’s arm, “clothed in white samite, mystic, wonderful”, rising from the waters and holding aloft the legendary sword. Set back from the lakeside and with a backdrop of wooded hills, Mirehouse is a 17th-century building that has been home to the Spedding family since 1688. Literary visitors to the house included Tennyson, Thomas Carlyle and Edward Fitzgerald, the poet and translator of The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam. As well as some manuscripts by these family friends, the house also has a fine collection of furniture, and visitors can wander around the wildflower meadow, the walled garden and the lakeside walk, or sample home-cooked Cumbrian food in the tearoom.

In and Around Penrith D Ullswater

Penrith is the most historic of Lakeland towns and was almost certainly settled long before the Romans arrived. They quickly appreciated its strategic position on the main west coast artery linking England and Scotland and built

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borders rich in vegetation, Bassenthwaite provides an ideal habitat for birds - more than 70 species have been recorded around the lake. Successful breeding is encouraged by the fact that no power boats are allowed on the lake and some areas are off limits to boats of any kind. Also, most of the shoreline is privately owned, with public access restricted mostly to the eastern shore where the Allerdale Ramble follows the lakeside for a couple of miles or so. At the northern end of the lake, at Coalbeck Farm, Trotters World of Animals is home to many hundreds of animals - rare breeds, traditional farm favourites, endangered species, birds of prey and reptiles. It has the only Canadian Lynx in the UK, the largest of all monkeys - the mandrills - and the smallest otter in the world, as well as a cat that likes to swim - the Asian Fishing Cat. In addition to the ringtailed lemurs, wallabies, racoons and gibbons, there are also rough-coated lemurs, lechwe antelope, red, fallow and sika deer and guanaco. Visitors to the 25-acre site can bottle-feed baby animals, cuddle bunnies, meet Monty the python, take a tractor trailer ride, watch the birds of prey demonstrations, find a quiet picnic spot or sample the fare on offer in Trotters Tea Room. And for the smaller children there’s an indoor soft play climbing centre. Rising grandly above Bassenthwaite’s eastern shore is Skiddaw, which, ever since the Lake District was opened up to tourists by the arrival of the railway in the 19th century, has been one of the most popular peaks to climb. Although it rises to some 3054 feet, the climb is both safe and manageable, if a little unattractive lower down, and typically takes around two hours. From the summit, on a

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Penrith A Penrith Castle A St Andrew’s Church C Giant’s Grave G William Wordsworth B Penrith Museum B Rheged Discovery Centre A Beacon Hill Pike E Cowraik

In Saxon times Penrith was the capital of the

Kingdom of Cumbria, but after the Normans arrived the town seems to have been rather neglected - it was sacked several times by the Scots before Penrith Castle was finally built in the 1390s. Richard, Duke of Gloucester (later Richard III) strengthened the castle’s defences when he was Lord Warden of the Western Marches and was responsible for keeping the peace along the border with Scotland. By the time of the Civil War, however, the castle was in a state of ruin. The Cromwellian General Lambert demolished much of what was left and the townspeople helped themselves to the fallen stones to build their own houses. Nevertheless, the ruins remain impressive, standing high above a steep-sided moat. A short walk from the castle leads to the centre of this lively town with its charming mixture of narrow streets and wideopen spaces. Penrith has a splendid Georgian church in a very attractive churchyard, surrounded by a number of interesting buildings. The oldest part of St Andrew’s Church dates from Norman times, but the most recent part, the nave, was rebuilt between 1719 and 1772, possibly to a design by Nicholas Hawksmoor. Pevsner described it as “the stateliest church of its time in the county”. Of particular interest is the three-sided gallery and the two chandeliers, which were a gift from the Duke

THE COUNTRY COFFEE SHOP 15/16 Princes Street, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 7AB Tel: 01768 210100 Opened in 2002, The Country Coffee Shop is now wellestablished and noted for the quality of its appetising homemade food. Chef Helen cooks everything to order and her extensive menu ranges from a selection of breakfasts, through light lunches, home-made soup of the day, freshly-made sandwiches and oven-baked potatoes, to tea-time treats such as a cream tea with a slice of home-made cake. There’s a good choice of drinks, including Fairtrade coffees and speciality teas. The shop also sells free range eggs.

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a fort nearby, although nothing visible remains today. Most of the town’s oldest buildings have also disappeared, victims of the incessant Border conflicts down the centuries. Penrith today is a busy place, its location close to the M6 and within easy reach not only of the Lakes but also the Border Country and the Yorkshire Dales, making it a hub of this northwestern corner of England. Only a few miles from the town, Ullswater, eight miles long and the second longest lake in Cumbria, is also one of its most beautiful. The area around Penrith has some interesting old buildings, notably Shap Abbey and Brougham Castle, as well as two outstanding stately homes, Hutton-in-the-Forest where the Inglewood family have lived since 1605, and Dalemain, a fine mixture of medieval, Tudor and Georgian architecture. Sadly, Greystoke Castle, which according to Edgar Rice Burroughs was the ancestral home of Tarzan, is not open to the public.

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9a King Street, Penrith Cumbria, CA11 7AJ

THE WOOD WORKSHOP 7&8 Redhills Business Park, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0DT Tel: 01768 899895 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.woodworkshop.co.uk ‘Cabinet Makers of Penrith’ Since 2002 the Wood Workshop has been making furniture from the best-quality seasoned hardwoods. Richard Harrison’s firm has established a wide reputation for quality and workmanship but remains small enough to meet the individual design needs of its clients. Ideas are fully discussed, easy-tofollow drawings are produced and detailed quotations supplied. The wood is mainly oak, elm, ash and beech, a large proportion grown in Cumbria and the Borders. It is air-dried for a considerable time before being kiln-dried at the workshops. Each piece of timber is carefully chosen to ensure its suitability for a centrally heated home. Individual parts are cut and grain-matched before the craftsmen apply their skills and experience in making the item. A number of coats of oil are applied to the completed piece, which is then wax-polished to bring out the best in the colour and natural markings of the wood, creating a hardwearing, durable and renewable finish. Commissions can include some or all of the following: hidden compartments; bookmatched panels; burr inlays; cross banding; mother-of-pearl inlays; and gold/silver knobs and handles.

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The Adlib collection offers something different for real women size 10 – 18. Our clothes and accessories are hand picked from the London Designer Shows. We stock a range of fashions, beautiful textiles and flattering shapes from Masai, Sandwich, Noa Noa and others. We also provide a friendly and personal service, helping our customers choose the right colours, shapes and accessories for any and every occasion. Established in 2004 by Gail Bashall, Adlib has developed a varied and loyal customer base and continues to inspire visitors and regulars alike.

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most illustrious pupils were William Wordsworth, his sister Dorothy, and his future wife, Mary Hutchinson. William is also commemorated by a plaque on the wall of the Robin Hood Inn stating that he was a guest there in 1794 and again in 1795. Occupying a listed building erected in 1670 for the education of poor girls, Penrith Museum features the archaeology, art, social, cultural and natural history of the area. About a mile west of Penrith, on the A66, Rheged Discovery Centre dedicates itself to “a celebration of 2000 years of Cumbria’s history, mystery and magic - as never seen before”. Named after Cumbria’s Celtic Kingdom, this extraordinary grass-covered building is also home to Britain’s only exhibition dedicated to mountains and mountain adventure. It also has a giant cinema

THE GEM DEN 31 King Street, Penrith CA11 7AY Tel: 01768 899989 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.thegemden.co.uk Ever thought of making a pet of a trilobite? As Sue Kane of The Gem Den points out “They’re lovable and easy to care for!” At Sue’s “treasure trove of gems there are plenty of other striking and unusual items. She always stocks large crystal display pieces as well as small tumbled stones. Amongst the jewellery items are many pieces in sterling silver set with beautiful semi-precious stones. Sue also enjoys experimenting with shapes and colours to create pieces such as earrings or a necklace to match your own clothes - some can even be made for you while you visit the town. At the Gem Den there is also a wide selection of freshwater pearl necklaces and earings - the perfect choice in wedding jewellery. The Cubic Zircona and Swarovski crystal pieces would also please the bride. The Gem Den is located on King Street, the main road (A6) into Penrith and is open from 10am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday except for Bank Holidays. Penrith itself is just off the M6 at junction 40.

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of Portland in 1745, a reward for the town’s loyalty during the Jacobite Rising. A tablet on the wall records the deaths of 2260 citizens of Penrith in the plague of 1597. The church’s most interesting feature however, is to be found in the churchyard, in the curious group of gravestones known as Giant’s Grave - two ancient cross-shafts, each 11 feet high, and four 10th-century hogback tombstones, which have arched tops and sharply sloping sides. According to a local legend, the stones mark the burial place of a 5th-century King of Cumbria, Owen Caesarius. Also buried somewhere in the churchyard is Wordsworth’s mother, but her grave is not marked. Overlooking the churchyard is a splendid Tudor house, bearing the date 1563, it was at one time Dame Birkett’s School. The school’s

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Dolly Mixtures, Aniseed Balls, Liquorice Satins, all in large glass jars - those with long memories will remember fondly the sweetshops of their childhood. For them, a visit to The Corner Shop in Penrith will be like stepping back in time. Opened in 1938, this delightful shop has been an Aladdin’s cave of sweet memorabilia. What’s your favourite... Cherry Lips? Strawberry Bonbons? Chewing Nuts? Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls? Black Bullets (Jesmona)? The original Lions Midget Gems and Sports Mix - the black ones are still liquorice flavour! They are all here along with many other varieties. Owners Simon and Brenda Davidson are constantly increasing the range of sweets on offer. They spend a lot of time scouring for the original high quality sweets people remember from years ago, and say firmly “We don’t sell the cheap imitation variety!” Following the success of the Penrith shop, Brenda and Simon opened their second shop in a small courtyard called Packhorse Court in Keswick. Here they are able to display an even wider selection with some 220 varieties of jarred sweets on offer.

screen, speciality shops, pottery demonstrations, an artists exhibition area, restaurants and a children’s play area. Penrith is dominated by Beacon Hill Pike, which stands amidst wooded slopes high above the town. The tower was built in 1719 and marks the place where, from 1296, beacons were lit to warn the townsfolk of an impending attack. The beacon was last lit during the Napoleonic wars in 1804 and was seen by the author Sir Walter Scott who was visiting Cumberland at the time. Seeing it prompted Scott to hasten home to rejoin his local volunteer regiment. It is well worth the climb from the Beacon Edge, along the footpath to the summit, to enjoy a magnificent view of the Lakeland fells. It was on top of this hill, in 1767, that Thomas Nicholson, a murderer, was hanged. The gibbet was left on

the summit and so was Nicholson’s ghost, seen in the form of a skeleton hanging from the noose. The red sandstone from which many of Penrith’s Victorian houses were built was quarried along the escarpments of Beacon Edge, and one of the old quarries, at Cowraik, is now a local nature reserve and a Site of Special Scientific Interest because of the geological significance of the quarry faces.

Around Penrith ARMATHWAITE 10 miles N of Penrith off the A6 H Eden Valley Woollen Mill H Eden Benchmarks

Set on the western bank of the River Eden, the village has a particularly fine sandstone bridge from which there is a splendid view of

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THE CORNER SHOP 30 King Street, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 7AY Tel: 01768 863369 website: www.oldcornershop.co.uk

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EDENHALL 4 miles NE of Penrith off the A686 A Church of St Cuthbert A Plague Cross F Luck of Eden Hall

An old tradition asserts that in the 8th century the monks of Jarrow, fleeing from Viking invaders with the body of St Cuthbert, stopped here briefly. As a result, the village church is dedicated to the saint. Part of the Church of St Cuthbert appears to be pre-Norman, but most of the structure dates from the 1100s. Close to the church is the Plague Cross, which stands where there was once a basin filled with vinegar. This acted as a disinfectant into which plague victims put their money to pay for food from the people of Penrith. An outbreak of the plague in the 16th century killed a quarter of the village’s inhabitants. Edenhall is particularly famous for the story of the Luck of Eden Hall, a priceless glass cup that, according to legend, was stolen from some fairies dancing round the garden wall by a butler in the service of the Musgrave family back in the 15th century. Despite the fairies’ entreaties, the butler refused to return the sixinch high glass to them. As he departed with the precious goblet, the fairies laid a curse upon it: “If ever this cup shall break or fall,

Farewell the luck of Eden Hall.” The glass has been identified as a 13th-century chalice of enamelled and gilded glass that is thought to have come from Syria and may well have been brought back by a Crusader. It was a treasured heirloom of the Musgraves for many generations and is now in the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. The goblet is still intact, but Eden Hall was demolished in 1934.

LANGWATHBY 5 miles NE of Penrith on the A686 E Eden Ostrich World

Langwathby has a huge village green where maypole dancing takes place on the third Saturday in May. The green is medieval in origin and would once have been surrounded by wood and mud houses, perhaps to enclose cattle. After the Civil War and the growth in prosperity in the late 1600s, these wattle-anddaub cottages were replaced by stone buildings. West of the village, at Langwathby Hall Farm, Eden Ostrich World offers visitors the chance to see these splendid birds in a farm setting in the heart of the Eden Valley. The farm is also home to rare breed sheep, cattle and pigs, donkeys, deer, wallabies, alpacas and many other creatures from around the world. One unusual animal is the Zebroid, a cross between a zebra and a pony. Also on site are an adventure playground, a pre-school play area, a maze, riverside walk, gift shop and tearoom.

LITTLE SALKELD 7 miles NE of Penrith off the A686 A Watermill C Long Meg and her Daughters D Lacy Caves

Little Salkeld boasts Cumbria’s only fully operational Watermill producing stoneground organic flours by water power. Tours are available daily except on Wednesday and

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Armathwaite Castle (private), the home of the Skelton family, one of whose forebears was Poet Laureate to Henry VIII. Close by is the Eden Valley Woollen Mill where visitors can see traditional looms rattling away, and browse through a huge range of knitwear produced from the finest wools and mohair. Also worth seeking out in Coombs Wood to the south is one of the Eden Benchmarks. Entitled Vista and created by Graeme Mitchison, this remarkable sculpture seems to make the Lazenby Sandstone flow into liquid shapes.

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Restored in 1975 by Ana and Nick Jones, The Watermill is Cumbria’s only fully operational watermill and is committed to the production of high quality flour using British grain. Currently it is producing a wide range of bio-dynamic and organic stone-ground flours milled the traditional way using clean, self-renewing waterpower. In the Mill Shop you’ll find an exciting range of organic flours, porridge oats, oatmeals, dried fruit, nuts, pasta, tea, coffee, chocolate, home-made chutneys, jams and marmalade, and books. All produce is also available though The Watermill’s online shop. The Tearoom at the Watermill,selected as one of the best in the country by “The Independent”, is famous for its delicious organic, vegetarian cooking, and wonderful bread, cakes and scones. Everything is organic and local where possible. Enjoy morning coffee or a Miller’s Lunch overlooking Sunnygill Beck, or afternoon tea and scones in the Gallery which is a showcase for weaving and knitting (hats, jerseys, and gloves) by Ana Balfour. Tours of the Mill are available daily except for Wednesdays and Saturdays, and regular courses in baking and cooking are held here. Member of the Traditional Cornmillers Guild The Watermill is open daily from 10.30am to 5pm (dusk in winter) from mid-January to Christmas.

Saturday, and there’s a vegetarian tearoom and a mill shop selling a wide range of organic foods. A lane from the village leads to Long Meg and her Daughters, a most impressive prehistoric site and second only to Stonehenge in size. Local legend claims that Long Meg was a witch who, with her daughters, was turned to stone for profaning the Sabbath as they danced wildly on the moor. There are more than 60 stones in the Circle (actually an oval), which is approximately 300 feet across. The tallest, Long Meg, is a 15-foot column of Penrith sandstone, the corners of which face the four points of the compass. Cup and ring symbols and spirals are carved on the stone, which is over 3500 years old. The circle is now known to belong to the Bronze Age but no one is certain of its purpose. It may have been used for rituals connected with the changing

seasons since the midwinter sun sets in alignment with the centre of the circle and Long Meg herself. The brooding majesty of the site was perfectly evoked by Wordsworth: A weight of awe, not easy to be borne, Fell suddenly upon my spirit – cast from the dread bosom of the unknown past, When first I saw that family forlorn. In 1725, an attempt was made by Colonel Samuel Lacy of Salkeld Hall to use the stones for mileposts. However, as work began, a great storm blew up and the workmen fled in terror believing that the Druids were angry at the desecration of their temple. It was the same Colonel Lacy who gave his name to the Lacy Caves, a mile or so downstream from Little Salkeld. The Colonel had the five chambers carved out of the soft red sandstone, possibly as a copy of St Constantine’s Caves further down the river at Wetheral. At that time it was

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THE WATERMILL Little Salkeld, nr Penrith, Cumbria CA10 1NN Tel: 01768 881523 Fax: 01768 881047 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.organicmill.co.uk

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MELMERBY 9 miles NE of Penrith on the A686 A Melmerby Hall

Melmerby nestles at the foot of Hartside Pass, its spacious village green dissected by a beck. Even today, every householder in Melmerby has grazing rights on the green. A Church of St Oswald A Kirkoswald Castle Horses are grazed more commonly now, but A The College J Nunnery Walks in the past it would have been more usual to The village derives its name from the Church see flocks of geese - indeed, there was once a of St Oswald. Oswald was the King of cottage industry here making pillows and Northumbria who, according to legend, mattresses from goose feathers. Overlooking toured the pagan north with St Aidan in the the 13-acre village green is Melmerby Hall, 7th century. The church is unusual in having a a defensive tower that was extended in the detached bell tower standing on top of a 17th and 18th centuries. It is now divided grassy hill some 200 yards from the main into rented apartments. The village church, building, which is in a valley, so if the bells had with its tower, is a Victorian building, but the been placed there they could not be heard by first known rector of a church on this site the villagers. came here in 1332. This once thriving market town still retains A curious meteorological feature here is its small cobbled market place and some very what is known as the Helm Winds, localised fine Georgian buildings. There’s also a striking gusts that sweep through the valley with the ruined 12th-century Castle, formerly the force of a gale while the surrounding home of the Featherstonehaugh family. countryside is perfectly calm. One of Kirkoswald’s most splendid From Melmerby, the main road climbs out buildings is The College, its name recalling of the Eden Valley to the east and the the days when St Oswald’s was a collegiate landscape changes suddenly. The road passes church. The two-storey house with its sloping- Fiend’s Fell, close to the highest point in the ended roof was originally built as a pele tower Pennine Chain, the summit of Cross Fell. Early and converted into the college for priests in Christians erected a cross on the highest point the 1520s. The manor house opposite has a of the fell to protect travellers from the particularly attractive entrance front in demons who haunted the moors. Today, a cairn sandstone, which was added in 1696. marks the spot where the cross once stood. Just to the northwest of Kirkoswald are the ALSTON Nunnery Walks, which start at a Georgian 20 miles NE of Penrith on the A689/A686 house built in 1715. Narrow footpaths have A Market Cross I Oliver Twist’s Alston Trail been cut into the sandstone cliffs along the deep gorge of Croglin Beck and they pass H Gossipgate Gallery I South Tynedale Railway through beautiful woodland to reveal exciting B The Hub D Alston Moor B Nenthead Mines waterfalls. The walks are open to the public England’s highest market town sits 1400 feet during the summer months.

KIRKOSWALD 8 miles NE of Penrith on the B6413

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fashionable to have romantic ruins and grottoes on large estates and Colonel Lacy is said to have employed a man to live in his caves acting the part of a hermit.

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24 sites featured in the series marked by a picture of Mr Bumble. An unusual feature of Alston is the number of watermills in and around the town - a mill race was once the central artery of the old town. The tall spire of St Augustine’s Church is a well-known local landmark and its churchyard contains a number of interesting epitaphs, as well as affording wonderful views of the South Tyne Valley. Alston supports an astonishing diversity of shops and pubs and is home to a wide variety of craftspeople, ranging from blacksmiths to candlemakers, wood turners to potters. Gossipgate Gallery, housed in a converted congregational church built 200 years ago and with its original gas lights still intact, is the premier centre in the North Pennines for contemporary art and craft. A programme of

LOVELADY SHIELD COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL Alston, Cumbria CA9 3LX Tel: 01434 381203 Fax: 01434 381515 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.lovelady.co.uk Lovelady Shield Country House Hotel is an elegant Georgian building that stands on the site of a 13th century convent on the banks of the River Nent. It is surrounded by 3 acres of secluded gardens in which guests can sit and relax whilst enjoying the unspoilt views of the Cumbrian countryside. The hotel retains the ambience of a private residence and guests are warmly welcomed by the owners, Peter & Marie Haynes. They believe that “If you’ve been disappointed at the impersonal and faceless hotels which pride themselves on their 4 and 5 star ratings, you will find Lovelady Shield a refreshing change. We want you to feel “at home” in “our home”. The hotel has an intimate cocktail bar along with a library and lounge with log fires. The highlight for many guests is dinner, which is served in the elegant dining room. The menu varies daily and is imaginatively prepared by Master Chef Barrie Garton. Barrie’s menus are imaginative and varied using mostly local produce. He describes them as being “British with continental excursions”. To complement your meal, the hotel has a wine list of more than 100 wines which in 2002 was awarded North West Wine List of the Year by Les Routiers.

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up on the North Pennines, reached by the A686, which is acknowledged as one of the most scenic routes in the world. Alston has a cobbled main street and, from the picturesque Market Cross, narrow lanes radiating out with courtyards enclosing old houses. Many of the older buildings still have the outside staircase leading to the first floor, a relic from the days when animals were kept below while the family’s living accommodation was upstairs. This ancient part of Alston is known as The Butts, a title acquired by the need of the townspeople to be proficient in archery during the times of the border raids. Because the town centre has changed so little since the late 1700s, it proved to be an ideal location for ITV’s 1999 reworking of Charles Dickens’ Oliver Twist, scripted by Alan Bleasdale. The town council has created an Oliver Twist’s Alston Trail with each of the

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exhibitions runs non-stop from February to December, and in the gallery shop there is a huge range of artefacts for sale, including original watercolours and prints, jewellery, glass, ceramics, sculpture and striking turned wooden bowls made from native woods. There’s also a tearoom, the Gaslight Café. Alston is the southern terminus of the South Alston Station Tynedale Railway and its restored Victorian station, provided with a home, but education was complete with vintage signal box, has featured in many television and period film productions. compulsory and there were some public baths. Nenthead Mines is a 200-acre site high in the The narrow gauge (2ft) steam railway runs hills that tells the story of the lead and zinc regular services during the summer months mining industry. One of the main visitor travelling through the beautiful South Tyne attractions is The Power of Water, an Valley. At the northern terminus of the twoimpressive interactive area that looks at the and-a-half-mile-long track travellers can join a stretch of the Pennine Way that runs alongside technology used, including three working water the River South Tyne. Alston station has a shop wheels that drive model machinery. Another is and refreshment room and just across the road the Brewery Shaft with its 328-feet drop and amazing virtual stone feature. The site also has is The Hub, an exhibition of historic vehicles a gift shop and tearoom. together with a wealth of local images and the stories that bring them alive. BROUGHAM To the south of the town is Alston Moor, 50 1 mile SE of Penrith off the A66 square miles of superb open landscape. The A Brougham Castle C Mayburgh Earthwork moor was once at the centre of an extremely F Tarquin C King Arthur’s Round Table important lead mining region, one of the richest in Britain. Lead and silver were probably A St Ninian’s mined on the moor by the Romans, but the About a mile southeast of Penrith, the industry reached its peak in the early 1800s substantial and imposing remains of when vast quantities of iron, silver, copper and Brougham Castle (English Heritage) stand zinc were extracted by the London Lead on the foundations of a Roman fort. The Company. A Quaker company, it was a pioneer castle was inherited in the 1640s by the of industrial welfare and also built the model redoubtable and immensely rich Lady Anne village of Nenthead to house the miners. Here, Clifford, whose patrimony as Countess of not only were the workers and their families Pembroke, Dorset and Montgomery also

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has been known as King Arthur’s Round Table for many centuries. Lady Anne also rebuilt the chapel that stands on a hill above the castle, next to Brougham Hall. The old parish church of Brougham is the remotely located St Ninian’s, also known as Ninekirks, which contains some family box pews that are screened so that they look almost like cages.

ASKHAM 3 miles S of Penrith off the A6 H Toy Works C Askham Fell

Askham is a delightful conservation village set around two greens that together extend for a mile. Whitewashed cottages fringe the greens and in the centre of the village is one of its most interesting shops, the Toy Works, which combines a traditional toy shop with a toymaker’s workshop. A popular feature here is the Toy Works Express, which chugs around

THE QUEENS HEAD Askham, Penrith, Cumbria CA10 2PF Tel: 01931 712 697 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.queensheadaskham.com The Queens Head is a thriving pub in the heart of the beautiful Lake District village of Askham. The pub was taken over by Katharine Duckitt and Tommy Martin at the beginning of 2010. Visitors will always find a warm welcome at The Queens, from both the landlords and the locals. The pub has two open fires in the front bar. Chesterfield armchairs sit by a wood-burning stove in the cosy back bar. The separate dining room seats up to 26 diners. The pub provides dog-friendly accommodation in four en-suite bedrooms, including a family suite. Outside the pub has benches at the front, with a covered decking area at the rear. Off-street parking is provided behind the building. The Queens Head chefs provide a constantly changing menu of fresh, local food, and make everything on site, including baking their own bread. A special feature of their menu is a very large range of gluten-free dishes. Shooting and fishing seasons provide very local venison, pheasant and trout for the menu. The Queens Head serves food seven days a week, from 12pm to 9pm. The Queens Head provides free wi-fi internet access. Their website shows their current menu, along with pictures of the interior and more information about Askham.

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included another six northern castles. She spent a fortune restoring them all in medieval style and when told that Cromwell had threatened to destroy them replied, “As often as he destroys them I will rebuild them while he leaves me a shilling in my pocket.” Brougham was her favourite castle and she died here in 1676 at the age of 86. From the castle there’s a delightful riverside walk to Eamont Bridge and the circular Mayburgh Earthwork, which dates from prehistoric times. Close to the village, on the banks of the River Eamont, is Giant’s Cave, the supposed lair of a man-eating giant called Isir. This local tale is linked with the legend of Tarquin, a giant knight who imprisoned 64 men in his cave and was eventually killed by Sir Lancelot. Some people also claim that Uther Pendragon, King Arthur’s father, lived here and that he too ate human flesh. A nearby prehistoric earthwork

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CLIFTON 3 miles S of Penrith on the A6 E Clifton Moor

One of the last battles to be fought on English soil took place at nearby Clifton Moor in December 1745. Bonnie Prince Charlie was in retreat and his exhausted troops were easily routed by the English forces. Eleven soldiers were killed and are buried in Clifton churchyard, but some of the wounded Highlanders were hanged from the Rebels’ Tree on the outskirts of the village. The tree is a sorry sight nowadays with its gaunt, dead branches, but it is still a place of pilgrimage for the Scots.

LOWTHER 4 miles S of Penrith off the A6

and permitted his family colours to be used by that organisation. The earl was also a patron of amateur boxing and the Lonsdale Belt is named after him. Within the castle park is the Lakeland Bird of Prey Centre, a sanctuary for some 150 hawks, eagles, falcons, buzzards and owls from around the world. There are daily flying demonstrations at 2pm and 4pm, weather permitting, and the site also has a tearoom and gift shop. Lowther village itself was built in the 1680s by Sir John Lowther who moved his tenants here to improve the view from the new house he was building. He also built St Michael’s Church where several generations of the Lowthers are buried in a series of magnificent tombs beginning with a medieval style alabaster monument to Sir Richard who died in 1608.

BAMPTON 8 miles S of Penrith off the A6 G Hugh Curwen D Haweswater J High Street

For several hundred years this small village was well-known for its Grammar School, two of whose pupils rose swiftly in the church A St Michael’s Church hierarchy. One was Hugh Curwen who as a Lowther Castle is now only a shell, most of it Protestant became Chaplain to Henry VIII, as having been demolished in 1957, but it was a Catholic under Queen Mary was elevated to clearly once a grand place; after her only visit the Archbishopric of Dublin, and then Queen Victoria is reputed to have said that she prudently re-embraced Protestantism when would not return to the castle as it was too Elizabeth succeeded to the throne. Another grand for her. The ancestral owners of the Bampton boy was less pliable: Edmund castle are the illustrious Earls of Lonsdale, a Gibson was baptised in the church here in family of statesmen and sportsmen who are 1669 and later became a fiery Bishop of still the largest landowners in the Lake London who repeatedly denounced the District. The most famous of the Lowthers is degenerate morals of the age - with little perhaps the 5th Earl (1857-1944), known as apparent effect. the Yellow Earl because of the colour of the A couple of miles south of Bampton, livery used on his private carriage. He was the Haweswater is the most easterly of the lakes. first President of the Automobile Association A Lowther Castle E Lakeland Bird of Prey Centre

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the toy display in the old byre. Askham Fell, which rises to the west, is dotted with prehistoric monuments including one known as the Copt (or Cop) Stone, which is said to mark the burial site of a Celtic chieftain.

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SHAP 10 miles S of Penrith on the A6 D Shap Fell A Shap Abbey

This small village on what used to be the A6 enjoys some grand views of the hills. In coaching days, Shap was an important staging post for the coaches before they tackled the daunting climb up Shap Fell to its summit some 850 feet above sea level. Much earlier, in medieval times, the village was even more significant because of nearby Shap Abbey (English Heritage), constructed in the local Shap granite, which has been used in many well-known buildings, St Pancras Station and the Albert Memorial in London among them. The abbey stands beside the River Lowther

about a mile to the west of the village, just inside the National Park, and it’s well worth seeking it out to see the imposing remains of the only abbey founded in Westmorland, the only one in the Lake District mountains, the last abbey to be consecrated in England (around 1199), and the last to be dissolved, in 1540.

ORTON 15 miles S of Penrith on the B6260 D Great Asby Scar A Petty Hall A Orton Hall H Kennedys Chocolates A Keld Chapel

By far the best approach to Orton is along the B6260 from Appleby to Tebay. This scenic route climbs up onto the moors, passing Thunder Stone, some mighty limestone bluffs and the pavements of Great Asby Scar, the setting for BBC TV’s The Tenant of Wildfell Hall. A pretty village now, for centuries Orton was a market town of some consequence with a charter granted in the 13th century by Edward I and a licence to hold fairs accorded by the puritan Oliver Cromwell. Today, the only market is a farmer’s market held on the second Saturday of every month. More than 40 local farmers, growers, producers and artisan craftsmen offer a tremendous variety of high quality and speciality local produce and crafts. There are reminders of Orton’s former importance in the noble church tower, completed in 1504; in the attractive proportions of Petty Hall, an Elizabethan house at the lower end of the village (a private residence), and in the grandeur of Orton Hall, built in 1662 and now converted into holiday apartments. Orton’s most famous visitor was Bonnie Prince Charlie who stayed in the village on his way northwards after the

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It is actually a reservoir, created in the late 1930s to supply the growing needs of industrial Manchester. Beneath the water lies the village of Mardale and several dairy farms for which Haweswater Valley was once famous. By 1940, the lake had reached its present extent of four miles and Manchester Corporation set about planting its shores with conifers. Today the area is managed as a nature reserve. Walkers have a good chance of seeing woodpeckers and sparrow hawks, buzzards and peregrine falcons, and with luck may even catch sight of golden eagles gliding on the thermals rising above Riggindale. An observation is manned throughout the breeding season if the eagles are nesting. Above Haweswater runs the High Street, actually a Roman road, which is now one of the most popular fell walks in the Lake District. It overlooks the remote and lovely Blea Tarn and the lonely valley of Martindale, a cul-de-sac valley to the south of Ullswater, where England’s last remaining herd of wild red deer can often be seen.

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just 17 houses. So quiet today, in medieval times Keld was a busy little place servicing the monks of Shap Abbey nearby. It was the monks who built the village’s oldest building, the early-16th-century Keld Chapel (National Trust).

DALEMAIN 3 miles SW of Penrith off the A592 A Dalemain

Dalemain is one of the area’s most popular attractions - an impressive house with a medieval and Tudor core fronted by an imposing Georgian façade. The house has been home to the same family since 1679 and over the years they have accumulated fine collections of china, furniture and family portraits. The grand drawing rooms boast some very fine oak panelling, while in the

THE OLD SCHOOL TEA ROOM AND B&B Tebay, Penrith, Cumbria CA10 3TP Tel: 015396 24286 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.theoldschooltebay.co.uk Set in the foothills of the stunning Howgill Fells and conveniently located close to junction 38 of the M6, Tebay is a delightful historical village with, at its heart, The Old School Tea Room and B&B. The tea room specialises in delicious home-cooked food and is housed in what was formerly the senior classes‘ schoolroom. There is also a separate dining room for private functions. Reminiscent of its Victorian heritage, The Old School focuses on the quaint comforts of that era - bone china, cut glass, linen and lace. Customers can enjoy a cream tea in front of the fire, home-made soup with freshly baked bread, light lunches, or settle down for coffee, cake and good conversation. The Old School also offers comfortable accommodation in rooms that range from single to large family, most of them with en suite facilities. All rooms have tea/coffee-making equipment and guests have the use of a large lounge with TV. Breakfast is freshly prepared using local produce wherever possible and any dietary requirements can be catered for given notice. Nestling between the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, Howgill Fells and the Eden Valley, the Old School provides an ideal base for exploring this glorious part of the country.

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crushing defeat of his troops at Derby. Orton’s former school now houses Kennedys Chocolates, a small enterprise producing handmade chocolates. There’s a factory shop and a coffee house with viewing windows overlooking the production areas. The village stands below Orton Scar, on which a beacon was lit to warn people to seek safety from advancing Scottish raiders. The village church, in common with many in the Eden Valley, has a massive 16th-century tower that was built for defensive purposes and was the place where the villagers sought shelter. Its features include an ancient oak parish chest and a stained glass window by Beatrice Whistler, wife of the American artist James McNeill Whistler. From the church there’s a pleasant walk of well under a mile to Keld, a tiny village of

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DACRE 4 miles SW of Penrith off the A66 A Dacre Church A Dacre Castle

There is much of historic interest in this village. The Church occupies a site of a former monastery, which was mentioned by the Venerable Bede in his accounts of Cumberland in the 8th century. A later reference shows that in AD926 the Peace of Dacre was signed between Athelstan of England and Constantine of Scotland. Fragments of masonry are reputed to have come from the monastery, and the four weather-beaten carvings of bears in the churchyard are probably of Anglo-Viking origin. The bears are shown, respectively, sleeping, being attacked by a cat, shaking off

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Chinese Room is some beautifully preserved 18thcentury Chinese wallpaper and a rococo chimneypiece by Nathaniel Hedges in Chinese Chippendale style. Visitors also have access to the Nursery (furnished with toys from all ages) and Housekeeper’s Room. The Norman pele tower houses the regimental collection of the Westmorland and Cumberland Yeomanry, a troop of mounted Dacre Castle infantry that the family usually led, while the 16th-century Great Barn contains an interesting assortment of agricultural bygones. The extensive grounds include a medieval herb garden, a Tudorwalled knot garden with a fine early Roman fountain, a wild garden alongside Dacre Beck, a deer park, and woodland and riverside walks. There is also a tearoom selling home-baked lunches and teas.

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the cat and eating the cat. A 14th-century pele tower, Dacre Castle (private) is a typical example of the fortified house or small castle that was common in northern England during the Middle Ages. This was the seat of the Dacre family, Catholic Earls of Cumberland, and its turrets and battlements have walls that are eight feet thick.

POOLEY BRIDGE 5 miles SW of Penrith on the B5320 D Ullswater A Holly House

In Wordsworth’s opinion Ullswater provides “the happiest combination of beauty and grandeur which any of the Lakes affords”, an opinion with which most visitors concur. The poet also noted the curious fact that the lake creates a sextuple echo, a natural phenomenon that the Duke of Portland exploited in the mid-1700s by keeping a boat on the lake equipped “with brass guns, for the purpose of exciting echoes”. The charming village of Pooley Bridge stands at the northern tip of Ullswater, and there are regular cruise departures from here during the season, stopping at Glenridding and Howton. Rowing and powered boats are

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WATERMILLOCK 7 miles SW of Penrith on the A592 D Aira Force D High Force D Gowbarrow Estate

This small village, idyllically situated on the shore of Ullswater, is hidden amongst the woodland that occupies much of the lake’s western shores. About four miles southwest of the village, there is a series of waterfalls that tumble down through a wooded gorge and then into Ullswater. The name of the largest fall is Aira Force (70 feet high) and the second largest is High Force. They can easily be reached on foot through the woodlands of Gowbarrow Estate, which is owned by the National Trust.

GLENRIDDING 14 miles SW of Penrith on the A592 D Helvellyn

A popular base for walkers about to tackle the daunting challenge of Helvellyn, Glenridding is the largest and busiest of Ullswater’s lakeside villages. Lake cruises depart from here, rowing boats are available for hire and there’s plenty of room for waterside picnics.

PATTERDALE 15 miles SW of Penrith on the A592 A St Patrick’s Well

It is this village’s magnificent setting that

makes it such a popular tourist destination. Close to the head of Ullswater and with a series of fells framing the views, the scenery is indeed splendid. On the north side of the village is St Patrick’s Well, which was thought to have healing properties. The medieval chapel dedicated to the saint was rebuilt in the 1850s.

STAINTON 2 miles W of Penrith off the A66 or A592 E The Alpaca Centre H Just Wood Gallery

The Alpaca Centre was set up in 1997 and has become a focal point for the development and expanding knowledge of the alpaca. The centre, the only one of its kind in Europe, is a working farm, breeding, rearing and selling alpacas and welcomes visits at any time of the year. There’s a shop selling an array of garments fashioned from the exceptionally fine alpaca fibre, many handmade in Peru. Upstairs is the Just Wood Gallery displaying a superb collection of furniture and ornamental pieces, many crafted in the centre’s own workshop by Garry Stevenson and his son Shaun. Also at the centre is G&S Timber Crafts, which supplies hard woods for wood turners, carvers and furniture makers.

GREYSTOKE 5 miles W of Penrith on the B5288 A Greystoke Castle A St Andrew’s Church C Plague Stone

According to Edgar Rice Burroughs, Greystoke Castle was the ancestral home of Tarzan, Lord of the Apes, a fiction that was perpetuated in the 1984 film Greystoke. Today, the castle and its 3000-acre estate are an outdoor activity centre. Tarzan’s aristocratic

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available for hire, and since Ullswater is in effect a public highway, private boats can also be launched. A speed limit of 10mph applies over the whole of the eight-mile-long serpentine lake. The oldest building in Pooley Bridge is part of Holly House, which dates back to 1691, while the Bridge of the village’s name dates from 1763 when the elegant structure over the River Eamont was built at a cost of £400.

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two Grand National winners, Lucius and Hello Dandy.

HUTTON-IN-THE-FOREST 6 miles NW of Penrith on the B5305 A Hutton-in-the-Forest

The home of the Inglewood family since 1605, Hutton-in-the-Forest was originally a medieval stronghold and the pele tower from that period still exists. The house has been added to and altered by successive generations with the result that an unusual number of architectural and decorative styles can be seen. Among the notable features are the 17th-century Gallery, the Hall dominated by a Cupid staircase, and a room decorated in the Arts and Crafts style. The splendid grounds include a beautiful walled garden built in the 1730s, topiary terraces that were originally laid

HAY CLOSE TEA ROOM Hay Close, Calthwaite, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 9PX Tel: 01768 885488 website: www.hayclose.com Set in the Eden Valley amidst some of Cumbria’s finest scenery, Hay Close Tea Room is owned and run by the Field family who have farmed here for more than half a century, mainly raising cattle but also growing various crops including barley, wheat and potatoes. Hay Close is not just a tea room, it also offers a little oasis ideal for a family outing. In the tea room you’ll find an appetising range of freshly prepared hot and cold lunches, quiches, baked potatoes, sandwiches, afternoon teas and a delicious range of home-made cakes and tray bakes. Children love the many attractions in the 30-acre Maze and Children’s Play Area. There’s crazy golf, swings and climbing frames, a trampoline and of course, (from July to October) the two graded mazes. Indoors, they can explore Fort Grizedale with its intriguing slides and tunnels, while grown-ups can browse through the many quality gifts and crafts on sale. Amongst them are wood crafts, paintings, hand-made soap and gifts, toys, jewellery, toys, flower arrangements and cards. Hay Close Tea Room is open from March to December from 10.30am to 5pm, but is closed on Tuesdays except during the summer holidays.

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credentials would have come as something of a surprise to the dignified Barons of Greystoke whose effigies are preserved in St Andrew’s Church. As imposing and spacious as a cathedral, St Andrew’s boasts a wonderful east window with much 13th-century glass and, in the Lady Chapel, a figure of the Madonna and Child carved by a German prisoner-of-war. About 100 yards from the church stands the Plague Stone where, during medieval times, coins were left in vinegar in exchange for food for the plague victims. An ancient Sanctuary Stone, now concealed behind a grille, marks the point beyond which fugitives could claim sanctuary. Greystoke village itself is a gem, its attractive houses grouped around a trimly maintained village green. Nearby are the stables where Sir Gordon Richards trained his

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Indeed, the church, with its long, elegant nave, has been called the Cathedral of the Dales. Dating from Saxon times, rebuilt in 1220 and with a 16th-century tower, St Stephen’s Church is one of the finest in the eastern fells, dominating the northern end of the town from its elevated position. Until the last century the Trupp Stone in the churchyard H Eden Benchmarks received money from local people every Carved through boulder clay and red sandstone, Easter Monday in payment of church tithes. and sandwiched between the Lakeland fells and At eight o’clock, the curfew is still sounded the northern Pennines, the Eden Valley is green by the Taggy Bell. After the chiming of the hour, the bell rings to mark the day of the and fertile - in every sense another Eden. This, too, is farming country and many of the ancient month. Inside the church are a number of pre-Conquest stones, some of which show towns and villages have a market place. Norse influence. The most remarkable is the Appleby-in-Westmorland, the old county town of Westmorland, had an important market and 10th-century Loki Stone, one of only two such carvings in Europe to have survived. also an annual horse fair, the latter of which Loki was a Norse God and presumably continues today and has gained a large Viking settlers brought their belief in Loki to following. Kirkby Stephen. An attractive man-made feature of the Between the church and the market square valley is the collection of specially stand the cloisters, which served for a long commissioned stone sculptures known as time as a butter market. The Market Square is Eden Benchmarks dotted along its length. Each created by a different sculptor, they have surrounded by an ancient collar of cobblestones that marked out an area used for been located beside public paths and, since they also function as seats, provide the perfect bull-baiting - a ‘sport’ that ceased here in 1820 vantage point from which to enjoy the valley’s after a disaster when a bull broke loose. There are many delightful walks from the town, to unspoilt scenery. Croglam Earthworks for example, a prehistoric fort, or to nearby Stenkrith Park where the second of the Eden Benchmarks can be found. Created by Laura White in A St Stephen’s Church C Trupp Stone Ancaster limestone and titled Passage, the C Loki Stone C Croglam Earthworks sculpture is deceptively simple, suggesting H Eden Benchmarks J Coast to Coast perhaps the course of a river bed. There are also some pleasant strolls along the riverside to Surrounded by spectacular scenery, the old a fine waterfall where the River Eden cascades market town of Kirkby Stephen stands at the into Coop Karnel Hole. Look out for the head of the beautiful Eden Valley. Although unusual shapes of the weathered limestone essentially part of the Valley, Kirkby Stephen rock. For more strenuous exercise, walkers has a strong Yorkshire Dales feel about it.

The Eden Valley and East Cumbria

Kirkby Stephen

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out in the 17th century, fine specimen trees, and a 17th-century dovecote that forms part of the Woodland Walk.

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Around Kirkby Stephen WINTON 3 miles N of Kirkby Stephen off the A685 E Winton Fell

The oldest building in this quiet and picturesque hamlet is Winton Hall (private), built of stone and dated 1665, but looking older with its stone buttresses and mullion windows with iron bars. Those taking a walk on Winton Fell are likely to see red grouse lifting off from the large tracts of heather on the fellside. Indeed, the wildlife is much more prolific around this area where the limestone provides more plentiful food than on the fells around the lakes.

OUTHGILL 5 miles S of Kirkby Stephen on the B6259 A Church of St Mary D Wild Boar Fell A Pendragon Castle A Lammerside Castle

At the heart of this scattered hamlet is the village Church of St Mary, first built in 1311 and later restored by Lady Anne Clifford. From 1643, when she finally obtained possession of the Clifford estates, Lady Anne devoted her life to restoring her many properties and lived in each of them for varying periods of time. Her estates included six castles - Skipton and Barden in Yorkshire, Appleby, Brough, Brougham and nearby Pendragon. Lady Anne’s zeal for restoration didn’t stop at castles, she also repaired the Roman road between Wensleydale and the Eden Valley, a route she often travelled (along with a huge retinue)

between her castles and her birthplace at Skipton. The route is now known as Lady Anne’s Way, but in times past it was aptly called the High Way since it was a regular place of employment for highwaymen such as Dick Turpin and William ‘Swift’ Nevison. The landscape around Outhgill is remote and beautiful. To the south is Wild Boar Fell, a brooding, flat-topped peak where the last wild boar in England was reputedly killed, while tucked down in the valley are the romantic ruins of Lammerside and Pendragon Castles. Pendragon Castle, about a mile north of the village, is shrouded in legend, including claims that it was the fortress of Uther Pendragon, father of King Arthur. If so, nothing remains of that 6th-century wooden castle. The present structure dates from the 1100s and was built by Hugh de Morville to guard the narrow pass of Mallerstang. De Morville was one of the four knights who murdered Thomas à Becket. The castle was twice burned by the Scots and twice restored, on the latter occasion by the formidable Lady Anne Clifford in 1660. Another mile or so downstream, Lammerside Castle dates from the 12th century but only the remains of the keep survive. They can be found along a bridle path between Pendragon and Wharton Hall.

RAVENSTONEDALE 5 miles SW of Kirkby Stephen on the A685 A Church of St Oswald

Known locally as Rissendale, this pretty village of stone-built cottages clustered along the banks of Scandal Beck lies on the edge of the Howgill Fells. The parish Church of St Oswald is especially interesting: built in 1738, it is one of the few Georgian churches

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could tackle a stretch of the Coast to Coast long distance footpath, which passes through the town.

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St Oswald’s Church, Ravenstonedale

in Cumbria. It is unusual in that the interior layout follows the ‘collegiate’ plan, where rows of pews face into the central aisle. There’s a handsome oak-panelled threedecker pulpit, complete with sounding board, and the window at the east end commemorates the last woman in England to be put to death for her Protestant faith. Elizabeth Gaunt was sentenced in 1685 by the notorious Judge Jeffreys to be burnt at the stake for sheltering a fugitive rebel. She met her end at Tyburn in London.

Appleby-inWestmorland D Boroughgate A Moot Hall A Appleby Castle E Rare Breeds Survival Centre A St Lawrence’s Church H Courtyard Gallery I Gypsy Horse Fair

The old county town of Westmorland, Appleby is one of the most delightful small towns in England. It was originally built by the Norman, Ranulph de Meschines, who set it within a broad loop of the River Eden, which protects it on three sides. The fourth side is guarded by Castle Hill. The town’s uniquely attractive main street, Boroughgate, has been CROSBY GARRETT described as the finest in England. A broad, 4 miles W of Kirkby Stephen off the A685 tree-lined avenue, it slopes down the hillside to A Crosby Garrett Church F The Devil the river, its sides lined with a pleasing variety of buildings, some dating back to the 17th Local legend has it that the Devil, seeing all the stones lying ready to build Crosby Garrett century. At its foot stands the 16th-century Moot Hall (still used for council meetings Church, carried them in his leather apron to and also housing the Tourist Information the top of a nearby hill. He reasoned that, as Centre), at its head rises the great Norman people grew old, they would be unable to Keep of Appleby Castle, which is protected climb the hill and attend church and thus would come to him rather than go to Heaven. by one of the most impressive curtain walls in Such tales apart, the church itself is said to be northern England. Attractions here include the dramatic view from the top of the fiveof Anglo-Saxon origin, though the visible storey keep and the lovely grounds that are fabric is 12th century. Inside there are some superb carvings, particularly near the font. The home to a wide variety of animals and include a Rare Breeds Survival Centre. church is also famous for its hagioscope, cut A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

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through the wall to allow people in the north aisle to see the altar. Near the church gates is a tithe barn, built in the 18th century to store farm produce given to the church as a religious tax. To the west of the village runs the SettleCarlisle Railway whose splendid viaduct dominates Crosby Garrett.

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The Tufton Arms Hotel is a small, intimate, family run, luxury hotel in Cumbria, situated in the centre of the charming medieval town of Appleby-inWestmorland. The town is set in the heart of the tranquil, unspoilt and beautiful Eden Valley, which borders the nearby Lake District. Easily accessed via the A66 or M6 J38/40 it is also an excellent stop over point if you are travelling to or from Scotland All twenty two bedrooms are individually furnished and decorated offering all modern day comforts and luxury. Enjoy the ambience of your bedroom with rooms ranging from large suites to elegant single rooms. Most rooms having been recently refurnished including sleek italian bathrooms. Dinner is taken in the elegant Conservatory Restaurant set overlooking the cobbled mews courtyard and offers something for everyone and every occasion. Fresh local produce combined with sound cooking techniques give delicious classic dishes with a modern twist. The excellent food is complimented by a 200 bin award winning wine list. With many wines being personally imported it offers both diversity and very good value. Sporting countryside breaks are a speciality of the Hotel reflecting the special nature and diversity of the Eden valley and North Penines. From top quality wild brown trout and salmon fishing on the River Eden to walking in the fells, the Penine Way, Dales Highway, golf, canooing, cycling, grouse shooting etc Do have a look at our excellent website for more information, special offers and online booking discounts!

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TUFTON ARMS HOTEL Market Square, Appleby in Westmorland, Cumbria CA16 6XA Tel: 017683 51593 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.tuftonarmshotel.co.uk

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Lady Anne died in 1676 in her 86th year and was buried with her mother, Margaret, Countess of Cumberland, in St Lawrence’s Church. The church is well worth visiting to see their magnificent tombs and also the historic organ, purchased from Carlisle Cathedral in 1684, which is said to be the oldest still in use in Britain. Halfway along Boroughgate is the Courtyard Gallery, housed in a picturesque 17th century granary. The gallery has a changing display of original paintings and etchings on sale. Just a few years after Lady Anne Clifford’s death, James II granted the town the right to hold a Fair during the week leading to the second Wednesday in June. More than 300 years later, the Gypsy Horse Fair is still thriving with hundreds of gypsies flooding

HOLLBERRIE- for Lovely Ladies and Gorgeous Girlies 28 Boroughgate, Appleby-in-Westmorland, Cumbria CA16 6XG Tel: 017683 51027 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.hollberrie.co.uk A unique boutique selling handpicked fashions, home wear and gifts to treat yourself or someone special. Hollberrie has been featured several times in Country Living Magazine and Caron the owner is famous for her bespoke Christmas floristry. Situated halfway down the beautiful main street Boroughgate in a Georgian merchants shop, come visit and browse through a shop full of nothing essential!! Stockist of Avoca, Bohemia and Jackpot ladies clothing, lovely vintage inspired girl’s clothes, and always free inspiration and happiness.Caron and the girls look forward to welcoming you to Hollberrie. Visit Appleby on the picturesque Carlisle to Settle railway or turn off the A66 and drop down into the old county town of Westmorland on the river Eden.

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During the mid-1600s, Appleby Castle was the home of Lady Anne Clifford, the remarkable woman who has already been mentioned several times and to whom Appleby has good cause to be grateful. The last of the Clifford line, the diminutive Lady Anne (she was just four feet 10 inches tall) inherited vast wealth and estates, among them no fewer than six northern castles. She lavished her fortune on rebuilding or restoring them all. Churches and chapels in the area benefited from her munificence and at Appleby, in 1651, she also founded the almshouses known as the Hospital of St Anne, for “12 sisters and a Mother”. Set around a cobbled square, the picturesque cottages and minuscule chapel still serve their original function, maintained by the trust endowed by Lady Anne.

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Around Appleby-inWestmorland BRAMPTON 2 miles N of Appleby-in-Westmorland off the A66 F Elizabeth Sleddall

This village, along with the surrounding area, was said to be haunted by the ghost of Elizabeth Sleddall, the wife of a 17thcentury owner of nearby Crackenthorpe Hall. Elizabeth died believing that she had been cheated out of her share of the estate. So, to shame the false inheritors, her spirit was seen being driven around the countryside in a coach drawn by four black horses. Her ghost became so troublesome that the local people exhumed her body and reburied the remains under a larger boulder. Her ghost, while no longer upsetting the local people, is said still to visit the hall.

DUFTON 3 miles N of Appleby-in-Westmorland off the A66 D Dufton Gill

Behind this delightful hamlet lies Dufton Gill, a beautiful, secluded wooded valley through which runs a footpath. Also from Dufton there is a track carrying the Pennine Way up to High Cup Nick, a great horseshoe precipice at the edge of the northern Pennine escarpment that was formed by a glacial lake during the Ice Age.

GREAT ORMSIDE 2 miles SE of Appleby-in-Westmorland off the B6260 A Church of St James F General Whitehead

This was once an important fort guarded by a pele tower. Today, the ancient Church of St James, which dates from the 11th century, occupies a site on the steep-sided defence mound. Relics of pre-Christian burials have been found in the mound, as well as a Viking sword (now in the Tullie Museum in Carlisle). A silver gilt and enamel bowl from the 7th century has also been found and is regarded as one of the most important pieces of AngloSaxon metalware to survive. A particularly beautiful piece, richly decorated with vine scrolls, birds and animals, it is now on permanent display in the Yorkshire Museum in York. From the village, a path leads across fields to the village of Little Ormside with its large cedar tree said to have been brought back from Lebanon as a sapling by General Whitehead. On the voyage home he grew it in his hat and shared with it his daily ration of one pint of water.

WARCOP 5 miles SE of Appleby-in-Westmorland on the B6259 I Rush-bearing Ceremony

The largest village in this part of the Eden Valley, Warcop grew up around a crossing point of the river. The bridge, the oldest to cross the river, dates from the 16th century and the red sandstone buildings surrounding the village green, with its central maypole, make this a charming place to visit. The Church of St Columba is built outside the village on the site of a Roman camp. An interesting building in its own right, it is

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into the little town (population 1800) with their caravans and horse-drawn carts. The trade, principally in horses, and the trotting races provide an unusual and colourful spectacle.

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BROUGH 9 miles SE of Appleby-inWestmorland on the A66/A685 A Brough Castle

This small town, standing at the point where the Stainmore Pass opens into the Vale of Eden, is, in Brough fact, two settlements: Church Brough and Market Brough. Church Brough is a group of neat houses and cottages clustered around a little market square in which a maypole stands on the site of the former market cross. Brough Castle (English Heritage), built within the ramparts of the Roman camp of Verterae, was constructed to protect the Roman road over Stainmore Pass. The building of this Norman castle was begun by William Rufus in 1095, but it was largely destroyed in 1174 by William the Lion of Scotland. Another fortification restored by the remarkable Lady Anne Clifford, the castle, with its tall keep 60 feet high, is well worth visiting, if only for the superb panorama of the surrounding fells seen from the battlements. The distinctive low hills that lie to the west of Brough are drumlins - heaps of material deposited by Ice Age glaciers. In this area many drumlins are marked by broad, grassy ridges, remains of ancient lynchets or ploughing strips.

NORTH STAINMORE 11 miles SE of Appleby-in-Westmorland on the A66 C Maiden Castle C Rey Stone

The village lies on the Stainmore Pass, which

Castle

carries the old Roman road, now the A66, through a remote area of the North Pennines and which David Bellamy has described as “England’s last wilderness”. Near Stainmore summit are the foundations of Maiden Castle, a Roman fort built to guard the pass against marauders. A few yards over the Cumbrian border, into County Durham, is the stump of the ancient Rey Cross, which was erected before AD946 and which, until 1092, marked the boundary between England and Scotland. It is thought to be the site of the battle at which the last Viking King of York and North England, Eric Bloodaxe, was killed following his expulsion from the city.

GREAT ASBY 4 miles S of Appleby-in-Westmorland off the B6260 This pretty village is set in a wooded hollow, its houses separated by Hoff Beck. Alongside the beck is St Helen’s Well, which is said never to run dry or freeze. Nearby, are the splendid almshouses of St Helen’s, built between 1811 and 1820. Across a footbridge is Asby Hall (private), built in 1670. It was once the home of the Musgrave family of Edenhall whose crest and coat of arms can still be seen above the door.

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particularly famous for the Rushbearing Ceremony, which takes place in late June each year.

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Set in an idyllic location on the banks of the River Lyvennet, where a mill has stood since at least 1327, Steele’s Mill is a newly-restored corn mill whose owners, the Addison family, have made every effort to preserve its history, including retaining the original mill workings such as mill stones, apple wood cogs and mill gearing. The 3-storey building was sensitively restored by local craftsmen using local materials and was awarded Highly Commended in the Eden District Design Awards, 2007. The Mill now provides quality 5-star self-catering accommodation for up to 4 people. The Mill has a private parking/garden/patio area, and the original water wheel is a feature on the east side. Inside, the kitchen and dining room feature furniture and stairs made by local craftsmen from home-grown oak, grown on the Addison family farm. The hand-made modern kitchen includes a Rangemaster cooker with granite work surfaces and the whole of the ground floor is heated beautifully with underfloor heating. A striking feature of this part of the Mill is the original workings encased behind glass. In the sitting room, four mill stones have been restored and set into the floor, surrounded by a beautifully crafted oak floor. The lounge has satellite TV, DVD, internet connection and stove gas fire. The accommodation comprises a twin bedroom on the first floor, snugly positioned above the kitchen and with its own en suite bathroom with wc, wash hand basin and walk in shower. The master bedroom, with its own en suite facilities, is on the second floor and has a king size bed, goose down duvets, comfy chairs and stunning views of the river. Walk out from the sitting room on to the viewing balcony where you can relax, take in the wonderful views and become acquainted with the inhabitants of the river which include kingfisher, dipper, brown trout, heron and the occasional otter. You may be lucky and even see a red squirrel making his way through the woods. All in all, the Mill provides an ideal base for an active outdoor holiday, or the perfect retreat away from the rat race.

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STEELE’S MILL Kings Meaburn, Penrith, Cumbria CA10 3BU Tel: 01931 714017 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.steelesmill.co.uk

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D Cross Fell E Acorn Bank

Temple Sowerby prides itself on the title Queen of Westmorland villages, an accolade justified by its lovely setting in the Eden valley. For many years it suffered from the heavy traffic on the A66, which passed through the centre of the village. Happily, a bypass was opened in 2007 and peace has been restored to this charming place. A bonus that comes with living in Temple Sowerby is that the average rainfall here is half that recorded in the Lake District National Park to the west. To the north, the massive bulk of Cross Fell, the highest point in the Pennines, swells skywards to provide a spectacular backdrop. The village itself, picturesquely grouped around a sloping green and an 18th-century red sandstone church, takes its name from the medieval Knights Templar who owned the manor of Sowerby until their Order was suppressed in 1308. From Temple Sowerby there are delightful walks through the Eden Valley or, if you prefer a gentle stroll, it’s only a mile to the National Trust gardens at Acorn Bank where Crowdundle Beck splashes beneath an elegant 18th-century bridge. The 16thcentury manor house is now a Sue Ryder Home and not open to the public, but visitors are welcome to explore the attractive gardens planted with a collection of some 250 medicinal and culinary herbs. There’s also a pleasant tearoom that uses fruit and herbs from the gardens. A circular woodland walk runs along the beck to a watermill that was first mentioned on the site as far back as the 14th century. At different times it has been a saw mill, a corn mill and a source of power

for the local gypsum mines; now restored, it is open to visitors.

Carlisle A Carlisle Castle B Regimental Museum A Carlisle Cathedral A Prior’s Tower D West Walls E Kingmoor Nature Reserve A St Cuthbert’s Church H Old Tullie House B Tullie House Museum and Art Gallery B Linton Visitor Centre B Guildhall Museum A Citadel I Settle-Carlisle Railway B A World in Miniature Museum

Carlisle is the largest settlement in Cumbria with a population of around 100,000, and is also its county town. The city stands at the junction of three rivers, the Eden, the Caldew and the Petteril, and was already fortified in Celtic times when it was named Caer Lue, the hill fort. It became a major Roman centre as the military base for the Petriana regiment, Luguvallum, guarding the western end of Hadrian’s Wall, and also an important civilian settlement with fountains, mosaics, statues and centrally-heated homes. Today, the squat outline of Carlisle Castle (English Heritage) dominates the skyline of this fascinating city. The original Norman castle was built of wood but, during the Scottish occupation in the 12th century, King David I laid out a new castle with stones taken from Hadrian’s Wall. The 12th-century keep can still be seen enclosed by massive inner and outer walls. Entry is through a great 14thcentury gatehouse, complete with portcullis, and with a maze of vaulted passages, chambers, staircases, towers, and dismal dungeons. Children, especially, enjoy the legendary ‘licking stones’ from which parched Jacobite prisoners tried to find enough

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TEMPLE SOWERBY 7 miles NW of Appleby-in-Westmorland on the A66

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Carlisle Cathedral, the only cathedral in Cumbria, has many interesting features, including an exquisite 14th-century east window that is considered to be one of the finest in Europe. Below the beautifully painted wooden ceiling of the choir, with its gold stars shimmering against a deep blue background, are the carved, canopied choir-stalls with their medieval misericords. The wonderful carved

MERIENDA AT TREASURY COURT 12 Treasury Court, Carlisle, Cumbria CA3 8RF Tel: 01228 595259 Housed in a listed building with a stunning modern glass house extension this new coffee shop-café-bar-restaurant is modelled on its successful Cockermouth predecessor. Again the emphasis is on high quality coffee prepared in a state-of-the-art Synesso coffee machine and one of the few places outside London to serve highly regarded “Square Mile Coffee”, Fair-trade, organic and local produce feature highly on the menu, there are friendly, welcoming staff and a relaxed, informal atmosphere.

CARLISLE WORLD SHOP 1 Lowthians Lane, English Street, Carlisle, Cumbria CA3 8JR Tel: 01228 550385 Cumbria is a beacon for Fairtrade with more Fairtrade towns, villages and zones than any other county. Carlisle is a Fairtrade city and at the heart of Fairtrade in the city is the Carlisle World Shop. If you are looking for FAIRTRADE Mark food products, there is a wide selection which you won’t find elsewhere, everything from teas and coffees to rice, pasta and olive oil. Also bearing the familiar and trusted Fairtrade logo are cotton products for men, women and children from Fairtrade pioneers People Tree, Bishopston Trading and Traidcraft. You will find beauty products with the logo too. There are many fairly traded products from suppliers accredited by the World Fair Trade Organisation (WFTO) and the Association for Fair Trade Shops (BAFTS). These include beautiful hand-made cards and stationery. Many other products have a light footprint, including re-cycled products made from glass and newspaper - wine glasses, bags, photo frames and beautifully painted papier mâché gift boxes. Scarves and jewellery are always popular.

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moisture to stay alive. Archaeologists working outside the castle walls unearthed the remains of three Roman forts, and many of the finds are on display in a special exhibition at the castle. Carlisle Castle is everything a real castle should be, and is still the headquarters of the King’s Own Royal Border Regiment whose Regimental Museum is located within the castle walls.

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EAST VIEW GUEST HOUSE 110 Warwick Road, Carlisle, Cumbria CA1 1JU Tel/Fax: 01228 522112 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.eastviewguesthouse.co.uk Just a 5-minute walk from the city centre, East View Guest House is a friendly, family-run Victorian guest house offering a high standard of accommodation. There’s a good choice of comfortable en suite rooms, including large bedrooms suitable for families. All rooms are equipped with tea/coffee-making facilities, hair dryer and alarm clock, and are furnished and decorated to a very high quality. Breakfast is definitely something to look forward to at East View. It is served in the spacious, elegant dining room and the choices include Full English or a large vegetarian option. Special diets, including gluten-free, can be catered for if notice is given. Other amenities include private parking and secure storage for bikes. East View’s location makes it ideal for an overnight stay en route to Scotland, and it is also well-placed as a base for visiting Hadrian’s Wall and the nearby Lake District. Other visitor attractions within easy reach include Carlisle Castle, Tullie House Museum and Carlisle Cathedral.

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It was at Carlisle Cathedral that Edward I solemnly used bell, book and candle to excommunicate Robert the Bruce, and here, too, the bells were rung to welcome Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. Although an appointment is usually necessary, a visit to the nearby Prior’s Tower is a must. On the first floor of this 15th-century pele tower is a marvellous panelled ceiling incorporating the popinjay crest and arms of the Prior Carlisle Cathedral Senhouse. The 16th-century Prior’s beasts and birds include two dragons joined by gatehouse leads to a narrow lane called the ears, a fox killing a goose, pelicans feeding Paternoster, named after the monks reciting their young, and a mermaid with a looking their offices. glass. In St Wilfrid’s Chapel is the superb 16thLike many great medieval cities, Carlisle was century Flemish Brougham Triptych, which surrounded by walls. Guided walks and tours was originally in Cologne Cathedral. are available and the best view is to be found

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renowned pre-Raphaelite artists, as well as other artworks and a selection of fine English porcelain. A short walk from the Museum you’ll find the Linton Visitor Centre in Shaddongate, which provides an insight into the city’s industrial heritage. The Guildhall Museum, housed in an unspoiled medieval building constructed by Richard of Redeness in 1407, provides an ideal setting for illustrating the history of both the Guilds and the City. Not far from the Guildhall is the Citadel, which is often mistaken for the castle. This intimidating fortress, with its two well-preserved circular towers, was built in 1543 on the orders of Henry VIII to strengthen the city’s defences. Much of it was demolished in the early 1800s to improve access to the city centre, but what remains is mightily impressive. Across the road from the Citadel is the railway station. The first railway to Carlisle opened in July 1836 and Citadel Station, which opened in 1850, was built to serve seven different railway companies whose coats of arms are still displayed on the facade. So elegant was its interior - and much of it remains - that Carlisle was known as the ‘top hat’ station. Today, it is still an important centre of communications; InterCity trains from Glasgow and London now link with lines to Dumfries, Tyneside, West Cumbria and Yorkshire, and it is, of course, the northern terminus of the famous SettleCarlisle Railway line. One of the last great mainline railways to be built in Britain - it was completed in 1876 - the Settle-Carlisle line takes in some of the most dramatic scenery that the north of England has to offer. Scenic it may be, but the terrain caused the Victorian engineers many problems. During the course of its 72 miles, the line crosses 20 viaducts and passes through 12

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in a little street called West Walls at the bottom of Sally Port Steps, near the Tithe Barn. The walls date from around the 11th century and they remained virtually intact until the 1800s. Close by is St Cuthbert’s Church, the official city church of Carlisle and where the Lord Mayor’s pew can be found. Although the present building dates from 1778, there has been a church on this site since the 7th century and the dedication is obvious, since St Cuthbert was Bishop of Carlisle in AD680. It is a charming Georgian building with several interesting features including a moveable pulpit on rails. The award-winning Tullie House Museum and Art Gallery, in the centre of the city close to the Cathedral, is certainly another place not to be missed. Through skilful and interpretive techniques the fascinating, and often dark, history of the Debatable Lands, as this border region was called, is told. The museum’s centrepiece is its story of the Border Reivers who occupied the lands from the 14th to the 17th century. The horrific stories of the Reivers have been passed down through the generations in the Border Ballads, and many of the Reivers family names are still known - the museum even offers a genealogy service so that visitors can find out if their ancestry goes back to these people. The city of Carlisle dates back far beyond those desperate days and Tullie House also has an extensive collection of Roman remains from both the city and the Cumbrian section of Hadrian’s Wall. The Art Gallery features contemporary arts and crafts, and the spectacular underground Millennium Gallery has a stunning collection of local minerals, archaeological finds of wood and leather, artistmade glass and interactive exhibits. Old Tullie House showcases paintings and drawings by

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Around Carlisle LONGTOWN 9 miles N of Carlisle on the A7 A Arthuret Church E Oakbank Country Park A Church of St Michael and All Angels

Situated on the north side of Hadrian’s Wall, only a couple of miles from the Scottish border, this is the last town in England. Its

position on the River Esk so close to the border has influenced its history from earliest times. Longtown was planned and built in the late 18th century by local landowners, the Graham family. Dr Robert Graham laid out the town with wide tree-lined streets and established the Graham Arms as a coaching inn to cater for travellers to and from Edinburgh across the toll bridge. On the outskirts of Longtown is Arthuret Church. The earliest records of the church date from 1150 when it was served by the monks of Jedburgh. But it is thought that the earliest church here may have been founded by St Kentigern in the 6th century; recent research has led some to believe that King Arthur was actually interred here after his last battle, Camboglanna, was fought a few miles east of Longtown at Gilsland. The present church, dedicated to St Michael and All Angels, was built in 1609, financed by a general collection throughout the realm, which James I ordered after a report that the people of Arthuret Church were without faith or religion. The people that he referred to, of course, were the infamous Reivers, ungoverned by either English or Scottish laws. Archie Armstrong, favourite Court Jester to James I and later to Charles I, is buried in the churchyard. Just outside the town, Oakbank Country Park has four lakes, a bird sanctuary and a number of walks in 60 acres of grounds.

CROSBY-ON-EDEN 4 miles NE of Carlisle off the A689 B Solway Aviation Museum I Walby Farm Park

The tiny hamlet of High Crosby stands on the hillside overlooking the River Eden; the small village of Low Crosby sits beside the river, clustered around a Victorian sandstone

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tunnels, each of which was constructed by an army of navvies who had little in the way of resources besides their strength and some dynamite to dislodge the rock. Located on the northwestern edge of the city, Kingmoor Nature Reserve occupies an area of moorland given to the city in 1352 by Edward III. Citizens enjoyed the right to graze sheep on the moors and to cut peat for fuel. Later, Carlisle’s first racecourse was established here with annual Guild races being held up until 1850. Then in 1913, Kingmoor became one of the first bird sanctuaries in England and today provides a peaceful retreat away from the bustle of the city. A half-mile circular path wanders through the woodland with gentle gradients of 1 in 20 making it fully accessible to wheelchairs and pushchairs, and with seats every 100 yards or so providing plenty of resting places. Another path links the reserve to Kingmoor Sidings, which since the old railway sheds closed has been colonised by a wide variety of wildlife. About two miles north of the city centre in the suburb of Houghton, A World in Miniature Museum contains what is claimed to be one of the world’s top three collections of miniatures. They range from striking copies of antique furniture set in tiny rooms, to the world’s smallest teddy bear.

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A warm welcome awaits guests at Lynebank House Hotel & Restaurant. It is situated near Carlisle, just 3 minutes from junction 44 of the M6, on the A7 Edinburgh, Hawick and Galashiels scenic route. A former 17th century staging post, it offers 12 well-decorated rooms, all en suite with digital TV and WiFi access. The storage of bicycles and sports equipment is available, along with drying room facilities. The bar and restaurant are open seven days a week offering à la carte and bar menus based on fresh local produce - the kitchen is renowned for its quality local Galloway beef and fresh fish. Located close to both the Lake District and the Scottish Borders, Lynebank is an ideal base for tours to the Southern Lakes, taking in Windermere, Beatrix Potter’s Hill Top Farm, Wordsworth’s home, Hadrian’s Wall and Arthuret - the land where King Arthur and Merlin roamed. Also within a short distance of the hotel are Longtown and Brampton, with its traditional farmer’s markets and river walks, and the Scottish Border towns of Gretna Green, Annan, Langholm and the Solway coast. For other information about outdoor pursuits, fishing, shooting, equestrian, cycling and country walks, just visit the hotel’s website as given above.

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LYNEBANK HOUSE HOTEL Westlinton, Carlisle, Cumbria CA6 6AA Tel: 01228 792820 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.lynebank.com

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BEWCASTLE 14 miles NE of Carlisle off the B6318 A Castle C Bewcastle Cross

Roman legionaries assigned to the fort at what is now Bewcastle must certainly have felt that they had drawn the short straw. The fort stood all on its own, about nine miles north of Hadrian’s Wall, guarding a crossing over the Kirk Beck. The site covered around six acres and most of it is now occupied by the ruins of a Norman Castle. Most of the south wall

is still standing but little else remains and the castle is best admired for its setting rather than its architecture. A much more impressive survival dominates the village churchyard. Here stands the Bewcastle Cross, erected around AD670 and one of the oldest and finest stone crosses in Europe. Standing over 13 feet in height, its intricate Celtic carvings have survived the centuries of weathering and much of the runic inscription can still be made out in the yellow sandstone. One of the carvings, a semicircle with 13 radiating lines, three of which have crossbars, is believed to be a sophisticated sundial, which not only indicated the 12 hours of the Roman clock, but also the three ‘tides’ of the Saxon day - morning, noon and eventide.

WETHERAL 4 miles E of Carlisle off the A69 A Parish Church H Eden Benchmarks D Constantine’s Caves A Corby Castle

Wetheral stands above the River Eden, over which runs an impressive railway viaduct carrying the Tyne Valley Line, built by Francis Giles in 1830. Wetheral Parish Church lies below the village beside the river and contains a poignant sculpture by Joseph Nollekens of the dying Lady Mary Howard clasping her dead baby. Nearby, occupying a lovely riverside setting, is one of the Eden Benchmarks, a sculptured bench in St Bee’s sandstone by Tim Shutter, entitled Flight of Fancy. St Constantine was the local patron and the church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, St Constantine and St Mary. Constantine is said to have lived in caves in what are now National Trust woodlands alongside the river, a location known as Constantine’s Caves. Constantine died a martyr in AD657 and a

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church. Inside the church there’s a modern square pulpit, intricately carved with pomegranates, wheat and vines. It was carved from one half of a tree felled nearby; the other half was used to create a second pulpit, which was installed in the newly-built Liverpool Cathedral. A couple of miles east of Crosby, The Solway Aviation Museum is one of only a few museums located on a ‘live’ airfield, in this case Carlisle Airport. Opened in 1997 and run by volunteers, the museum is home to several British jet aircraft of the 1950s and 1960s, among them the mighty Vulcan and the Canberra. Other exhibits include a wartime air raid shelter where a video presentation explains the story behind the museum, displays of the Blue Streak rocket programme, testing for which took place only a few miles from here, and a very impressive engine room that houses one of Frank Whittle’s first development jet engines. Opened in 2008 and in the same year voted Cumbria’s Best Visitor Attraction, Walby Farm Park promises a satisfying day out for all the family. It boasts Cumbria’s largest indoor play area, an exciting outdoor play area, lots of farm animals and a nature trail. There’s also a café and a shop.

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WREAY 5 miles S of Carlisle off the A6 A Church of St Mary

This little village is known for its extraordinary Church of St Mary, designed and paid for by a local woman, Sarah Losh, in memory of her sister and her parents. It was built in 1835 and

incorporates many Italian Romanesque features. The church is full of beautiful touches, including the carvings, mostly by Sarah herself, on the font.

IVEGILL 8 miles S of Carlisle off the A6 or B5305 H High Head Sculpture Valley

The tiny hamlet of Ivegill, hidden away in lovely countryside south of Carlisle, boasts a unique attraction in the shape of High Head Sculpture Valley. Magnificent life-size sculptures are imaginatively displayed in a natural woodland valley; and there are changing exhibitions in the Art Gallery. Traditional, freshly prepared Cumbrian food is served in the farmhouse tearoom, and the site also contains a farm shop, Dolls’ Gallery and a children’s play area.

HIGH HEAD SCULPTURE VALLEY High Head Farm, Ivegill, Carlisle, Cumbria CA4 0PJ Tel/Fax: 01674 73552 e-mail: [email protected] website: www.highheadsculpturevalley.co.uk AN INTOXICATING mix of exciting contemporary art, relaxing spa treatments and delicious farmhouse food draw visitors from all over the world to High Head Sculpture Valley. Nestling in a tranquil, leafy valley overlooking the Lake District Fells, this unique enterprise rejuvenates mind, body and soul. Constantly changing exhibitions in the indoor art galleries display high-quality ceramics, glassware, paintings, furniture and sculptures from celebrated artists and craftsmen. Outside, in the dramatic High Head Valley, stunning life-size sculptures emerge from the undergrowth, complementing and reflecting the natural ebb and flow of nature throughout the seasons. On the horizon Cumbria’s newest stone circle evokes the area’s mysterious ancient history as its shadows trace the time of the day. The stones’ ethereal qualities are best appreciated by moonlight. Find solace in the High Head Spa with a range of health and beauty treatments that relax the mind, invigorate the body and refresh the soul. Combine your visit with a delicious lunch or high tea from the farmhouse kitchen from where you can watch High Head’s resident family of inquisitive red squirrels moving through the trees. On your way out search the Made in Cumbria crafts for that perfect gift or purchase High Head home-baking and preserves. Visit Nick B in the courtyard for bespoke childrens clothes.

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life-sized statue of him can be seen in the grounds of Corby Castle to the south of the village. The castle, with its impressive 13thcentury keep and terraced gardens overlooking the Eden, is usually open during the summer months. During the reign of William Rufus, one of his barons, Ranulph Meschin, founded a priory for Benedictine monks at Wetheral above a redrock gorge of the River Eden. All that remains now is the imposing three-storey gatehouse.

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A Church of St Michael

On 7 July 1307, the body of King Edward I was laid out in the village church; he was already a dying man when he left Carlisle to march against his old enemy, Robert the Bruce. A monument to Edward was erected on the marshes and a later monument still marks the spot. At the time of the king’s death, the Church of St Michael was already well over a century old and is possibly the earliest surviving example of a fortified church. Dating from 1181 and constructed entirely of stones from a fort on the Roman wall, the church was designed for protection against Border raids, which is why its tower has walls seven feet thick.

BOWNESS-ON-SOLWAY 14 miles W of Carlisle off the B5307 C Hadrian’s Wall E Glasson Moss National Nature Reserve

The extensive sands at Bowness, with their views across the Solway Firth to Scotland, are very popular with summer visitors and the abundant bird life here is another good reason to visit. Hadrian’s Wall continues along the Solway coast to Bowness and many of the sandstone cottages around here include stones from the wall. Some of these stones can easily be identified, such as the small inscribed altar let into a barn near the King’s Arms. The Roman fort of Maia once covered a seven-acre site, but today there is only a plaque explaining where it used to be. Bowness is sometimes said to be the end of the Wall, but, in fact, it just turned a corner here and continued south along the coast for another 40 miles.

Two miles south of the village lies Glasson Moss National Nature Reserve, a lowland raised mire extending to 93 hectares. Many species of sphagnum moss are to be found here, and the birdlife includes red grouse, curlew, sparrow hawk and snipe.

Brampton A Moot Hall G Bonnie Prince Charlie A St Martin’s Church

Nestling in the heart of the lovely Irthing Valley, Brampton is a delightful little town where the Wednesday market has been held since 1252, authorised by a charter granted by Henry III. Overlooking the Market Place is the town’s most striking building, the octagonal Moot Hall topped by a handsome clock tower. Just around the corner, in High Cross Street, is the house (now a shop) that once witnessed one of the high points in Bonnie Prince Charlie’s rebellion of 1745. It was here that the Prince stayed during the siege of Carlisle and it was here, on 17 November 1745, that the Mayor and Aldermen presented him with the keys to the city. A few months later, following the Prince’s defeat, six of his supporters were hanged on the Capon Tree on the south side of the town and in sight of the Scottish hills. The tree survived until the 20th century and in its place there now stands a monument commemorating the doleful event. Just off the Market Place is St Martin’s Church, which was built anew in 1874 and contains one of the best kept secrets of the area - some magnificent stained glass windows designed by one of the founder members of the pre-Raphaelite brotherhood, Edward Burne-Jones. It was a fellow member of the

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BURGH BY SANDS 5 miles W of Carlisle off the B5307

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Around Brampton LOW ROW 3 miles E of Brampton off the A69 A Lanercost Priory A Naworth Castle

Within easy reach of the town is Hadrian’s Wall, just three miles to the north. If you’ve ever wondered where the Wall’s missing masonry went to, look no further than the fabric of Lanercost Priory (English Heritage). An impressive red sandstone ruin

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brotherhood, Philip Webb, William Morris’s associate, who designed the church and insisted that contemporary stained glass should be installed. The area around Brampton had good reason to be grateful to the Dacres of Naworth, who as Wardens of the Northern Marches protected it against marauding Scots. Lanercost Priory, However, the townspeople of Brampton in Victorian times must have had mixed feelings about a later descendant, Rosalind, wife of the 9th Earl of Carlisle. An enthusiastic supporter of total abstinence, she contrived to get most of the small town’s 40 public houses and drinking rooms closed. South of Brampton are Gelt Woods, lying in a deep sandstone ravine carved by the fastflowing River Gelt. By the river is an inscribed rock called Written Rock, which is thought to have been carved by a Roman standard bearer in AD207.

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Low Row

set in secluded woodland, the priory was founded in 1166 by Robert de Vaux. Lanercost is well preserved and its scale is a reminder that it was a grand complex in its heyday. However, the priory suffered greatly in the border raids of the 13th and 14th centuries. One such raid is known to have been led by William Wallace, an early campaigner for Scottish independence from English rule. When the Priory was closed in 1536, the sandstone blocks were recycled once again for houses in the town. But much of the Priory’s great north aisle remains intact, set in a romantic and hauntingly beautiful position in the valley of the River Irthing. The Priory is well signposted and lies only three miles off the A69 (leave at Brampton). Also most impressive is Naworth Castle, built around 1335 in its present form by Lord Dacre as an important border stronghold. The castle’s supreme glory is the Great Hall, hung with French tapestries and guarded by four unique heraldic beasts holding aloft their family pennants. The Long Gallery extends for 116 feet and was used as a guardroom.

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C Hadrian’s Wall C Birdoswald Roman Fort C Popping Stone

Hadrian’s Wall was built between AD122 and AD128 as a great military barrier across the narrowest part of Britain, from the mouth of the River Tyne in the east, to Bowness-on-Solway in the west. The wall was finally abandoned in the late 4th century, and in later centuries many of the stones were used for local buildings and field walls. There are many ways of exploring the Wall (including the bus number AD122!), and for those with the energy to walk from end to end, the newly-opened Hadrian’s Wall National Trail passes some of the country’s greatest archaeological monuments. Located in one of the most picturesque settings along the whole length of Hadrian’s Wall, and overlooking the River Irthing, Birdoswald Roman Fort is one of the best preserved mile-castles along the Wall and unique in that all the components of the Roman frontier system can be found here. Set high on a plateau with magnificent views over the surrounding countryside, the early turf wall, built in AD122, can be seen along with the fort. Originally, this fort would have covered five acres and it may have been the base for up to 500 cavalry and 1000 foot soldiers.

Gilsland village is also known for its sulphur spring and there was once a convalescent home for miners and shipyard workers here. It is now owned by the Cooperative Society and people still drink the waters as a cure for arthritis and rheumatism. Near the spring is the Popping Stone, traditionally the place where a man ‘popped the question’ to his lover. It was here that Sir Walter Scott successfully popped the question to Charlotte Carpenter.

TALKIN 2 miles S of Brampton off the B6413 D Talkin Tarn

Talkin Tarn, now the focus of a 120-acre country park, has been a popular place for watersports for more than 100 years. Glacial in origin, the Tarn was formed some 10,000 years ago and is continually replenished by underground springs. Modern day visitors can sail, windsurf, canoe or hire one of the original wooden rowing boats. Talkin Tarn Rowing Club has been rowing on the tarn for 130 years and holds its annual regatta in July. Fishing licences are available, and there’s a nature trail and an orienteering course, a play area for children under eight, a tea room and a gift shop; guided walks with a warden are also available for organised groups.

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GILSLAND 7 miles E of Brampton on the B6318

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ACCOMMODATION, FOOD AND DRINK

Stanley House, Eskdale

Beaumont House, Windermere

pg 20

Sunnyside Guest House, Keswick

pg 43

Tufton Arms Hotel, Appleby-in-Westmorland

The Blacksmith’s Arms, Broughton Mills, Broughton-in-Furness The Brown Horse Inn, Winster, Bowness-on-Windermere

pg 26

The Country Coffee Shop, Penrith

pg 83

Dower House Accomodation, Duddon Bridge, Broughton-in-Furness pg 43 East View Guest House, Carlisle

pg 109

Steele’s Mill, Kings Meaburn, Penrith

pg 54 pg 106 pg 76 pg 102

The Watermill, Little Salkeld, Penrith

pg 88

Wilf ’s Cafe, Staveley, Kendal

pg 15

ACTIVITIES Hay Close Tea Rooms, Calthwaite, Penrith

pg 98

High Head Sculpture Valley, Ivegill, Carlisle pg 114

Hawkshead Tourist Information, Shop & Gallery, Hawkshead pg 50

Kendal Upholstery & Home Accessories, Kendal

Hay Close Tea Rooms, Calthwaite, Penrith

Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway, Haverthwaite, Ulverston

pg 38

Reticule Creative Crafts, Kendal

pg 12

pg 98

High Head Sculpture Valley, Ivegill, Carlisle pg 114

pg 12

High Wray Farm B&B and Cottage, High Wray, Ambleside

pg 52

ANTIQUES AND RESTORATION

Holly-Wood Guest House, Windermere

pg 21

Staveley Antiques & Lakeland Period Bedsteads, Staveley, Kendal pg 15

Kitridding Farm Shop, Tearoom and Gift Shop, Old Town, Kirkby Lonsdale pg 8

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Lakeland Hideaway Cottages, Hawkshead

pg 48

Lancrigg Vegetarian Country House Hotel, Easedale,Grasmere

Cockermouth Art & Craft, Cockermouth

pg 65

pg 31

Gatefoot Gallery, Staveley, Kendal

pg 16

Laurel Cottage, Windermere

pg 21

The Gem Den, Penrith

pg 85

pg 90

Hawkshead Tourist Information, Shop & Gallery, Hawkshead pg 50

Lynebank House Hotel, Westlinton, Carlisle pg 112

High Head Sculpture Valley, Ivegill, Carlisle pg 114

Merienda, Cockermouth

Kendal Upholstery & Home Accessories, Kendal

Lovelady Shield Country House Hotel, Alston

Merienda at Treasury Court, Carlisle

pg 66 pg 108

pg 12

Muncaster Country Guest House, Muncaster, Ravenglass pg 55

Kitridding Farm Shop, Tearoom and Gift Shop, Old Town, Kirkby Lonsdale pg 8

Nouschka Shoes, Ulverston

Millstones Barn Food Shop and Gifts, Bootle, Millom pg 57

pg 36

Old School Tea Room, Tebay

pg 95

The Queens Head, Askham, Penrith

pg 92

Queens Head Hotel, Townhead, Troutbeck

pg 22

Sawrey House Country House Hotel, Near Sawrey, Hawkshead

pg 51

The Square Cafe and B&B, Broughton-in-Furness

Reticule Creative Crafts, Kendal

pg 12

The Wood Workshop, Penrith

pg 84

FASHIONS Abrahams Classic Clothing, Kirkby Lonsdale Adlib, Penrith pg 42

Carlisle World Shop, Carlisle

pg 7 pg 84 pg 108

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ADVERTISERS AND PLACES OF INTEREST

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Hawkshead Tourist Information, Shop & Gallery, Hawkshead pg 50

JEWELLERY

High Head Sculpture Valley, Ivegill, Carlisle pg 114

Carlisle World Shop, Carlisle

Hollberrie, Appleby-in-Westmorland

pg 103

Cockermouth Art & Craft, Cockermouth

pg 65

K70 - Ooh-La-La!, Kirkby Lonsdale

pg 6

The Gem Den, Penrith

pg 85 pg 36

Adlib, Penrith

K70 - Ooh-La-La!, Kendal

pg 10

Phoebe, Ulverston

Nouschka Shoes, Ulverston

pg 36

Phoebe, Ulverston

pg 36

Sienna Contemporary Jewellery, Kirkby Lonsdale

Two By Two, Ulverston

pg 37

GIFTWARE Carlisle World Shop, Carlisle

pg 5

PLACES OF INTEREST The Beacon, Whitehaven

pg 108

pg 84 pg 108

pg 60

Hawkshead Tourist Information, Shop & Gallery, Hawkshead pg 50

The Corner Shop, Penrith

pg 86

Forget Me Not Home Interiors & Gifts, Windermere

pg 19

High Head Sculpture Valley, Ivegill, Carlisle pg 114

The Gem Den, Penrith

pg 85

Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway,

Hay Close Tea Rooms, Calthwaite, Penrith

pg 98

Hawkshead Tourist Information, Shop & Gallery, Hawkshead pg 50

Haverthwaite, Ulverston

pg 38

Muncaster Castle, Muncaster, Ravenglass

pg 56

Hollberrie, Appleby-in-Westmorland

pg 103

Ruskin - The Museum, Coniston

pg 47

K70 - Ooh-La-La!, Kirkby Lonsdale

pg 6

The Watermill, Little Salkeld, Penrith

pg 88

K70 - Ooh-La-La!, Kendal

pg 10

Kitridding Farm Shop, Tearoom and Gift Shop, Old Town, Kirkby Lonsdale pg 8

SPECIALIST FOOD AND DRINK SHOPS

Millstones Barn Food Shop and Gifts, Bootle, Millom

Carlisle World Shop, Carlisle pg 57

Churchmouse Cheeses, Kirkby Lonsdale

Nouschka Shoes, Ulverston

pg 36

The Corner Shop, Penrith

HOME AND GARDEN Carlisle World Shop, Carlisle Forget Me Not Home Interiors & Gifts, Windermere

pg 108 pg 19

High Head Sculpture Valley, Ivegill, Carlisle pg 114 Hollberrie, Appleby-in-Westmorland Kendal Upholstery & Home Accessories, Kendal

pg 103 pg 12

Millstones Barn Food Shop and Gifts, Bootle, Millom pg 57 Reticule Creative Crafts, Kendal

pg 12

The Wood Workshop, Penrith

pg 84

pg 108 pg 6 pg 86

Hawkshead Brewery, Staveley, Kendal

pg 15

Hawkshead Relish Company, Hawkshead

pg 49

High Head Sculpture Valley, Ivegill, Carlisle pg 114 Kan Health Foods, Kendal

pg 12

Kendal Fisheries, Kendal

pg 11

Kitridding Farm Shop, Tearoom and Gift Shop, Old Town, Kirkby Lonsdale pg 8 Marsdens The Butchers, Kendal

pg 12

Millstones Barn Food Shop and Gifts, Bootle, Millom

pg 57

Richardsons Family Butchers, Bowness-on-Windermere

pg 25

The Watermill, Little Salkeld, Penrith

pg 88

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www.findsomewhere.co.uk A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks